Just bought an O'day 25 that needs a centerboard pennant. Evidently the old one wore out and broke last season. Now a few facts...I live in Alaska that means two things. 1. Water is COLD you only get about 4 Minutes in the water before your muscles give out and you can't function...so diving under is out. 2. Hoisting the boat is EXPENSIVE. All three harbors in the area are getting $230.00 per hour to pull my boat and let her "hang" and they want 282 to lift onto jacks and 282 to put her back in the water. So I really want to be ready to do this job as soon as the boat is out. So keeping those things in mind. I have a couple of quick questions for those of you that have done this. First, do I need to do any epoxy/glass work on the CB where the shackle is going to go through? ( is the CB foam filled and going to rot if I don't seal it? ) Second, does anyone have any problem with the stainless shackles? Is brass better? Third, is there anything I have to do to make the shackle fit up into the keel? Will it fit in easy without binding up? Finally, how long do you think it would take to sail her to hawaii so I can do this for a reasonable price? Thanks so much for your help. Scott P.S. I've got lots of history in powerboats, but this is my first time in a sailboat -- So using small words is appreciated
25 CB pennant
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I replaced the pendant on the 25 we had last year,
but I did it pre launch and was able to have it lifted off the trailer enough to get at it. I ordered a replacement from Rudy at DR Marine. It is just a shackle that attaches to the centerboard - no epoxy or sealant needed, unless you have a pre-existing problem. You should be able to cut the old pendant, remove the shackle, and pull the new pendant through to the cockpit using the tail of the old one as a messenger. Maybe you could find a local diver (even a recreational diver) with a dry suit that would do it for you. Can't tell you how long to sail to Hawaii, I only have charts for the Great Lakes!
but I did it pre launch and was able to have it lifted off the trailer enough to get at it. I ordered a replacement from Rudy at DR Marine. It is just a shackle that attaches to the centerboard - no epoxy or sealant needed, unless you have a pre-existing problem. You should be able to cut the old pendant, remove the shackle, and pull the new pendant through to the cockpit using the tail of the old one as a messenger. Maybe you could find a local diver (even a recreational diver) with a dry suit that would do it for you. Can't tell you how long to sail to Hawaii, I only have charts for the Great Lakes!
There could be a change
I have a 1980 O25 and I have sort of a straight shot from the cockpit to the the CB. (Via a tube of some sort.) The original pennent was a rope and cable combo. I replaced it with a 1/4 in. dacron line and it worked very well. I just tied a short tight bowline knot at the CB. My CB is not very heavy and is easy to raise and lower. What I have been hearing, is that earlier models have a different method of handling the CB pennent. Have a good! Tom
I have a 1980 O25 and I have sort of a straight shot from the cockpit to the the CB. (Via a tube of some sort.) The original pennent was a rope and cable combo. I replaced it with a 1/4 in. dacron line and it worked very well. I just tied a short tight bowline knot at the CB. My CB is not very heavy and is easy to raise and lower. What I have been hearing, is that earlier models have a different method of handling the CB pennent. Have a good! Tom
There could be a change added
I have a 1980 O25 and I have sort of a straight shot from the cockpit to the the CB. (Via a tube of some sort.) The original pennent was a rope and cable combo. I replaced it with a 1/4 in. dacron line and it worked very well. I just tied a short tight bowline knot at the CB. My CB is not very heavy and is easy to raise and lower. What I have been hearing, is that earlier models have a different method of handling the CB pennent. No shackle to deal with. Have a good! Tom
I have a 1980 O25 and I have sort of a straight shot from the cockpit to the the CB. (Via a tube of some sort.) The original pennent was a rope and cable combo. I replaced it with a 1/4 in. dacron line and it worked very well. I just tied a short tight bowline knot at the CB. My CB is not very heavy and is easy to raise and lower. What I have been hearing, is that earlier models have a different method of handling the CB pennent. No shackle to deal with. Have a good! Tom
Opinions
1. and 2. It won't take long underwater to remove the old shackle and install a new one. You can about buy a suit for this one job and keep it for future use, sell it, or hire a diver to do it. I don't have an OD25 but my boat is set up about the same. There will be a tang or eye extending out of the trailing side of the board, and the shackle attaches to that. Access will be relatively easy with the board down. Just don't use a giant sized shackle, and it should fit fine (about a quarter-inch pin) - it was set up that way to start with. Yeah, needing to replace the centerboard pendant is a great excuse to sail to Hawaii. Then Tahiti so you can check the rudder bushings. In Australia you can really go over the chainplate attachments. It's a plan!
