26D Lines and Rigging Setup - Please check.

[finding41]

The traveller usually has a car that runs back and forth amd is controlled by lines and blocks with cleats on each side of it.
I think I saw a pic of on of the genoa cars (The go on the tracks on the sides of the cabin top.) on the traveller.
First pic is what I have on my Mac 26D, Transition. 2nd pic is what I wish I had on all the boats.

 

[finding41]

I mentioned pintal pin. It's the hitch pin you mentioned. It should be a SS bolt with a nylock nut.
Less chance of snagging and ripping a sail and won't rust.
This is what happens if you have steel parts on a white boat...
This is my Siren 17.
The last picture is from today. I have already used TSP and drain cleaner on the boat to try and remove the rust... It looked better last week before the rain...

 

[Snowbird One]

The traveller usually has a car that runs back and forth amd is controlled by lines and blocks with cleats on each side of it.
I think I saw a pic of on of the genoa cars (The go on the tracks on the sides of the cabin top.) on the traveller.
First pic is what I have on my Mac 26D, Transition. 2nd pic is what I wish I had on all the boats.

Ok, well, I'll upgrade some of that sort of thing in due course, but in the mean time this traveller set up is safe enough, right?

 

[finding41]

Ok, well, I'll upgrade some of that sort of thing in due course, but in the mean time this traveller set up is safe enough, right?

Only if that genoa car doesn't move.

 

[Snowbird One]

I mentioned pintal pin. It's the hitch pin you mentioned. It should be a SS bolt with a nylock nut.
Less chance of snagging and ripping a sail and won't rust.
This is what happens if you have steel parts on a white boat...
This is my Siren 17.
The last picture is from today. I have already used TSP and drain cleaner on the boat to try and remove the rust... It looked better last week before the rain...

Ok, I'll change that sooner than later.

For the rust staining you may try going to a company that supplies cleaning solutions to carpet cleaning companies. They have a "Rust Remover" product that work a lot of the time (but certainly not all the time). Key is to leave it for several minutes to work.

I've heard some of the rust remover products for the carpet guys are extremely painful to the skin; so wear gloves. And then you're supposed to neutralize with ammonia (NOT sudsy-ammonia, plain ammonia).

 

[Snowbird One]

Only if that genoa car doesn't move.

It has a spring pin (starboard side) that goes into the holes, and allows you to move it from one hole to the next. I wasn't sure if it was a strong enough pin, though. Don't know how much force it can handle.

 

[Snowbird One]

In regards to the pintal pin. It's a shame to have to go to a bolt. The hitch pin makes assembly/disassembly just that much faster.

 

[Cruiser1]

...................Oh, and to whomever asked before… I'm just outside Vancouver, British Columbia.

Hi SB One,
This may be of interest to you if you are able to visit
“MACGREGOR YACHT CLUB OF BRITISH COLUMBIA” 50 Macgregor Members, All types of Venture/Macgregor boats welcome: http://www.mycbc.ca

 

[Snowbird One]

Is This Better?

OK, I've made some adjustments as recommended.

But I do have a number of questions:

1. Is the boom supposed to hang so low when unloaded?
2. The head of the sail doesn't go all the way to the top, but it does put appropriate tension on the giant cotter pin. All good?
3. Is the boom vang oriented correctly?
4. I was told to connect the boom vang to the pintal pin. Is that correct?

I figured out why that cheek block was moved forward. It's to clear the bimini top. It seems to function well enough.

I had to cross the jib halyard with the jib control sheet on the port side. The reason is due to the fact that the cam cleat in the middle is too small for the jib halyard. That should be ok, though, right? Eventually, I'll look into swapping them.


Planning on taking it out today, if all is well with it.

 

[Doc_holiday]

At first glance, is your mast all the way up? It almost seems as though it is leaning backwards. Hard to tell from the perspective but the boom does seem perpendicular to the mast.

Can you adjust your stays and shrouds to stand the mast more forward? Again this is based on my glances at the pictures.

 

[Snowbird One]

At first glance, is your mast all the way up? It almost seems as though it is leaning backwards. Hard to tell from the perspective but the boom does seem perpendicular to the mast.

Can you adjust your stays and shrouds to stand the mast more forward? Again this is based on my glances at the pictures.

