So in no time at all the spring season will be here. I have a saturated rudder on my '85 Hunter. I seem to recall reading somewhere that the old Foss rudders had cast iron fins attached to the rudder post. I am thinking this is true because it appears that a rust colored goo is seeping out of a crack in the seam if the rudder near the bottom. So I am debating - is it worth it to repair the rudder if there is a possibility that corroding parts will cause a rudder failure? Or should I replace it? With both a delamination problem, and a split along the seem of the fiberglass halves, it seems to me that the best repair job would be to remove the fiberglass, dry out the foam core, then re-glass/gel coate the core. A lot of work. I know Ida Marine does not sell rudders for the 28.5 anymore, so that leave me with Foss. The new rudder isn't cheap....so looking for confirmation that there are components under that foam that can corrode. If so, then replacement seems the only way to go. Opinions?
28.5 Rudder - To replace or not
- Thread starter Mike H16604
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the weld points are the key issue
Unless you want to take the chance of losing the rudder, it seems to me you have only two options. Given the expense of a new rudder, it's not that much work and might be worth spending part of a day opening up the rudder to examine the welds on the frame to rudder post to see if it can be repaired. If the metal is in tact and can be reused, just have it welded solidly, repack and glass it. If it can't be fixed and you need to purchase a replacement, at least you'll know the added expense was required.
Unless you want to take the chance of losing the rudder, it seems to me you have only two options. Given the expense of a new rudder, it's not that much work and might be worth spending part of a day opening up the rudder to examine the welds on the frame to rudder post to see if it can be repaired. If the metal is in tact and can be reused, just have it welded solidly, repack and glass it. If it can't be fixed and you need to purchase a replacement, at least you'll know the added expense was required.
We don't need any stinking RUDDERS!
I think these rudders can be adapted to your use and application
I think these rudders can be adapted to your use and application
Rebuild
One way or another you should open it up, dry it out and see how difficult the repair might be before you go right bsck to Foss Foam for the same replacement at mucho $$$. I removed drilled holes re-sealed the seams and re-filled the holes and still have minor on-going but controllable blistering, but I see Foss Foam as the problem and certainly not the solution.
One way or another you should open it up, dry it out and see how difficult the repair might be before you go right bsck to Foss Foam for the same replacement at mucho $$$. I removed drilled holes re-sealed the seams and re-filled the holes and still have minor on-going but controllable blistering, but I see Foss Foam as the problem and certainly not the solution.
still for sale on this website.
Mike: They are still selling the rudder for the 28.5 on this website. The cost is just under $1000. I would check with Bly and see if they are still available. It seems that everyone bitches about the Foss rudders, but most of the boats have never had them replaced in over 25 years. I would probably think about opening your up and seeing what the problems are before you decide to purchase another one. I did not think that there was a problem with the metal that was used, but the problem is that water infiltrated the rudder and caused the welds to fail.
Mike: They are still selling the rudder for the 28.5 on this website. The cost is just under $1000. I would check with Bly and see if they are still available. It seems that everyone bitches about the Foss rudders, but most of the boats have never had them replaced in over 25 years. I would probably think about opening your up and seeing what the problems are before you decide to purchase another one. I did not think that there was a problem with the metal that was used, but the problem is that water infiltrated the rudder and caused the welds to fail.
