I searched the forums and could not find the answer to this question. I have C22 with one battery for lights and a stereo. My motor starts with a pull cord and does not have an alternator. I like this simple arrangement. When at the dock I have access to 30 amp power. I would like to convert the 30 amp to 110 in order to run a basic power strip for my radio, coffee maker, battery charger, etc. I've seen adapter to take 110 to 30 amp, but not the reverse. Can it be done? If so, how?
30 amp to 110 power strip
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The very first thing you need is to learn the difference between "volts" and "amperes". I shall leave it to others to attempt that effort .
OK Ross is exactly correct but what you want is a 30 amp to 15 amp adaptor. They are available in most marine stores. Made by Marinco part number is 81a, http://www.marinco.com/product/one-piece-adapter1520-amp-straight-blade-30-amp-locking adapts the 110 volt 30 amp shore power to 110 volt 15 amp plug then all you will need is a power cord to boat (heavy duty extension cord) to your power strip. without getting technical your dock power is already 110 volts and you need to reduce the amperage. Be aware 15 amp is not a lot of power and may very well not operate everything you plan on at least not at the same time. they also make a 30 amp to 15 amp adaptor with ground fault ( NOT SURE ON PART NUMBER)http://www.marinco.com/product/dockside-30a-15a-adapter-ground-fault-protection that might be a better idea with the ground fault as you will be using it on a boat. Another adapator that will work part number 105a http://www.marinco.com/product/pigtail-adapter-15-amp-straight-blade-30-amp-locking (photos/link courtesy of Marinco web site)
Pete - thanks. Your answer was helpful.
Ross - not so much. I tried to keep the question simple - 30 amp plug on the boat and and 110 plug on the boat. It seemed to work for Pete.
Ross - not so much. I tried to keep the question simple - 30 amp plug on the boat and and 110 plug on the boat. It seemed to work for Pete.
As I understand your problem, you need an adapter that will allow you to connect a standard extension cord to the 30amp outlet on the dock. Is that what you need?
If you're going to do this... I would highly recommend that you install a proper shore power system. This will be far safer for you and your boat, and if you ever sell the boat, it would add value to it. Using pigtails is not a really good idea, especially for longer periods of time, since pigtails are more likely to become disconnected than a proper shorepower cable
The shorepower system would include:
This is really the safest way to do this. One reason not to use a 30-amp to 15-amp pigtail, is that the 15-amp section will not be properly protected, since a 15-amp pigtail will probably catch fire before it blows a 30-amp breaker.
The shorepower system would include:
A 30 amp shore cable
A 30 amp shore power inlet
A shorepower panel with a double 30 Amp breaker for the main shore power inlet, and breakers for each circuit.
The outlets should be GFCI protected.A 30 amp shore power inlet
A shorepower panel with a double 30 Amp breaker for the main shore power inlet, and breakers for each circuit.
This is really the safest way to do this. One reason not to use a 30-amp to 15-amp pigtail, is that the 15-amp section will not be properly protected, since a 15-amp pigtail will probably catch fire before it blows a 30-amp breaker.
Most marinas (like mine) will not allow a 110/15 or 20-amp capacity extension cord to be plugged into a 30- amp outlet. That's a fire waiting to happen. Nor will it allow an extension cord to plug in to the shoreside power head 110/15-amp outlet and run into the boat unless the owner is there using it. We can't leave it there like you would a 30-amp shore power system..
Geez, KISS
30 Amp IS 110 Volts.
Just get an adapter depending on what you have on your boat. A C22 usually doesn't have shorepower wired inside the boat. You're lookin' at an extension cord or something more complicated as SD mentioned. On our C25 the PO put a household fuse box -- so I don't recommend that. If you have NO 110 wiring in the boat, run the 30A yellow shorepower cord to inside your boat and get an adpater to plug your appliances into. Usually one at a time - don't overhload the circuit. Read up on boat elecvtrical wiring basics -- try www.boatus.com.
