I still have that original Gray Marine forward hatch on my 86 O'Day 222 and I get a tiny leak that comes in between the laxan that I installed and the cover. I take my Dremel tool and grind the groove between the frame and the edge of the lexan in the cover and apply a thin bead of Dow Corning 795 black caulking. It seems to be dry right now. I'm really not sure if the Butyl tape would work for this.I have tried all kinds of solutions (recaulked 3 times, added gasket, etc.) but still I get water coming down the inside front plastic molding on the inside of both hatches. Anyone have this problem and fixed it?
AMAZING GRACE
I like that Butyl Rubber. It's easy to work with and it's not messy like the DC 795 and the 3-M products. I just used the Butyl Rubber on my bow stem chain plate and also under my tabernacle just today.What did you recaulk with? I used butyl rubber on my forward hatch. I haven't even secured it with bolts yet and it has been bone dry for over a month. I'm planning on securing it next time it's out
- - - - - - // - - - - -I like that Butyl Rubber. It's easy to work with and it's not messy like the DC 795 and the 3-M products. I just used the Butyl Rubber on my bow stem chain plate and also under my tabernacle just today.
I just checked inside my cabin a little while ago after a heavy rain storm and it's dry as a bone in there.
I had read that thread that Main Sail posted in the Mac forum and I'm sold on the bedding techniques that he talked about and demonstrated with the pics. Countersinking the bolt holes really makes sense to me. I like that fact that I can bed the hardware with the Butyl rubber and tighten it right down, rather than having to wait a day for other caulking to set up. I want to do the job and just get it done, and that's exactly what I did these past two days.
Joe
I don't think I'll be using 3-M 5200 again. It's a real bare to remove hardware that was adhered with that stuff. I've always been able to do it, but the time wasted is better used on something else that needs to be done. I'll use the 3-M 4200, DC 795, and the Butyl Tape depending on the hardware.- - - - - - // - - - - -
Leaks on boats...
I have concluded that there is no 100 percent cure. One cure works well then does not the next time. Bytyl rubber has a good sucess rate when used according to instruction. It is a two part process to achieve good results.
I have not used DC 795, but have read on this forum and others of its good sucess rate.
I like a product called NP 1. It is not made for marine industry but for roofers. It comes in a variety of colors. I have used it for several years now and it has worked well on thru hulls above water. No experience on thru hulls below water level. I will stick to 4200 for that.
I will no longer use 5200. Repairs never last forever and after several years try to fix something that 5200 was used on.
Silicone types have an issue. Yes, they may work the first time, but chemically they get into the surface of gelcoat or fiberglass and after their initial use it is damn near impossible to get a good seal. If silicone blends were ever used, you need to sand off the surface to get a good seal. Many of the popular sealants are urethane silicone blends. Read the ingredients carefully.
This subject is oft discussed on sailing forums. Build a library and understanding of the various products used and diligently follow the manufacturers recommendations for good results.
Ed K
O26 and Liberty 28