260 Rudder hail down device.

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Jeff Peltier

I responded to the other post also,

but, I'll copy it here also, because I think it's an interesting topic on a weak point. Perhaps, the whole think should be reversed to have the shaft push the rudder down and pull the rudder up with 2 ears tipped at a small angle to pin through a hole in the back of the rudder about 6-8" down. The means of holding it down could be either friction or tension, although my preference would be tension, as friction is hard to control, especially in saltwater conditions, and dosen't allow for returning to the prefered position. Jeff Peltier
 
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Bob Fliegel

Interesting!

Mark, its an interesting idea but I think a more effective solution is just a new rudder - one that does not float. Next winter I will make this my number one project and I will model the rudder design after that of a Hobie Cat. Good Luck to both of us!
 
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Brigg Franklin

Fix the rudder

I'm with the fix the rudder group. See my post on "help, my rudder split". The problem seems to me to be the rudder has way too much buoyancy. First it's hard to get down and then it's hard to keep down. The block and tackle that's inside the rudder post gives you a 2 to 1 advantage on pulling it down, which is still not enough. Then the pivot bolt with the handle on the nut are suppose to squeeze the metal cage and hold the rudder down. That hasn't worked well for me. I think, and am trying, adding weight to the bottom of the rudder to make both easier. I'm also having the bottom edge reinforced so a little sanding won't open the whole lower end. I'll have some interesting pictures when it's all done. Brigg
 
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Paul H

Rudder Problem

Hey, simple solution. Make the rudder a water ballast design so that the weight of the water keeps it down. When raised out of the water the water escapes from holes at the top of the rudder. At 7 -8 lbs per gallon of water maybe 4 -5 gallons would work. Of course getting that baby out and vertical would be a trick. Just a thought... Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
 
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crazy dave

turning block

Intially, there was only one line from the topo of the rudder post to the rudder which made it difficult to get the rudder down. I suggested to Hunter adding a block inside the rudder tube to give a 2 to 1 purchase to help this out. Sometimes that block will go below the bolt that screws on the wheel steering arm to the rudder post. To prevent this, I have always put in a stopper knot in the line that comes up from the block going through the cleat to prevent the block sliding below the bolt. If you ever have to replace the line form the block to the rudder, then cut it long enough. Then attach line to the rudder head with the rudder in the up position. If you wish to add more purchase, then remove the single block and a double block. That does help. Crazya Dave
 
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Brian

I don't think water ballast would help much

In order to add the water ballast you have to have a pocket for the water to fill. With the pocket empty it will float more since the density of the air is much less than the density of the water. With the pocket full the bouyancy of the water is neutral since the density is the same as the water outside. You would get a slight improvement by removing some of the bouyant material in the rudder to make room for the water but that would be it. To weigh down the rudder you need something denser than water. To make the rudder sink it would have to be sufficiently denser to overcome the rudders bouyancy. Also since salt water is denser than fresh water the problem is likely worse in salt water. I haven't had any real problem with mine in fresh water.
 
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