25.5 pop top questions

[Shane82]

1984 Hunter 25.5 "Daydreamer"

So I did some searching around and found out the two holes on my pop top is from someone sliding the hatch open too forcefully and smashing in the corners at the end of the channel where there used to be little bump stops.
I do get a little leakage from the top and the only solution I found was a guy said he took it off, drained it by drilling two small holes flushing it with acetone and then filling it with some 16 lbs worth of resin. It's an idea, structurally and to fill the holes. As for the extra weight, its either resin and dry, or water weight and wet. Any thoughts?
My other concern I couldn't find in the searches and it is the rubber strip that sits under the pop top as a seal and is screwed and glued in place. Its really old and practically useless. Any ideas for replacing this? I am working towards keeping the mud divers and wasp out from now on, including getting a companionway/hatch cover made and figuring out how to attach it...

Cleaning is coming along, Still have a bit to scrub out below the cabin sole, bilge and other drain areas. I hear some people talk about painting the bilge and other lower areas, any reason for this?

Last thought, I want to add some small chocks on the bow for the anchor line to sit in, when attaching cleats, chocks, etc to the deck is there a certain procedure or cautions I need to take?

I appreciate all insights and ideas

- Shane

 

[kaboboom]

Shane, as far as being a new Hunter 25.5 owner, I am in the same boat. I took off the wooden hand rails that hold the slide on the poptop, and varnished those, so I at least have had a good look at the area where you have the holes. I did read the thing about filling the poptop with resin, and that person must have been pretty determined. I guess I might consider a quicker possible fix. Rather than use acetone, I might consider using rubbing alcohol to help dry out the interior. I'd figure out how to get some help from gravity to drain the water out in place first, and I would consider using an air pump to both force the water out, and help dry the interior after adding some of the alcohol. Then I'd look into using foam insulation that comes in an aerosol can to fill the holes made by the slide as deeply as possible, and then top them off with silicone caulking after compressing the foam inside a bit with an unsharpend pencil to give the silicone a pocket to fill. As for the rubber seal, and I don't seem to have one on mine but there is a gap, you could get one that is normally used for car trunks. The 90's won't be in the right places, but a splice here and there, probably again using silicone, should do the trick. Not quite sure about your hatch cover issue. Mine is wood, and slides into a vertical track, the has a hasp to padlock with the poptop slide. Many of the boats I see in the marina use plexiglass instead of wood. I may not completely understand your issue because I don't know many sailing terms right now.

 

[Shane82]

Oh the companion way, is what you described, the 3 boards etc. Even with the gasket and the boards there is a decent sized gap just right for things the fly and crawl. You can make a cover using canvas and snap buttons. http://search.sailrite.com/category/fasteners-hooks-marine-snaps-canvas-fasteners ANd basically button the cover over the hatch/companionway opening. Still not perfect, but as good as it's gonna get.

Hey while your reading this, on your settee (seat in the galley) closest to the companionway at the table, is there a metal bar that goes diagonally from the back of the seat to the base? mine is there but not attached, and I'm not sure as to where it goes when you lay the seat back to make it into the bed. I cant seem to find a pic anywhere and I dont get back home til wednesday. Also, not sure if either of us have original sinks in the galley, but other than needing to sanitize and flush mine I need to know how it works. I dont see any kind of hand or foot pump...

 

[kaboboom]

trying again

Shane, I took some pics. The bar braces the 90 of the bench, then becomes a leg to support the inward corner when the pin is pulled to fold the bench flat.