26S centerboard control

Nov 30, 2015
217
MacGregor 26S Lakehills, Tx
This is the only pic I have. The vertical chrome tube at the corner of the galley is connected with a piece of tubing to the fibreglass connection where the cable goes down to the rudder.
This is the setup I've been considering with a 2:1 advantage like Sumner has, with the tube being 2" diameter to accommodate a block inside. I would prefer pinch point to be covered so no-one (namely me) tries to hold onto the line and pull at the same time........

My train of thought has it simpler to step into the galley area and pull the centerboard line from a standing position vs. bending over to pull from it's stock position.

BTW - Thanks for all the great idea's guys!
 

Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
Cool underwater shots Walt and I've had the same problem getting the board down underway. I'm all the way up on anchorages and usually all the way down 90% of the time unless I'm entering unknown shallow water and want it part ways up in case I run aground.

I haven't tried to gain anything running but might try and remember that in the future. I had some days in the Bahamas running or tacking on the same tack all day long for miles on end. It can spoil you over there. It is going to seem strange when I go back out onto Lake Powell or another lake,

Sumner
================================================================
1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...

MacGregor 26-S Mods...http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/endeavour-main/endeavour-index.html
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Canada, Florida, Bahamas
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,541
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
My train of thought has it simpler to step into the galley area and pull the centerboard line from a standing position vs. bending over to pull from it's stock position.
Maybe use an acrylic tube so you can see where the pulley is at? I find this useful especially when trying to get the CB down as where the line is in the cleat doesn't always tell you where the CB is. But the end of the cable (where I have the 2:1 block) does tell you where the CB is and its easy to see (especially if you are sailing).

Also, the point of bringing the control to the cockpit is (in my opinion) mostly for single hand performance sailing. If you always sail with crew, its pretty easy for someone to go below and run the CB. If they are not that strong, the simplest thing to is just add the 2:1 like Paul Brinkley did in the picture shown on the previous page. Even for single hand where you are only raising the CB getting on and off the trailer, it works fine just to go below. I think I have owned this boat for something like nine years and did that the whole time.. not really a problem with the stock setup or slightly modified stock setup.

But for the single hand where you are trying to get a little more performance out of the boat, this is where you should consider bringing the line out to the cockpit (and you can see a bunch of ways to do this in this thread).

For the single hand sailing (which I do almost every time I sail and almost prefer to single hand sail this boat just because its fun), here is where the cockpit control is useful

* if you do long down wind sails, raise the CB all the way into the trunk. My opinion.. the classics have a fairly low drag hull and its especially low drag with nothing at all extra in the water except the rudder. For this to matter much, everything else about the boat should have performance considered.

* even for mostly down wind, you can raise the CB most of the way. This changes the foil from high aspect to low aspect swept back which wont have as good of Lift to drag but it should have lower drag.

* if you race in very light winds where boat isnt moving fast, the high aspect CB is prone to stall when you want to change tacks. Im not sure how well this works but in theory you could raise the CB most of the way up and turn it into a low aspect foil which should be less prone to stall.

* the 26S centerboard handles grounding very well (it just drags.. goes up on its own) but you can also raise it for shallow sailing. I used to pick up a mooring ball single handed in shallow water and the cockpit control would have been useful for this.

But.. for just getting the boat on and off the trailer.. my opinion.. not worth the hassle/ holes and cuts usually needed to implement.
 
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walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,541
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
I had some days in the Bahamas running or tacking on the same tack all day long for miles on end. It can spoil you over there. It is going to seem strange when I go back out onto Lake Powell or another lake,
What finally made me want to try this is sailing at Lake Havasu. That wide spot at the top is about 2 miles wide and this doesnt show the whole lake but its long and skinny and the winds very often make sailing more upwind/downwind if you want to go to some other place on the lake.. and there is always another sailboat out who wants to drag race (and a small crowd so we all know each other.. had a big camp out at the marina last weekend during the balloon festival). So... the down wind with the CB all the way up is going to be fun..

havasu1.jpg
 
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walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,541
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
FYI, this is looking back at the rudder with the outboard down.. you can also see my wonderful bottom paint job and how well I got under the trailer bunks.. and also see the nice attractive fender dangling off the side of the boat.. LOL..
rudder1.JPG
 

walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,541
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
I dont think so but I have not seen the underside since the end of October. Im taking the boat out end of Feb so will see. FYI, I started a new topic on this (didnt want to have this one stray yet)
 
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walt

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Jun 1, 2007
3,541
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
I think that tube does look nice! Great mod!

I used this in a little heavier wind the other day and it still works but its a little more limited in when you can move the centerboard and its simply that any sort of speed of the boat that comes from sail force jams the CB in the slot (as its supposed to - its not the pivot bolt that takes the load of the CB, its the slot). I will still use this in heavier wind especially for long down wind sails but from the pure performance end, you will lose some time with the CB not in the proper position for what you are trying to do. For example, if you go from downwind to upwind, you immediately want the CB all the way down.. but that isnt going to happen quickly and you have to go through at least one gentle tack to get the CB to fully drop. In light wind this works great. The Mac models with the dagger board will have about the same issue - you have to have the foil unloaded for it to drop (and probably to raise it).
 
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