Check out the photos
Mike, Go to the homepage for Hunterowners.com, click on the 28.5 on the left side of the screen. Under the Hunter 28.5's for sale box is a box for Photo Articles. There is a breif story and 2 photos from a 1985 28.5 rudder rebuild. It should help you decide one way or the other. Tom s/v Orion's Child
Mike, Go to the homepage for Hunterowners.com, click on the 28.5 on the left side of the screen. Under the Hunter 28.5's for sale box is a box for Photo Articles. There is a breif story and 2 photos from a 1985 28.5 rudder rebuild. It should help you decide one way or the other. Tom s/v Orion's Child
follow-up news
Note the below from IdaSailor. Thought others might find this useful. I am going ahead with getting a replacement rudder from them. <<Hi Mike, We stopped building the H28.5 rudder a few months ago. They were a great part, with superb performance but expensive to build. The owners who we built 28.5 rudders for were universally happy in the performance improvements gained.We essentially stopped building spade rudders to concentrate on our transom hung rudder and tiller business. All that being said, we are still in our slow season until March and we may build one or two more high performance spade rudders this year. Cost is in the $1300 - $1400 range, depending on a couple options; sadly the cost is function of the relentless increases in materials we are seeing from our suppliers. Let me know if you are interested in pursuing a new rudder sooner than later and I'll check the production schedule to see when we could produce and ship a 28.5 rudder. Also, let me know what other questions you might have. thanks for your email and fair winds, -Joel Joel Santarone General Manager IdaSailor Marine Inc. www.idasailor.com 866-400-2204 toll free 208-375-2204 shop sailboats@idasailor.com >>
Note the below from IdaSailor. Thought others might find this useful. I am going ahead with getting a replacement rudder from them. <<Hi Mike, We stopped building the H28.5 rudder a few months ago. They were a great part, with superb performance but expensive to build. The owners who we built 28.5 rudders for were universally happy in the performance improvements gained.We essentially stopped building spade rudders to concentrate on our transom hung rudder and tiller business. All that being said, we are still in our slow season until March and we may build one or two more high performance spade rudders this year. Cost is in the $1300 - $1400 range, depending on a couple options; sadly the cost is function of the relentless increases in materials we are seeing from our suppliers. Let me know if you are interested in pursuing a new rudder sooner than later and I'll check the production schedule to see when we could produce and ship a 28.5 rudder. Also, let me know what other questions you might have. thanks for your email and fair winds, -Joel Joel Santarone General Manager IdaSailor Marine Inc. www.idasailor.com 866-400-2204 toll free 208-375-2204 shop sailboats@idasailor.com >>
replace Rudder
Strip it, open it & Check it! Foss used 2 different steels in the rudder stock. Stainless & Cold Rolled Steel. These metals are not compatable when exposed to water, air & Fatigue. I Replaced 2 of them on my 31 hunter. DON'T try to reweld it if it shows signs of rust. The steel is 20 years old and will be brittle if you try to repair the joints. I strongly suggest you replace it. It will only fail when your in bad stuff than you will be in a real bad situation. If any one wants info on this reply threw this site & I will call you or email. It's not fun being resucued twice by the Coast Gaurd. In 12-15 ft seas & 50mph winds. & yes I still own a Hunter.
Strip it, open it & Check it! Foss used 2 different steels in the rudder stock. Stainless & Cold Rolled Steel. These metals are not compatable when exposed to water, air & Fatigue. I Replaced 2 of them on my 31 hunter. DON'T try to reweld it if it shows signs of rust. The steel is 20 years old and will be brittle if you try to repair the joints. I strongly suggest you replace it. It will only fail when your in bad stuff than you will be in a real bad situation. If any one wants info on this reply threw this site & I will call you or email. It's not fun being resucued twice by the Coast Gaurd. In 12-15 ft seas & 50mph winds. & yes I still own a Hunter.
Rudder Repair
I have a 78 Hunter 30. No apparent signs of problems but I've always wondered about the rudder after reading all these related posts. Due to the age, and I'm quiet sure nothings been done to it in the past, should I cut a hole in the side and do an inspection? Or I was thinking drill a few holes in the bottom and see if water dripsout. If it appears dry, then patch the holes and leave it alone? I'd hate to have this thing come undone when on the way to the Bahamas? Gezzz
I have a 78 Hunter 30. No apparent signs of problems but I've always wondered about the rudder after reading all these related posts. Due to the age, and I'm quiet sure nothings been done to it in the past, should I cut a hole in the side and do an inspection? Or I was thinking drill a few holes in the bottom and see if water dripsout. If it appears dry, then patch the holes and leave it alone? I'd hate to have this thing come undone when on the way to the Bahamas? Gezzz
Rudders
If I remember right the rudder stock on that series is a straight piece of steel with no bends or welds. If I am right you should not have any problems with the rudder itself. On the newer series starting around 1985 and going through 1989 I think. The rudder stock was two pieced The reason for this if you look the rudders have about an 8 degree rake aft. In order to make the aft rake they had to be 2 pieced. That’s where the bad steel comes into play. The one thing if I remember right you have to watch is were the Quadrate and rudder stock are joined some times that bolt comes loose.
If I remember right the rudder stock on that series is a straight piece of steel with no bends or welds. If I am right you should not have any problems with the rudder itself. On the newer series starting around 1985 and going through 1989 I think. The rudder stock was two pieced The reason for this if you look the rudders have about an 8 degree rake aft. In order to make the aft rake they had to be 2 pieced. That’s where the bad steel comes into play. The one thing if I remember right you have to watch is were the Quadrate and rudder stock are joined some times that bolt comes loose.
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