272 CDI furler

[Pickwick]

Hi - I recently purchased a 1986 Oday 272. It has a CDI 4/6 (I think). The problem I am having is that the line guard rotates when I unfurl the jib. As a result the furling line wraps around the outside of the line guard arms rather than inside around the drum. If I carefully rewind the furling line around the drum, it will furl fine. It's only a problem when i try to unfurl the jib.

After inspection, I don't see anything that keeps the arms of the line guard from rotating. This is not the enclosed drum style. Instead it has 4 arms that come up from below the drum, one of which has a hole that guides the furling line. ref. K

What needs to be adjusted or replaced?

Thanks!

 

[justsomeguy]

Type "A" or model "O"?

 

[Pickwick]

best guess - model B. It has a stamped flat steel shaped rather than wire shaped line guides.

 

[Pat]

I don't know...mine is the same design as that shown but the guide eye has never tried to rotate w/the drum. In walking the docks I have seen cases where the eye was tied to a stanction base, but mine has never tried to rotate...I'll look this coming weekend when at the lake

 

[Pat]

I forgot to mention that according to CDI, this model (mine) can be updated to a closed
drum quite easily. I've not done that because I sometimes single hand and if I have an overwrap (not a frequent occurance) on the drum for some reason, I can lay on the deck and straighten it out with an open face where otherwise, I could be in deep trouble with a closed faced drum.

 

[tedsbeds]

The line guard is supposed to be clamped to the turnbuckle at the bottom of your forestay. If your turnbuckle is not secured with a cotter pin or lock nut you may be loosening and /or tightening your forestay every tim you furl/unfurl. That cage should be secured to the bottom stuf=d on the turnbuckle.

 

[Bob Cronin]

I had a CD on my 24ft C&C - I had to relocate the fairlead to angle the roller furling line to the center of the drum. I eventually replaced it with a Harken. A couple of times I got a loop-over when the genny unfurled too fast. Any idea on how to keep light tension on it during unfurling??

 

[Pat]

I had a CD on my 24ft C&C - I had to relocate the fairlead to angle the roller furling line to the center of the drum. I eventually replaced it with a Harken. A couple of times I got a loop-over when the genny unfurled too fast. Any idea on how to keep light tension on it during unfurling??

I try never to pull it out so fast it can freely spin which allows the overlap to happen...I hold the line while pulling it out so it stays under my control...Sometimes if the wind is blowing I try to cleat the furling line off ahead of time enough that it cannot completely unfurl so fast that the overlap can happen....If it is blowing you don't want to pull it all the way out ....just cleat it off at maybe 80 or 70, perhaps 60 percent and while holding the line with one hand, pull it slowly with the other....also make sure your main is reefed.
The O'Day 272 is a grand sailor in heavy steady winds if the main is reefed and the headsail furled to around 70 percent. good luck!

 

[py26129]

I will second what Pat said. Always make sure to keep a little tention on the furling line then unfurling the genny. This ensures that the furling line is taken up nicely on the drum.

Unfortunately I cannot help regarding the issue of the rotating line guard. I had the same furler as you on previous boat, for 12 years and did not have this issue.

You could always call CDI ad discuss the issue with them. They were always very very helpful when I called them.

Matt

 

[Gudenuph]

I had a CD on my 24ft C&C - I had to relocate the fairlead to angle the roller furling line to the center of the drum. I eventually replaced it with a Harken. A couple of times I got a loop-over when the genny unfurled too fast. Any idea on how to keep light tension on it during unfurling??

We had good luck, for twelve years or so, maintaining about 2 lbs tension on the furling line by passing the line through a slightly undersized hole in a block of micarta attached the the lifeline stanchion. You may have to taper the line to pass it through the hole, just heat it and roll it under your shoe.
The hole in the block was about two inches long while the width and thickness were and inch larger than the hole diameter. It was simply lashed to the stanchion with small stuff.
FWIW, Geohan