I am getting water into the starboard lazaret of my 1997 hunter 310. I believe it is getting in around the bolts that attach the fiberglass arch and want to reseal the base of the arch. Has anyone had to do this and if so what kind of calking was used? Any other words of wisdom would be appreciated.
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Conduit
Jerry thanks for your responce. Did you put in the conduit? Did you use any other calking on the remaining area?
Jerry thanks for your responce. Did you put in the conduit? Did you use any other calking on the remaining area?
More Arch
Jerry My wife and I have done some extensive cruising on our 310 at with the longest time six months. The farthest we have been is Georgetown in the Bahamas. Back to the arch. Over the years, I have added speakers, GPS, and Navtex unit to the arch with wires run through the port arch base and a radar detector with the lead through the starbord base. Each wire had it's own hole. Now is the time to bite the bullet, remove the arch, add a conduit and rebed the base. Your water collection system sounds interesting. How will you run it to the water tank?
Jerry My wife and I have done some extensive cruising on our 310 at with the longest time six months. The farthest we have been is Georgetown in the Bahamas. Back to the arch. Over the years, I have added speakers, GPS, and Navtex unit to the arch with wires run through the port arch base and a radar detector with the lead through the starbord base. Each wire had it's own hole. Now is the time to bite the bullet, remove the arch, add a conduit and rebed the base. Your water collection system sounds interesting. How will you run it to the water tank?
Sea Berth
Jerry One of the advantages of being retired is having a lot of time. The longest run we have made was a little over 24 hours. At night, we do 3 hour watches. For sleeping, we usually go into the aft cabin. A few pillows will keep you from rolling around, but if we are motor sailing it can be noisy. If the weather is bad, I am usually at the helm. I have thought of making the port salon into a sea berth, so I would be able to get on deck faster if there was a problem, but as I said it has not been a problem. So you added another water tank. I am not familiar with a Todd tank, does the added weight on the starboard side cause a heel? I would not worry about filtering. Most cruisers just dump the initial rain water. To filter out the salt would take a high pressure pump such as in an RO system. Sounds like you did a lot of planning for your plumbing project. Your last thread ended with "What preparations", were you cut off?
Jerry One of the advantages of being retired is having a lot of time. The longest run we have made was a little over 24 hours. At night, we do 3 hour watches. For sleeping, we usually go into the aft cabin. A few pillows will keep you from rolling around, but if we are motor sailing it can be noisy. If the weather is bad, I am usually at the helm. I have thought of making the port salon into a sea berth, so I would be able to get on deck faster if there was a problem, but as I said it has not been a problem. So you added another water tank. I am not familiar with a Todd tank, does the added weight on the starboard side cause a heel? I would not worry about filtering. Most cruisers just dump the initial rain water. To filter out the salt would take a high pressure pump such as in an RO system. Sounds like you did a lot of planning for your plumbing project. Your last thread ended with "What preparations", were you cut off?
Preparations
Jerry, The preparations depend on where and how long you will be cruising. My first cruising with the 310 was on Lake Ontario, followed by sailing it to Florida, and then the Bahamas. Over the years I have added; refrigeration, GPS, Radar Detector, Navtex Receiver, Wind Generator, High Amp Alternator, and two banks of 6 volt batteries. The last addition was an RO water maker. I am thinking of adding solar panels if and when I can find the kind I want. If you are going offshore, you want to carry a good supply of common spare parts like belts, filters, wire, fuses, screws, nuts and bolts, etc. I also have a good set of metric and american tools. When I have to buy o-rings, gaskets, etc, I always buy a spare. Now that the boat is getting older, I am thinking about a spare fresh water punp and macerator. It is impossible to back up every thing, but parts in the islands are hard to get and expensive. Finally, make sure everything is in top shape before you start and get a good engine manual. The more self sufficient you are the better. Oops almost for got spare line, sail tape, thread and needles. Hope this helps.
