3 amp discharge

[kerryb]

Update on 3 amp drain. Went to the boat today and took the black wire with the diode out of the circuit to test. As before, this removed the 3 amp drain. I started the engine and after racing to get the alternator to engage, I tested the refrig. compressor by turning on the 60 minuit timer. To my surprise, the clutch engaged and it began to cool the tank in the box. What I did notice was that after running for some time, the timer dial did not count down. So my thoughts now is that the relay that the black and red wire were attached to must control the timer somehow. From the alternator having to have the engine raced to activate point toward the red wire connected to the warning light not doing it's job of providing the excitement needed to get the alternator charging. So maybe the black wire with diode was added from the B+ terminal to provide the .43 volts or so needed to excite the terminal and turn on the green relay which in turn turns on the second relay in the breaker panel to control the timer switch.
Does this make sense, or am I still grabbing at straws?
I did add a new truecharge2 20 amp charger back into the system. It is drawing .1 amp that was not there without it. Is this natural, and is .1 amp enough to be concerned about?

 

[Sumner]

On the phone I thought we had decided that the black wire does excite the alternator and that part of the circuit wasn't the problem as it is doing what it should be doing.

Did you disconnect the amp light that was working backwards to the way it should be working and see if the discharge went away?

Sum

 

[kerryb]

Sumner, according to the wiring diagram, the red wire connected to the D+ spade is supposed to excite the alternator, so that is where I put it. It is also supposed to send the signal back to the warning light so that it goes off. This is working as far as the indicator light being on when ing. switch is on, and it goes off when the engine starts. Actually now that I think about it, I am not sure if it is exciting the alternator or no. I believe the light goes out when engine starts, but I was going by the tach. It did not start until I rev'ed the engine.
I did disconnect the wires from the light, and the draw was still there.
Do you know if the .1 amp draw is common from the charger? If my Atlantic crossing takes 20 days, that would be 48 amps with the charger left off, which I prefer as I do not trust it even new, to do the float charge. Trip is pushed to next week as the boat did not leave Spain until the 15th.

 

[Sumner]

I don't know about the charger thing, but .1 amp wouldn't bother me if I had solar panels or were running the motor at all during the day. That is less than 3 amp hours a day.

On your discharge problem the part of the circuit with the charging light doesn't bother me now that you say it is on with the key on and off running. That sounds normal.

I would cut the diode out of the wire at this point and leave one end connected to the terminal on the alternator and the other connected to the "Y" connection.

1. Then strip the ends where you cut the wire.

2. Then start then motor, but don't rev it. It shouldn't be charging.

3. Touch/connect the wire you cut the diode out of back together. It should start charging.

4. Then turn things off, but leave the wires connected. You should have the 3 amp discharge.

5. Disconnect the wires. The discharge should go away.

If all of that happens something is wrong with the diode and/or that was never wired correctly when they modified the wiring and the diode isn't going to work.

Right now the alternator is not getting 'excited' correctly if you have to rev it up. Doing that will normally also excite it.

Hope that helps,

Sum

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[kerryb]

I will be away for roughly 3-4 weeks on the Atlantic crossing while the boat remains at the dock. This was the only reason the .1 amp kinda bothers me. My house bank is 396 amps, while the engine is only 100 or so. 3 weeks will be about 50 amps while 4 weeks will be about 70. I believe the house banks can take it, but if the engine battery is discarging at the rate, not good. I am going to fix the shorepower so it can just be plugged in for a day about two weeks in, or I could just disconnect the charger from the engine battery. During normal time, no concern as I try to take her out every week or so. I do believe I will get in the habit of plugging the shore power on and top the batteries off at least once a month as suggested by charger documents.

 

[zeehag]

3 amps sounds suspiciously like what a bilge pump uses--are you sure isnt the case?? do you have a bilge pump drawing on your batteries?? or does it go thru the panel?? some are hard wired to batteries instead of panel...i know mine are thru panel but didnt used to be----draw 3 amps when in use and 1.9 A when not in use--just on and not running.......EACH one...my ericson has one to panel and one emergency pump always on....could that be the case??.

 

[kerryb]

zeehag, no, I confirmed that the draw is not there at all when the wire in question on the alternator is disconnected.