272LE battery charge

[dennis young]

My batteries are sealed and I understand that I can't test them effectively, but they do show a green eye. They are connected by wing nuts, NOT to the lead posts. Two hours of motoring on the "both" switch do not seem to recharge them and the Westerbeke has been more and more difficult to turn. Could the problem lie with the wing nut connectors? If not, then with the alternator -- whose output some owners say is "inadequate"? Is the green eye a good guide? I'd be glad of comments to hold over for next season.

 

[Bob Vannier]

Batteries

The green eye should indicate a charged battery but I would check them with a voltmeter. they should read close to 14 volts with no load. You should also notice a slight drop in voltage while cranking. It there is no change while cranking, look for a loose conection. If the voltage shows a large drop, the batteries need charging. If they don't hold the charge, you need new batteries. Hope this helps you. Let me know at rovan99@nycap.rr.com

 

[Tom Ehmke]

How old are the batteries?

Some more things to check. Alternator belt, is it worn or loose? The batteries on my 272 are in the cockpit lazarette. If I remember correctly they are located in the cabin somewhere on the LE model. Are the cables clean and intact? If you have an off/1/both/2 battery switch and leave it on both when you are away from the boat, it is likely that the weaker battery will draw the current from the better one and eventually drain both batteries.I had that problem for two seasons before I found out what was wrong and configured a system recommended in the WM catalog using three on/off switches and a battery combiner. I also replaced both batteries, the house deep cycle last season and the starting battery this season. No problems. I have no shore power at the slip, so all of the battery charging is done by the Mitsubishi alternator. I should add that I operate minimal 12V equipment on board. I am not a gadget nut...You will find some interesting posts in the archives which discuss the alternator question. I'll check for you and if I find something useful, post another reply.Tom

 

[Tom Ehmke]

Dennis, try the archives for some ideas

I typed "alternator and battery problems" and got all kinds of stuff that would be of use to you.Start digging!!Tom

 

[Gerry Weingart]

Check your cables!

So many times people overlook their cables assuming that they have a alternator or battery problem. Many times the ground cable on the engine itsef is the culpritBe it the connector or cable has too many broken strands for adequate current draw. Several tests to try:1. Is the starting problem the same when using either battery independantly. Not in the both position.If the same problem occurs with either battery then check the cables between the switch and the engine positive and negative.If the problem is only with one battery check its cables and take the battery and load test it. You can get a cheap battery load tester at most auto parts stores and most stores will test it for nothing. Something else to consider is the engine starter itself. the brushes do wear and require replacement. This too can be checked using a clamp on amp meter to check for excessive current draw. This may be the problem if the battery select switch is placed in the "both" position and the cables are all good and you have the same problem. Try these few things to narrow down the problem. I very rarely have to use the both position to start my engine. Only if i run too many "toys" during my port transits.Hope this helps