Easy
30 Amp IS 110 Volts.
Just get an adapter depending on what you have on your boat. A C22 usually doesn't have shorepower wired inside the boat. You're lookin' at an extension cord or something more complicated as SD mentioned. On our C25 the PO put a household fuse box -- so I don't recommend that. If you have NO 110 wiring in the boat, run the 30A yellow shorepower cord to inside your boat and get an adpater to plug your appliances into. Usually one at a time - don't overhload the circuit. Read up on boat elecvtrical wiring basics -- try www.boatus.com.
Easy
Breaker Needed
You really need a 15amp breaker in there some where prior to dropping the wire gauge and using a power strip. There is a reason those big yellow wires are so big. Your ability to over load the wire and strip are quite high without a 15amp breaker or fuse. Things could easily get way to exciting if you don't put in the proper protection.
You really need a 15amp breaker in there some where prior to dropping the wire gauge and using a power strip. There is a reason those big yellow wires are so big. Your ability to over load the wire and strip are quite high without a 15amp breaker or fuse. Things could easily get way to exciting if you don't put in the proper protection.
I believe that there are powerstrips available with fuses built in. Be sure to get one of those. I installed a GFI outlet in a plastic junction box with a short pig tail for use in the boat yard where the outlets were not GFI protected. Those two items should make a workable system for a minimalist system in a boat without installed AC wiring.
The GFI box has been useful in all sorts of situations. I plug it into an Marinco adapter at the marina when I want to use power tools without running power through the boat. I used to use a boat yard that only had standard power outlets at the dock for workmen. I put a shorepower connection plug on an extension cord and plugged that into the same box. You do have to be careful about how much you run though. You could also put a 15 amp fuse in the same kind of box.
From the apparent knowledge level of the OP, they probably shouldn't be making electrical boxes but most good hardware stores could help them out or they could have a household electrician make it up.
NCNOVICECOUPLE, there are some good ideas posted here but if you take a combination of them and put a system together you will be OK. I like Rodger's idea about a power strip with a 15 amp breaker (will prevent overloads) and I like Stu's idea about running a 30 amp power cord from the dock to inside the boat then use an adaptor to power strip. I also like the idea of a ground fault being built in to the adaptor. In a perfect world it would be nice to have true shore power in the boat but given the size boat and value it becomes a luxury. For a "minimalist" user that set up will be fine and not cost more then $150. I think what everyone its trying to say here is you need to be cautious using any type of electricity around a boat as the obvious is electricity and water are are deadly combination HOWEVER with a little common sense you can get what you want.
Thanks everyone
This was alll very helpful. Thanks. I plan to use the suggestion of a 30 amp shorepower cord to the inside of the boat, then an adapter, then a power strip with 15 amp circuit breaker. The power will not be connected when I'm not at the boat and I will generally only be running a battery charger, coffee maker or radio (not all at once). Thanks again.
This was alll very helpful. Thanks. I plan to use the suggestion of a 30 amp shorepower cord to the inside of the boat, then an adapter, then a power strip with 15 amp circuit breaker. The power will not be connected when I'm not at the boat and I will generally only be running a battery charger, coffee maker or radio (not all at once). Thanks again.
Please, don't forget the GFI box. There are grounds all over a boat and it's damp. You can make up the box for under 20 bucks. It isn't rocket science and it could save your life. You can also sometimes find GFI boxes that plug directly into a non-GRI outlet and they can be used with extension cords. I used to have one but made up my pigtail box because I had the parts lying around and it works better in many situations as I can tie the cord to hold it in the outlet.
I believe if you use this adaptor it will cover the ground fault issue. What do you think Rodger ?? As I understand it a GFI at the beginning of a run will protect everything down-wire from it . May want to get some of the child proof caps to plug any unused receptacle on the adadptor
http://www.marinco.com/product/dockside-30a-15a-adapter-ground-fault-protection
http://www.marinco.com/product/dockside-30a-15a-adapter-ground-fault-protection
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