Jerry, The preparations depend on where and how long you will be cruising. My first cruising with the 310 was on Lake Ontario, followed by sailing it to Florida, and then the Bahamas. Over the years I have added; refrigeration, GPS, Radar Detector, Navtex Receiver, Wind Generator, High Amp Alternator, and two banks of 6 volt batteries. The last addition was an RO water maker. I am thinking of adding solar panels if and when I can find the kind I want. If you are going offshore, you want to carry a good supply of common spare parts like belts, filters, wire, fuses, screws, nuts and bolts, etc. I also have a good set of metric and american tools. When I have to buy o-rings, gaskets, etc, I always buy a spare. Now that the boat is getting older, I am thinking about a spare fresh water punp and macerator. It is impossible to back up every thing, but parts in the islands are hard to get and expensive. Finally, make sure everything is in top shape before you start and get a good engine manual. The more self sufficient you are the better. Oops almost for got spare line, sail tape, thread and needles. Hope this helps.
H310 seaworthiness modifications
I used to have an H310 (1999), and enjoyed her. However, as you no doubt know, she had a few Hunter cost-saving short-cuts in her. If you haven't already done so, be sure to add gasketing and hold-down latches to your cockpit lockers, which can otherwise provide a direct path for downflooding into your cabin if you ever get pooped. (Been there - done that.) You can use stick-on weather seal that's at least 1/4" thick (3/8" is better, or 1/2" if soft material) and the same rubber draw-latches that are on your lazarette covers. One source is McMaster-Carr part number 1070A81 Rubber draw-latch (mfrd. by Southco) 1-63/64" reach and 4-5/32" length $10.93, each. (Obviously, not keeping at least the bottom two drop-boards in the companionway when in rough conditions makes concerns about locker sealing secondary, given the 310's lack of a brdige deck.) You should also add grab-rails on each side of your coach-roof, even though I assume that you have jacklines you can rig and harness/tether sets for rough seas. Good luck.
I used to have an H310 (1999), and enjoyed her. However, as you no doubt know, she had a few Hunter cost-saving short-cuts in her. If you haven't already done so, be sure to add gasketing and hold-down latches to your cockpit lockers, which can otherwise provide a direct path for downflooding into your cabin if you ever get pooped. (Been there - done that.) You can use stick-on weather seal that's at least 1/4" thick (3/8" is better, or 1/2" if soft material) and the same rubber draw-latches that are on your lazarette covers. One source is McMaster-Carr part number 1070A81 Rubber draw-latch (mfrd. by Southco) 1-63/64" reach and 4-5/32" length $10.93, each. (Obviously, not keeping at least the bottom two drop-boards in the companionway when in rough conditions makes concerns about locker sealing secondary, given the 310's lack of a brdige deck.) You should also add grab-rails on each side of your coach-roof, even though I assume that you have jacklines you can rig and harness/tether sets for rough seas. Good luck.
Add-on
Jerry, Sounds like a good plan. You will want to be way South during the hurricane season. I designed the RO system using various sources and purchased the parts from suppliers. It is located under the v-berth in front of the water tank. One set of 6 volt batteries are in the compartment under the swim platform. The other two are located in the rear starboard cockpit compartment where I also have an inverter. I was a little worried about heal, but it didn't seem to affect it. I do not have radar and probably will not add it, but it is nice. I helped a friend bring his Gulfstar back from the Bahamas to Gulfport, Miss. and he had radar. The radar helped us avoid big boats and thunder storms at night and find our way into an anchorage after we broke down. Unfortunately, Katrina destroyed the boat. I had thought about putting a generator on the boat, but could not come up with a good place for it. I net a couple with a 30 Catalina that had a small diesel generator and all electric cooking. Single side band is a good option if you are going below the Turks, but I decided not to add one because of the power requirements. Most people use their aftstay, but I don't see why a shroud would not work as well. As for water line, I have moved mine up two inches and we are right there when the boat is provisioned.
