I've a couple of questions regarding battery charging on my 96 29.5 Hunter. First, regarding battery switch position during charging. I usually charge #1 or #2 in turn, but would like to charge them simultaneously if possible by placing the sw in the "both" position, can this be done? Any precautions or advisories if it can be done? Second, On occasion I've left my battery charger on for a week at a time & upon return have found the battery fluid depleted. Isn't the charger supposed to adjust to the state of charge, going to a trickle when appropriate? I would appreciate any advice on these issues.
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Steve O.
charge 'em
You can charge in the "both" position but never turn the switch to off while the engine is running or you could zap your alternator. Without knowing what make/model charger you have, it's impossible to tell if it is a 3-stage "smart" charger.
You can charge in the "both" position but never turn the switch to off while the engine is running or you could zap your alternator. Without knowing what make/model charger you have, it's impossible to tell if it is a 3-stage "smart" charger.
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Bill O'Donovan
What little I know
Charge one battery during the week, then the other on the weekend. Charging with "all" doesn't full charge both, just the closest one. That's why you have to alternate. But by all means, run the boat on "all" because the alternator will charge both batteries. As it gets warmer, back off on charging for a full week at a time, since it tends to boil out the water.
Charge one battery during the week, then the other on the weekend. Charging with "all" doesn't full charge both, just the closest one. That's why you have to alternate. But by all means, run the boat on "all" because the alternator will charge both batteries. As it gets warmer, back off on charging for a full week at a time, since it tends to boil out the water.
with the proper charger and good batteries...
George: With the proper charger and good batteries you should be able to leave the charger on 24 x 7. We hear this about the Guest chargers all the time (do not know what you have). Check out the archives about chargers. If you do not have a high quality 3 or 4 stage charger, I'd suggest that you look into one. The Statpower 20+ from Xantrex is a good choice. There are several other quality ones on the market too. Some of these chargers can charge 2 or 3 banks of batteries at the same time.
George: With the proper charger and good batteries you should be able to leave the charger on 24 x 7. We hear this about the Guest chargers all the time (do not know what you have). Check out the archives about chargers. If you do not have a high quality 3 or 4 stage charger, I'd suggest that you look into one. The Statpower 20+ from Xantrex is a good choice. There are several other quality ones on the market too. Some of these chargers can charge 2 or 3 banks of batteries at the same time.
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Craig Cassidy
George, I have a 29.5 as well. Last season I put a meter on the battery switch and found the only way to charge the #2 battery was to have the battery switch in the both postion. If I put it in the #2 postion the charger did not charge the battery. If you have the orginal Battery Charger that came with your boat I doubt it is a multi step unit. Mine is not. Good Luck Craig Cassidy ONE STEP UP HULL # 145
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Bill Murray
rewire!!
I will post two picture files in the photo/project forum. Schematic 1 is how my boat was wired by the factory/dealer. This is probably how your's is too. It represents the cheapest quickest way to install a second battery. The #1 battery is wired directly to the alternator and the charger output. The only way the #2 battery can ever get charged by either the alternator or the battery charger is when the main battery switch is in the BOTH position. This of course essentially defeats the very purpose for wanting a second battery bank in the first place! I wanted to have .... - one battery just for the engine and one battery bank just for everything else - the ability in a pinch to use the house battery (or all the batteries combined) as a starting battery - for this to work essentially automatically without me having to keep setting switches and remember what positions they were in all the time The secret is a little rewiring and a "battery combiner" http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=7470). This $65.00 gadget lets your charger or your alternator automatically charge both batteries as though they were connected together in one big bank. At all other times they batteries are controlled by your battery switches which mostly keeps them isolated from each other. If your system is set up like in schematic #1, you need to make the following changes .... 1. Disconnect the negative cables from all your batteries while you are working on this. Batteries contain huge amounts of power and a short can cause burns, fires and explosions! Disconnect your shore power too just to be sure you don't goof. 2. Disconnect the house (12v DC panel) positive wire from the common terminal on the battery switch and connect it to terminal 2 on the battery switch. Make sure the positive cable from the starting battery is connected to terminal one on the battery switch and the positive cable from the house battery is connected to terminal two on the battery switch. 