I have been trying to figure out how to rig a asymetrical spinnaker tack on our boat. We have roller furling, so it is not possible to attach the tack to the headsail tack without it bending around the drum. Want it to be adjustable. We do not have an anchor roller. What have others done? Any suggestions?
28.5 assymetrical tack
- Thread starter Jim21895
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I used the ATN Tacker
It came with my North asymetrical spinnaker. Easy and fun to sail! I have a Hunter 28.
It came with my North asymetrical spinnaker. Easy and fun to sail! I have a Hunter 28.
Easy fix
I have perfected an 8-foot spinnaker bowsprit that extends from the anchor locker outward about 4-5 feet. You can buy the parts at any hardware store. Send me your email and I'll send you the pix and directions free.
I have perfected an 8-foot spinnaker bowsprit that extends from the anchor locker outward about 4-5 feet. You can buy the parts at any hardware store. Send me your email and I'll send you the pix and directions free.
Tie a turning block to a pendant tied off
to one of the bow cleats so the block is above the furler head when the sail is up and the tack line is hardened. Sure it will angle toward the headstay, but you are probably going to use one of those ATN type sleeves to keep the tack near the furled jib, so shouldn't be a problem. You can also make a tack sleeve/bridle fairly easily, check the archives I remember a good photo and explaination there.
to one of the bow cleats so the block is above the furler head when the sail is up and the tack line is hardened. Sure it will angle toward the headstay, but you are probably going to use one of those ATN type sleeves to keep the tack near the furled jib, so shouldn't be a problem. You can also make a tack sleeve/bridle fairly easily, check the archives I remember a good photo and explaination there.
Assymetrical
Install a sheave at the headstay below the roller furling. Run a ten foot line thru the sheave and secure the tack of the sail. When you have the sail up and open pull the foot down so that it is about 4-5 feet off the deck and secure to a cleat. Be sure to run your sheets outside the life lines and to a turning block behind your winches. Let the head of the sail out a couple of feet from the mast to give it room to fill completely. You should be up and going. Mine works best if I drop the Main. The ATN sleave is a great device for controlling the sail and keeping it close to the headstay. You will still need to secure the tack to the headstay anchor. Go to North Sail site and look up their recommendations for running an Assymetric. Good Luck, Michael msosborn@msn.com
Install a sheave at the headstay below the roller furling. Run a ten foot line thru the sheave and secure the tack of the sail. When you have the sail up and open pull the foot down so that it is about 4-5 feet off the deck and secure to a cleat. Be sure to run your sheets outside the life lines and to a turning block behind your winches. Let the head of the sail out a couple of feet from the mast to give it room to fill completely. You should be up and going. Mine works best if I drop the Main. The ATN sleave is a great device for controlling the sail and keeping it close to the headstay. You will still need to secure the tack to the headstay anchor. Go to North Sail site and look up their recommendations for running an Assymetric. Good Luck, Michael msosborn@msn.com
Michael and others
Thanks for the suggestions. What I am having a hard time grappling with is how to avoid contact between the furler drum and the tack line. If I attach a block to the headstay/headsail anchor point, then the tack line will be right on the drum. It would seem that the load would distort or damage the drum and certainly would chaff the line. The drum is one of the older CDI drums and spans the entire width of the bow between the pulpit (junk in my opinion, but stuck with it for a while).
Thanks for the suggestions. What I am having a hard time grappling with is how to avoid contact between the furler drum and the tack line. If I attach a block to the headstay/headsail anchor point, then the tack line will be right on the drum. It would seem that the load would distort or damage the drum and certainly would chaff the line. The drum is one of the older CDI drums and spans the entire width of the bow between the pulpit (junk in my opinion, but stuck with it for a while).
Hey John
I'm not familiar with the 28.5 but I checked out some 28.5 photos. Anyway it looks like you have a slotted toe rail and maybe slotted bow chocks. These could be anchor points for your tack line turning block. To avoid the furler head (plastic right?) you want the tack line to start at the deck level a foot or so to the side or rear of the drum. the tack line doesn't have to run along side the furled sail because the tack of the assym will be held around the jib/stay with a collar that is separtly rigged from the tack line itself. Lets say you can anchor a snatch block to the toe rail two feet (outboard and aft) from the furler drum. The tack line would then go thru the toe rail turning block and angled up to the tack "collared" around the furled jib/stay 2-4 feet off the deck. This set up should avoid contact with the furler drum. Does this make sence, or am I missing something?
I'm not familiar with the 28.5 but I checked out some 28.5 photos. Anyway it looks like you have a slotted toe rail and maybe slotted bow chocks. These could be anchor points for your tack line turning block. To avoid the furler head (plastic right?) you want the tack line to start at the deck level a foot or so to the side or rear of the drum. the tack line doesn't have to run along side the furled sail because the tack of the assym will be held around the jib/stay with a collar that is separtly rigged from the tack line itself. Lets say you can anchor a snatch block to the toe rail two feet (outboard and aft) from the furler drum. The tack line would then go thru the toe rail turning block and angled up to the tack "collared" around the furled jib/stay 2-4 feet off the deck. This set up should avoid contact with the furler drum. Does this make sence, or am I missing something?
Assym tack
I figured one way to do it is to attach a block to the toe rail and lead the tack to the ATN Tacker or something like that. But, I was trying to come up with some way to rig it to allow the sail to project more forward of the boat when sailing deeper angles. Using the Tacker, for example, when you ease the tack for the deeper angles, the tack of the sail is brought closer to the mast, thus shortening "J." At say, six foot off the deck, that distance could be substantial. One thought I've had is to rig a static line off the port toe rail with a block at the end, and lead the tack line through a block on the starboard toe rail and up through the block at the end of the port line to the sail tack. Sort of like a bridle to clear the furler, etc. Anyone have any further thoughts?
I figured one way to do it is to attach a block to the toe rail and lead the tack to the ATN Tacker or something like that. But, I was trying to come up with some way to rig it to allow the sail to project more forward of the boat when sailing deeper angles. Using the Tacker, for example, when you ease the tack for the deeper angles, the tack of the sail is brought closer to the mast, thus shortening "J." At say, six foot off the deck, that distance could be substantial. One thought I've had is to rig a static line off the port toe rail with a block at the end, and lead the tack line through a block on the starboard toe rail and up through the block at the end of the port line to the sail tack. Sort of like a bridle to clear the furler, etc. Anyone have any further thoughts?
Just get some blocks and line
and head out in light air and have some fun playing around with your set up.
and head out in light air and have some fun playing around with your set up.
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