1. and 2. It won't take long underwater to remove the old shackle and install a new one. You can about buy a suit for this one job and keep it for future use, sell it, or hire a diver to do it. I don't have an OD25 but my boat is set up about the same. There will be a tang or eye extending out of the trailing side of the board, and the shackle attaches to that. Access will be relatively easy with the board down. Just don't use a giant sized shackle, and it should fit fine (about a quarter-inch pin) - it was set up that way to start with. Yeah, needing to replace the centerboard pendant is a great excuse to sail to Hawaii. Then Tahiti so you can check the rudder bushings. In Australia you can really go over the chainplate attachments. It's a plan!
Stainless v Brass
Thanks for the great advice, I found a diver for 150/hour and I think I'll have hime do it since it looks like there won't be any epoxy/glass work. The boat is usually trailerd, going to go in the water for weekends and once in a while week long trips. I know stainless needs air to keep from corroding, but with it in for only a day or two at a time I think it should hold up for longer than the line will. Unless someone knows something I don't about brass working better I think I will use stainless.
Thanks for the great advice, I found a diver for 150/hour and I think I'll have hime do it since it looks like there won't be any epoxy/glass work. The boat is usually trailerd, going to go in the water for weekends and once in a while week long trips. I know stainless needs air to keep from corroding, but with it in for only a day or two at a time I think it should hold up for longer than the line will. Unless someone knows something I don't about brass working better I think I will use stainless.
Trailer?
Why not put it on the trailer and do it? My trailer has a brace under the centerboard, but as long as I didn't have to to tow it any distance, I could pretty easialy put it on the trailer canted at an angle so the centerboard could be lowered (I know, I've done it accidentally before
)
Why not put it on the trailer and do it? My trailer has a brace under the centerboard, but as long as I didn't have to to tow it any distance, I could pretty easialy put it on the trailer canted at an angle so the centerboard could be lowered (I know, I've done it accidentally before
)wetsuit
As suggested, buy a wetsuit. Tie the boat to the dock, on one side, keep it 3 to 4 feet from the dock. On the other side of boat, take a halyard to another dock and through a mooring cleat, pull the boat over on its side. Two fellows might be able to pull it over far enough for you to not get your hair wet when findiing and feeling the bottom of the keel.
As suggested, buy a wetsuit. Tie the boat to the dock, on one side, keep it 3 to 4 feet from the dock. On the other side of boat, take a halyard to another dock and through a mooring cleat, pull the boat over on its side. Two fellows might be able to pull it over far enough for you to not get your hair wet when findiing and feeling the bottom of the keel.
try spectra or the like
These new lines are very strong and able to easily handle the loads. and in the dark will last a long time.
These new lines are very strong and able to easily handle the loads. and in the dark will last a long time.
You have the world's highest tide
and you want to haul it. HUH!! At low tide, Anchorage is surrounded by miles of dry land that is under water at high tide. Bring your boat to an area that is devoid of water at 1/2 tide and wait. You will have about six hours to complete your penant replacement and whatever other bottom work you have to do. If you don't complete the job, wait for the next tide. Since it is light 24 hours a day, you can take advantage of both tides. If that doesn't work for you, there are 50 SCUBA operations in the Anchorage area. Jim
and you want to haul it. HUH!! At low tide, Anchorage is surrounded by miles of dry land that is under water at high tide. Bring your boat to an area that is devoid of water at 1/2 tide and wait. You will have about six hours to complete your penant replacement and whatever other bottom work you have to do. If you don't complete the job, wait for the next tide. Since it is light 24 hours a day, you can take advantage of both tides. If that doesn't work for you, there are 50 SCUBA operations in the Anchorage area. Jim
A bit too risky
Good thought, but the problem is that in the cook inlet area around here the tidal beaches are mud-flats, this stuff is like quicksand and it sucks things in at low tide and you never get out. Every summer somebody goes a walkin on the flats and get sucked in and dies (if fact we had a small plane go down this week they can't even find the wreckage) My other option is all rock shale...we poor alaskans only know about nice sandy beaches by what we see in the brouchures for going south. At any rate, I had the harbor lift the boat on the travel lift this weekend and the repair went great. Thanks for all the advice. Now I have to learn to sail
Good thought, but the problem is that in the cook inlet area around here the tidal beaches are mud-flats, this stuff is like quicksand and it sucks things in at low tide and you never get out. Every summer somebody goes a walkin on the flats and get sucked in and dies (if fact we had a small plane go down this week they can't even find the wreckage) My other option is all rock shale...we poor alaskans only know about nice sandy beaches by what we see in the brouchures for going south. At any rate, I had the harbor lift the boat on the travel lift this weekend and the repair went great. Thanks for all the advice. Now I have to learn to sail
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