3. Get a battery combiner and follow its installation instructions. All I had to do with mine was (from the combiner) run a wire to terminal 1 on the battery switch, and run another wire to terminal 2 on the battery switch and then run a wire from the ground terminal on the combiner to the common ground on the battery. 4. The battery switch now controls only which battery the engine is starting and operating off of. If you leave the battery switch in the Battery #1 position, the engine will use only #1 for starting. The 12V house (12V DC panel) functions are all operating off Battery bank #2 all the time. If ever necessary in a pinch you can start the engine using battery #2 or even both together by changing the battery switch. All batteries get charged no matter what position the switch is in. 5. You can make the system safer and better if you also add a switch for the cable connecting the house battery - otherwise the only way to disconnect the DC panel is to take the cable off the #2 battery terminals. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=63168&store_num=9&store_name=Electrical&subdept_num=457&subdept_name=Batteries%20%26%20Accessories&class_num=461&class_name=Battery%20Switches%20%26%20Cables&outlet= You should also add fuses as shown in the schematic, especially if you have long cable runs from the batteries to the other panels, connections, etc. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/CategoryDisplay?cgmenbr=201&cgrfnbr=466&outlet= Is this clear? If not please get back to me with questions. Try it - it makes life simpler and safer. Bill Murray S/V Good Faith H29.5 #175
I will post two picture files in the photo/project forum. Schematic 1 is how my boat was wired by the factory/dealer. This is probably how your's is too. It represents the cheapest quickest way to install a second battery. The #1 battery is wired directly to the alternator and the charger output. The only way the #2 battery can ever get charged by either the alternator or the battery charger is when the main battery switch is in the BOTH position. This of course essentially defeats the very purpose for wanting a second battery bank in the first place! I wanted to have .... - one battery just for the engine and one battery bank just for everything else - the ability in a pinch to use the house battery (or all the batteries combined) as a starting battery - for this to work essentially automatically without me having to keep setting switches and remember what positions they were in all the time The secret is a little rewiring and a "battery combiner" http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=7470). This $65.00 gadget lets your charger or your alternator automatically charge both batteries as though they were connected together in one big bank. At all other times they batteries are controlled by your battery switches which mostly keeps them isolated from each other. If your system is set up like in schematic #1, you need to make the following changes .... 1. Disconnect the negative cables from all your batteries while you are working on this. Batteries contain huge amounts of power and a short can cause burns, fires and explosions! Disconnect your shore power too just to be sure you don't goof. 2. Disconnect the house (12v DC panel) positive wire from the common terminal on the battery switch and connect it to terminal 2 on the battery switch. Make sure the positive cable from the starting battery is connected to terminal one on the battery switch and the positive cable from the house battery is connected to terminal two on the battery switch. 3. Get a battery combiner and follow its installation instructions. All I had to do with mine was (from the combiner) run a wire to terminal 1 on the battery switch, and run another wire to terminal 2 on the battery switch and then run a wire from the ground terminal on the combiner to the common ground on the battery. 4. The battery switch now controls only which battery the engine is starting and operating off of. If you leave the battery switch in the Battery #1 position, the engine will use only #1 for starting. The 12V house (12V DC panel) functions are all operating off Battery bank #2 all the time. If ever necessary in a pinch you can start the engine using battery #2 or even both together by changing the battery switch. All batteries get charged no matter what position the switch is in. 5. You can make the system safer and better if you also add a switch for the cable connecting the house battery - otherwise the only way to disconnect the DC panel is to take the cable off the #2 battery terminals. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prmenbr=201&prrfnbr=63168&store_num=9&store_name=Electrical&subdept_num=457&subdept_name=Batteries%20%26%20Accessories&class_num=461&class_name=Battery%20Switches%20%26%20Cables&outlet= You should also add fuses as shown in the schematic, especially if you have long cable runs from the batteries to the other panels, connections, etc. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/commerce/command/CategoryDisplay?cgmenbr=201&cgrfnbr=466&outlet= Is this clear? If not please get back to me with questions. Try it - it makes life simpler and safer. Bill Murray S/V Good Faith H29.5 #175
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