34/35 shift and throttle cables
- Thread starter Sefuller
- Start date
Sorry Scott but I don't know and the information is not in the manual but the lengths should I think be embossed on the ends. Worse case scenario you may have to remove the cable and measure them. Have the saddle clamps been adjusted too tight?
I replaced mine a couple years ago. The lengths are marked on the cables jackets. They are Teleflex cables and there is a minimum radius specified for the cable to bend around corners. One of my OEM cables was too tight a radius so I went up a size on length. It's a bit of work pulling the pedestal apart to get the cables in and out. You need to loosen the steering cables at the quadrant, take off the compass, etc. I had a frozen screw in the pedestal housing, very long screw with a slotted head, couldn't budge it, tried PB blaster and no luck. I finally cut the head of the screw off with an oscillating tool. Once the housing was off I used more PB let it sit and kept working it back and forth with vice grips on the shank. After many expletives I got it to break loose. I bought long hex head bolts to replace the screws and used never seize on the threads. That way next time I can use a socket and ratchet wrench to get them out. Steel screw in aluminum housing is bad without a helicoil insert and no zinc chromate primer. You will need to take the chain off the sprocket, and unbolt the clamp on the pedestal a small nut below the wheel, that holds the cables inside the pedestal. I think I pulled out the shifter and throttle levers and cleaned and greased everything while at it. I might have pulled out the shaft for the wheel and chain sprocket not sure if I remember but I know I greased the chain. Sounds harder than it is. Most of my time was spent on that one frozen screw. Otherwise it's maybe a couple hour job. There is a little clamp on the throttle cable jacket that provides friction so the throttle setting stays steady you'll need to use that on the new one. Good luck.
Thanks guys - I will look at the jackets today. I had the pedestal off a couple years ago to re-core the sole around it - I wish I had done it then but they seem to have gotten a little worse since then. @njlarry , here in the salt-free Great Lakes we don't seem to have as many issues with the frozen bolts - was there a noticeable difference after you replaced them?
@jibes138 I saw this posted somewhere else and immediately thought of you with your cracked housing. Unfortunately, I realize I am too late with this helpful suggestion
@jibes138 I saw this posted somewhere else and immediately thought of you with your cracked housing. Unfortunately, I realize I am too late with this helpful suggestion
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Wow, that should be an encyclopedia picture for "repair."
Getting off track, after pulling it all apart there is a pad on the side of the engine just forward of the flange for the bell housing that has 4 tapped holes that are unused. It looks like a motor mount could be machined to mount on that pad instead of the using the aluminum bell housing. It would be a hell of a lot stronger and similar to how the front mounts are attached. I just noticed yesterday the flange on the other side might also have a crack starting. I'll have to look with a magnifying glass probably overstressed when the port side failed.
Getting off track, after pulling it all apart there is a pad on the side of the engine just forward of the flange for the bell housing that has 4 tapped holes that are unused. It looks like a motor mount could be machined to mount on that pad instead of the using the aluminum bell housing. It would be a hell of a lot stronger and similar to how the front mounts are attached. I just noticed yesterday the flange on the other side might also have a crack starting. I'll have to look with a magnifying glass probably overstressed when the port side failed.
Jibes thank you for all the great advice.
Scott that cracked housing repair looks like something the po of my 34 would have done. ..lol.
Edson, Jamestown and Wayne Canning all have some helpful you tube videos on pedistal care. I think they recommend Super Lube for the wheel shaft roller bearings and 30 wt motor oil for the chain and idler wheels but I use wd40 cause it's easier to apply and I keep it onboard.
Scott that cracked housing repair looks like something the po of my 34 would have done. ..lol.
Edson, Jamestown and Wayne Canning all have some helpful you tube videos on pedistal care. I think they recommend Super Lube for the wheel shaft roller bearings and 30 wt motor oil for the chain and idler wheels but I use wd40 cause it's easier to apply and I keep it onboard.
I replaced my cables because the sheath had cracked open and the cable inside was rusting, they were still working fine but looked like a failure could occur at any time. I wonder if you just squirted some thin penetrating oil like 3 in 1 or even WD40 in the cable and worked it for a while it might loosen it up and save you the work. Remove the attachments at each end so you can really move the cable back and forth to work the oil the length of the sheath? Unless it is corrosion of the cable the change in performance is likely the lubricant in there is solidifying with age.
I just did what jibes138 describes on my 35 and it worked quite well. both cables were "sticky" and after much lube and working them they are both pretty smooth. Eventually the cables will be replaced but they seem to have a bit more life in them at least.
Jibes has given you great information....spot on....we had to replace the cable on our 272 LE and spoke with an
Edson Customer Service Rep before beginning...mostly to find the correct cable length, but the fellow at Edson
was not positive of the correct length, etc. so he sent us several so we would have what we needed and we returned the extras and were credited.....Everthing Jibe's mentions is correct...and luckily, we were warned as well
by the Edson Rep........Good luck!...Ours was about a 2-3 hour procedure..and I made sure I had good, smart help
(smarter than me) which saved the day......Patrick
Edson Customer Service Rep before beginning...mostly to find the correct cable length, but the fellow at Edson
was not positive of the correct length, etc. so he sent us several so we would have what we needed and we returned the extras and were credited.....Everthing Jibe's mentions is correct...and luckily, we were warned as well
by the Edson Rep........Good luck!...Ours was about a 2-3 hour procedure..and I made sure I had good, smart help
(smarter than me) which saved the day......Patrick