It is 3° back, as called for in the manual. There is no more room in the forestay turnbuckle to bring it any further forward. Of course, the 3° back based off of what, is the real question, as I couldn't find any reference to a datum line. I used the water line near the trailer axle as the level mark.

So, you're suggesting it looks wrong? A further glance at the photos does make it look like the boom is 90° to the mast, doesn't it?

There is this string thing in the trailing edge of the sail (luff?) that appears to be for making that edge tighter, but it doesn't seem to want to stay locked into the v-shaped slot in the plastic thing it goes through.

 

[Snowbird One]

The sail seems quite baggy at rest, even with the boom drooped down like that.

 

[Snowbird One]

A further glance at the photos does make it look like the boom is 90° to the mast, doesn't it?

Oh, oops, I just realized that I had the topping lift on, in the first picture. In the last picture the boom does appear much lower. That's when I removed the topping lift. And, yeah, it looks much more than 90°

 

[Chris & Lenore]

Fix the spreaders first - that is a huge safety issue. Spreaders take enormous compression loads and need to be held from sliding up or down the shroud. The end should intersect the shroud at equal angles (so there is no up or down force trying to move it).

I have seen what happens when a spreader slides (up in this case) on the shroud under load while sailing....

The ends in your pic look fine - if the disc parts are plastic you can use small washers under the screws (sized to overlap each other over the shroud). This works as well as the metal ends.

Chris

 

[Snowbird One]

Spreaders are corrected, now.

 

[finding41]

The main halyard is in the cleat for the jib sheet. Move it over to the next cleat to the right.
It is also in the jib sheet pad eye. (The thing the regular jib sheet is supposed to be in.)
I would move the furler cleat to the far left side so it doesn't go under the jib halyard.
This sailing season keep a camera with you so you can take pictures of other guys set ups.
Or search google for how to layout sailboat lines and sheets.
Here is some layouts I have saved for inspiration...
This fall is a great time to redo the layout of the deck and patch the holes left over.
Here is a link to the first photo's webpage. http://www.j24sailinghooray.com/refit.html

 

[Snowbird One]

The main halyard is in the cleat for the jib sheet. Move it over to the next cleat to the right.
It is also in the jib sheet pad eye. (The thing the regular jib sheet is supposed to be in.)
I would move the furler cleat to the far left side so it doesn't go under the jib halyard.
This sailing season keep a camera with you so you can take pictures of other guys set ups.
Or search google for how to layout sailboat lines and sheets.
Here is some layouts I have saved for inspiration...
This fall is a great time to redo the layout of the deck and patch the holes left over.
Here is a link to the first photo's webpage. http://www.j24sailinghooray.com/refit.html

Thank you for this, sounds like some good advice. I'll make some changes for the next time I'm out. Didn't get this message until after I went sailing yesterday.

 

[Snowbird One]

I have a question about the furler sheet. Is it needed? I do plan on do A LOT of single handing; or at minimum dealing with a crew (read that gf) who will not have any clue on how to assist.

Currently, I don't have a roller furler system. Maybe next year. I was at the marine supply store yesterday, and they suggested that since I don't have said system, I should just do away with all that mess I have up on the forestay, and get rid of that entire sheet for the time being.

What functional purpose does that sheet serve at this time? Is there any level of safety gained by being able to let out the tack of the jib/Genoa? Does it make it easier for me in some way when single handing?

 

[finding41]

I'm unclear what sheet your refering to.
Do you mean the thin one that runs up to the bow? It would be used to furl the sail.
Then no you don't need it.
However... Before i got a furler on one of my boats I used a thin line to go from the cockpit to the top of the genoa/ jib I put it through every other hank. I ran it along hte cabin top just ike the furling line. I used this pull the sail down from the cockpit.
It worked fine. Just get a 2" SS ring and tie it to the bow ware the for-stay attaches. It acts as a turning block.

 

[FlbkRoxie]

Before i got a furler on one of my boats I used a thin line to go from the cockpit to the top of the genoa/ jib I put it through every other hank. I ran it along hte cabin top just ike the furling line. I used this pull the sail down from the cockpit.
It worked fine. Just get a 2" SS ring and tie it to the bow ware the for-stay attaches. It acts as a turning block.

I really like this idea! Hate getting up there to pull the jib down, especially in rough water. I have a small weight attached to the top of the jib but it doesn't do the trick. Will have to try this. Thanks.