I know their is a lot of information on this site, but I can not seem to find this answer. What thickness of flax do I need to re-pack stuffing box on a 2GM20F with a 1 inch shaft. I have read many ways on how to measure but I want to make sure the measurement I come up with jibes with what people have used. Or is their a site I can go to for answers?
2GM20F stuffing box flax size
- Thread starter bigsick
- Start date
Rather simple:
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=902550&highlight=flax
Good luck. Don't sweat it.
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=902550&highlight=flax
Good luck. Don't sweat it.
This be the place
.The engine has nothing to do with the packing size. It's the shaft and nut dimensions as per the two pros before me.
However, I'll take a wild guess here and say it's 1/4" unless it's an oddball gland. You want the packing to be a good tight fit when installing as it reduces the amount of tightening, hence reduced friction.
At the risk of starting a good fight here, I run my packing bone dry without a drip. Coincidentally, it's 1" dia. powered by a 2GM20F.
Flax size
You tighten the nut just enough so their is no drip when running? I was always told that this could lead to heating and scoring the shaft.
You tighten the nut just enough so their is no drip when running? I was always told that this could lead to heating and scoring the shaft.
This be the place
The engine has nothing to do with the packing size. It's the shaft and nut dimensions as per the two pros before me.
However, I'll take a wild guess here and say it's 1/4" unless it's an oddball gland. You want the packing to be a good tight fit when installing as it reduces the amount of tightening, hence reduced friction.
At the risk of starting a good fight here, I run my packing bone dry without a drip. Coincidentally, it's 1" dia. powered by a 2GM20F.
I think you'll find everything you need to know in answer to that question in this thread: http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=153899&#post1038026
I think it's worth reading in its entirety--especially MaineSail's contributions to it.
3/16 or 5MM Flax Square is what I'm using on the 326.
Mainsails site has an excellent how to.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
Mainsails site has an excellent how to.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects
What type, manufacturer and place to buy do you recommend? I usually go to west marine but I know their may be better places on line.
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Stuffing_box_packing
Includes materials and link to MS's box article, too.
Includes materials and link to MS's box article, too.
Job complete
I finished the job. It took 1/4" flax, the 3/16 would of been too lose. I took out two rings of old flax, so that is what I put back. I assume Yanmar put in proper amount of flax when the installed the engine. Thanks for all the suggestions.This be the place
The engine has nothing to do with the packing size. It's the shaft and nut dimensions as per the two pros before me.
However, I'll take a wild guess here and say it's 1/4" unless it's an oddball gland. You want the packing to be a good tight fit when installing as it reduces the amount of tightening, hence reduced friction.
At the risk of starting a good fight here, I run my packing bone dry without a drip. Coincidentally, it's 1" dia. powered by a 2GM20F.
Glad it Worked Out .....................
............................. and with using the "Graphtex Ultra GTU braided with WL Gore fibers" the packing should last at least the life of the boat if not longer.
One question that's been gnawing away at me ever since you posted this is ....... what's the significance of the name "bigsick". I hope it's not a physical condition.
............................. and with using the "Graphtex Ultra GTU braided with WL Gore fibers" the packing should last at least the life of the boat if not longer.
One question that's been gnawing away at me ever since you posted this is ....... what's the significance of the name "bigsick". I hope it's not a physical condition.
Possibly so. I prefer 3 rings of 3/16" flax pack. Gives me a chance to tighten and then add another ring before needing to change all in couple years time.
The flax I removed from stuffing appeared to be same size as the 1/4". It for sure was larger than the 3/16", and their was only 2 rings. That is why I went with the 1/4".
Here's what I suggest you do. If you've run the boat for a short time, hopefully short, AND you did the packing yourself, so you know how to do it, right?, then UNDO the box again and see what the shaft looks like. I agree with Steve that 3/16" is most likely (but not for sure) the right size. You do NOT want to score your shaft. For the hour's worth of work it'll take you, check it before you do any damage. As per the two links I earlier provided, it is true that SOME 1" shafts take 1/4" packing, but it's based on the BOX on the shaft.
You were earlier given a great way to MEASURE the box to correctly size the packing material Did you do that?
...I'll take a wild guess here and say it's 1/4" unless it's an oddball gland. You want the packing to be a good tight fit when installing as it reduces the amount of tightening, hence reduced friction....
is simply wrong. You need the right size.
...according to H326 manual, the packing is 3/16". My yard packs in 1/4" for me, it'll work but a pain to remove. 3/16" may seems loose but if you pack in 3 or 4 rings, you should be able to tighten nicely.
Getting closer to reality here. But usually 3 rings is what you NEED based on the LINK I gave you. Again, did you read it?
Here's a link to the picture of the shaft and box that is mentioned in my link, you have to scroll down through it to find that proper page that has the great drawing of the assembly:
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals
Open or save the Mark I manual and please read it, too.
All this is simply 'cuz I don't want you to ruin your entire shaft.
When it comes to stuffing boxes bigger is NOT better!!!:naughty::naughty::naughty:
Good luck.
I did not measure before hand. Do not have calipers to measure distance from shaft to ID of nut and the other way (ID of nut minus diameter of shaft is very difficult). How do you measure ID of nut when an shaft is running through the middle?