Jerry, Sounds like a good plan. You will want to be way South during the hurricane season. I designed the RO system using various sources and purchased the parts from suppliers. It is located under the v-berth in front of the water tank. One set of 6 volt batteries are in the compartment under the swim platform. The other two are located in the rear starboard cockpit compartment where I also have an inverter. I was a little worried about heal, but it didn't seem to affect it. I do not have radar and probably will not add it, but it is nice. I helped a friend bring his Gulfstar back from the Bahamas to Gulfport, Miss. and he had radar. The radar helped us avoid big boats and thunder storms at night and find our way into an anchorage after we broke down. Unfortunately, Katrina destroyed the boat. I had thought about putting a generator on the boat, but could not come up with a good place for it. I net a couple with a 30 Catalina that had a small diesel generator and all electric cooking. Single side band is a good option if you are going below the Turks, but I decided not to add one because of the power requirements. Most people use their aftstay, but I don't see why a shroud would not work as well. As for water line, I have moved mine up two inches and we are right there when the boat is provisioned.
H310 seaworthiness modifications (2)
Jerry, It certainly sounds like you've given the level of forethought appropriate to your intended use of the 310, and have most blue water preparation issues well in-hand. I too use the Mustang combo harnesses. For jacklines, I use New England Ropes "Sta-Set" double braid of the same size as my sheets. It gives me spare sheetline, and is easily tensioned between the stern and bow cleats on my present boat (H36). But, with the H310, I had to add a pair of fore-and-aft oriented cleats on the inside wall of the cockpit coaming in order to get good jackline alignment with the edges.of the cabin top. Since I had added a pair of Lewmar ST30 spinnaker winches on the pre-provided coaming mounting pads, I placed the cleats just below those winches (which I used as my jibsheet winches for singlehanding). That put sufficient jackline inside the cockpit to allow clipping-on before leaving the cockpit, while not reducing available seatback area. (I use more Sta-Set between a Wichard safety hook and a snap-shackle with lanyard for each of my tethers, allowing me to customize their lengths for the actual placement of the jackline. That ensures a sufficiently short tether to prevent my going over the lifelines while still reaching the mast/boom.) I understand your Admiral's concerns. On each side of the coachroof I added a six-foot length of 1" SS tubing through 2 SS railmounts with one more matching mount at each end. The resulting quadruple-supported grabrails, along with wire diamond-lattice lashings on the lifelines, made mine much more comfortable. I've dodged the issue of storm shutters for those big "windshield" deadlights by lashing my inverted fibreglass nesting dinghy over them and assuming that provided some degree of green water-diverting cover. Your solution sounds much more seaman-like.
Jerry, It certainly sounds like you've given the level of forethought appropriate to your intended use of the 310, and have most blue water preparation issues well in-hand. I too use the Mustang combo harnesses. For jacklines, I use New England Ropes "Sta-Set" double braid of the same size as my sheets. It gives me spare sheetline, and is easily tensioned between the stern and bow cleats on my present boat (H36). But, with the H310, I had to add a pair of fore-and-aft oriented cleats on the inside wall of the cockpit coaming in order to get good jackline alignment with the edges.of the cabin top. Since I had added a pair of Lewmar ST30 spinnaker winches on the pre-provided coaming mounting pads, I placed the cleats just below those winches (which I used as my jibsheet winches for singlehanding). That put sufficient jackline inside the cockpit to allow clipping-on before leaving the cockpit, while not reducing available seatback area. (I use more Sta-Set between a Wichard safety hook and a snap-shackle with lanyard for each of my tethers, allowing me to customize their lengths for the actual placement of the jackline. That ensures a sufficiently short tether to prevent my going over the lifelines while still reaching the mast/boom.) I understand your Admiral's concerns. On each side of the coachroof I added a six-foot length of 1" SS tubing through 2 SS railmounts with one more matching mount at each end. The resulting quadruple-supported grabrails, along with wire diamond-lattice lashings on the lifelines, made mine much more comfortable. I've dodged the issue of storm shutters for those big "windshield" deadlights by lashing my inverted fibreglass nesting dinghy over them and assuming that provided some degree of green water-diverting cover. Your solution sounds much more seaman-like.
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