26 Jib Track Install

[nosnebjim]

I purchased new sails for my 95 H26. I now have a 107 jib. Precision Sails recommend it as the largest head sail for the boat configuration. I will be installing jib tracks to accommodate the need for adjustment for the clew position. The information I am seeking is the top deck thickness so I can plan for the appropriate fasteners. My boat is put away for a long winter's nap and I can't access it.
Thanks

 

[rgranger]

I have also wanted to put in a track for the sheet blocks and have thought about this a lot. It will not be a straight forward job. All of the other stress bearing deck hardware on the H26 is secured into threaded aluminum plates that are glassed into the hull. If you look at the standing sheet block for your genoa, you can see the block sits on a raised section of the deck. The fasteners for the block are threaded into an aluminum plate under the block.

As I see it, there are two challenges to overcome.

1) Because of the raised section in the deck where the current block sits, you cannot lay your new track over that location.

2) You will need to cut into the headliner in order to put backing plats or large washers on the fasteners of your new track.

If you do decide to proceed, please post your solutions. I would also like to add T-tracks for my genoa cars .... and someday add a traveler for the main sheet.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Both of you have a ceiling liner held in place by marine putty; thus, you are going to do either or.
Mark the holes on top for a Genoa track behind on top of the cockpit seat coaming or in case of a traveler in front of the companionway. Drill a pilot hole to go thru deck and ceiling liner. To access the deck underneath, you will need to cut a larger hole in the ceiling liner. BEFORE YOU DO CHECK
ACE HARDWARE OR COMPRABLE STORE FOR CIRCULAR CAPS THAT COME IN VARIOUS SIZES THAT COME IN TAN, black or white and determine the size you feel comfortable to install washer and locknut. When finished simply install cap which snaps in. Never use screws as over time they will loosen and leak.
You could use metal pipe extending from the bottom of the deck just to outside ceiling liner using a washer and locknut but requires longer bolts and will protrude out and in the case of traveler sticking out subject to top of head hitting bolt/nut

 

[rgranger]

Thanks Dave

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Call if you need help. I will help move you back my friend

 

[nosnebjim]

Thanks for your input Dave
The track that I have has a bolt hole about every 2".
pretty small holes (I believe #8)
I should be able to get 2 for 1 or more on the bottom side access holes.

 

[nosnebjim]

Do you think that a tweeker block set up could do the same thing?

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

not sure of a tweeker block

 

[DrJudyB]

Rather than trying to get the exact length you’ll need, here’s an alternative to consider.

Consider getting machine screws that are all at least a half or 3/4 or 1 inch too long. They will stick out on the inside after ,installation. After installation, bend the bolt with a needle nose vise grip two or three times until it breaks off. The machine screws will snap off at exactly the right length, right at the nut (nylock). It’s easy to file off any sharp edges that may (or may not) result.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

This now is experience speaking. Figure the height the track, add 1/4 inch fiberglass and then add one inch. Suggest getting two other bolts half and full inch Length onger. Drill test hole. What most do not know is construction of the boat that there generally a dead air space between the deck and interior ceiling. Boy I have seen some ceilings pushed upward by tightening up not figuring on the dead airspace between deck and ceiling.

 

[Goatman]

My plan is to purchase some 1/4" thick aluminum sheet material the same size or a little bigger than the track. Mark where the holes are located then drill and tap them to the screw thread size you plan on using. I have a Lowe's and Home Depot near the end of my street so I'll measure for the length of the screws after I take my old tracks off then pick up the ss screws. Silicone the heck out of the aluminum piece before mounting. If you're not able to tap the holes drilled you can get screws 1/2" longer and use ss nylon nuts. I'm thinking this will give the best support for the track.

I'm also planning on putting in two High Level grab bars a little further down from the tracks on each side and plan on doing the same thing.

If you don't have a tap set you can pick them up incredibly cheap at Harbor Freight or go the Lowe's/Home Depot route.

 

[rgranger]

I ended up going a different direction. The deck organizers will interfere with the genoa track so instead I added low friction rings on a block. I can pull the clew forward with these when pointing.

 

[Willemvan]

Here is what I have learned since I have owned my h26, I have a boat that will never be a racer, if I get 5 knots I’m happy as heck, enjoy the act of being in the water and moving without the noise of a motor and,,, I have the cheapest cabin on the the lake. Enjoy your boat as is. A new sail if needed and just keep her in good shape and enjoy her.

 

[rgranger]

I've done a lot since I first posted here on this topic.. I've added Barbour haulers on the genoa sheets. The definitely helps when pointing. I also added a traveler on the bridge deck. Again, I can point a little better. The H26 is already a decent pointer and now it is a little better. The traveler also helps on a reach since I can use twist to dump some wind and I don't have to reef so soon.

I also added a second deck organizer to port and three more rope clutches (to port). So all of my lines are now run to the cockpit. I can reef without leaving the cockpit but also importantly, I can adjust my topping lift and outhaul without leaving the cockpit. So when on a run, it is easy to fatten up the sail... I loosen the outhaul a little and nudge the topping lift up a little bit and then pull down on the vang. The main can really work a lot better now...and when working to windward in a stiffer breeze, I can really flatten the sail from the cockpit. Using the winch I can get the foot tighter and I've notice a real improvement. I'm hitting 6.2 fairly often now.

I was also in a Regatta recently and took third... I was keeping near the front anytime working to windward but fell behind when running. So if racing becomes a goal, I'll need to set her up for a spinnaker. But it is not a goal at the moment.