Help. I moor my boat on a local lake. What is the proper way to secure the rudder/ tiller when moored? I used to put the tiller into the aluminum holder that fits in the cockpit where the table can also be mounted. This was the original round tube tiller. The tiller cracked and broke. I had it reinforced at the repair and welded. It broke again. I bought a replacement wooden tiller and have been tying the rudder off to a cleat. The rope rubs on my outboard and one of the bolts that secured the top bracket that the rudder mounts on stripped and was pulling out. Any help will be appreciated
23.5 Rudder/Tiller
- Thread starter Zerosfault
- Start date
I noticed that when moored if I tied the tiller it still rocked back and forth and started to work on the mounting bolt hole. To solve the problem I raise my rudder so that it is completely out of the water and fully vertical like it would be for trailering. It is the only way I have found to stop the waver and eventual tiller failure. There are several modifications shown in the the owner mods section on the SBO section is you look under the H23.5 stuff. Now that I'm putting my boat on a lift when I'm not sailing I don't have to pull the rudder above horizontal and it's fully out of the water so no wave action to beat on the tiller.
Seems like I've tried that but can't get the rudder past horizontal and it's still in the water. Next time we go out I'll try that again. Thanks!8-7
It's a challenge to get it above horizontal using the stock uphaul, I used a line with a loop in it and used that at the end of the rudder to get it all the way to vertical.
That's a good idea. I agree the stock uphaul doesn't get it where it needs to be. I'll try the line with a loop or I might be able to get it with my boat hook. Thanks again. It's always great to hear new ideas
For my 23, I use shock cords attached to the end of the tiller. May or may not work for your boat. I made a "cap" using a PVC fittings, that is a tubular coupler about 3 in long and big enough inner diam to fit over the end of the tiller, with threads on the inside ends, and a matching PVC end cap (plug) screwed in to one end. I took a piece of stainless wire (maybe 1/8 diam?) and threaded it through holes I drilled in the plug, and used cable clamps and thimbles to form a small eye on each end. This slides over the end of the tiller. 2 ft shock cords attach each end to the rods that serve as cleats on the stern of the 23. The shock cords let the rudder move back and forth some.
Now, if you can get the rudder completely up, I'd do that - not feasible on the 23; the best you can do (because of the aluminum bracket design) is about horizontal (even if you had a loop), which is even worse than leaving it fully down.
Now, if you can get the rudder completely up, I'd do that - not feasible on the 23; the best you can do (because of the aluminum bracket design) is about horizontal (even if you had a loop), which is even worse than leaving it fully down.
All good ideas! If I lift the rudder completely up I suppose it would still be smart to tie off the tiller?
ZE;
Follow the suggestions here, YOu could always swing the tiller over and tie it with a spare line to either port or starboard cleat. lf you really want to make sure, swing the rudder blade all the way up of course and take a line looped around it and then tie off to the cleat, boarding ladder, port stern rail seats if up have them and that will help too vs, tying off the tiller itself but the key for you is the rudder blade up all the way.
Follow the suggestions here, YOu could always swing the tiller over and tie it with a spare line to either port or starboard cleat. lf you really want to make sure, swing the rudder blade all the way up of course and take a line looped around it and then tie off to the cleat, boarding ladder, port stern rail seats if up have them and that will help too vs, tying off the tiller itself but the key for you is the rudder blade up all the way.
On our H23.5, we have a large-opening D-shackle on the trailing edge of the rudder, about at the midpoint. The hole is sealed with epoxy to prevent saturation of the core. We use the uphaul to get the rudder to horizontal, then snag the shackle with a boat hook. The 0.000001 kts loss of boat speed due to drag doesn't bother me!
I have two rail cleats spread wide on the aft rail and a line with a snap shackle at the midpoint. I attach the snap shackle to the rudder shackle & center the rudder between the cleats. It keeps the rudder from dropping down and helps decrease waggle. I also have a PCV pipe, 2", I think (maybe 1.5") & T on top. The tiller goes into the T and the pipe goes into the cockpit table leg holder. This also decreases waggle. I use this often for brief moments to keep the course steady when initially motoring out while tending to other tasks.
When we're anchored or at the slip, we will push the tiller to starboard and tie it off. Obviously, you can't move the table to the cockpit if the tiller's in the way. Depending on how long we anchor -- and how much we are dancing due to wind or current -- we might leave the rudder down. Lifting the rudder seems to help decrease any dancing on the rode, which is a bit of a problem with our high freeboard.
If I'm leaving her at the slip and snotty weather is expected, I'll use a line to put a clove hitch on the tiller and affix either end to the aft cleats. I push the knot as far forward as I can and it holds the tiller very snuggly.
I have two rail cleats spread wide on the aft rail and a line with a snap shackle at the midpoint. I attach the snap shackle to the rudder shackle & center the rudder between the cleats. It keeps the rudder from dropping down and helps decrease waggle. I also have a PCV pipe, 2", I think (maybe 1.5") & T on top. The tiller goes into the T and the pipe goes into the cockpit table leg holder. This also decreases waggle. I use this often for brief moments to keep the course steady when initially motoring out while tending to other tasks.
When we're anchored or at the slip, we will push the tiller to starboard and tie it off. Obviously, you can't move the table to the cockpit if the tiller's in the way. Depending on how long we anchor -- and how much we are dancing due to wind or current -- we might leave the rudder down. Lifting the rudder seems to help decrease any dancing on the rode, which is a bit of a problem with our high freeboard.
If I'm leaving her at the slip and snotty weather is expected, I'll use a line to put a clove hitch on the tiller and affix either end to the aft cleats. I push the knot as far forward as I can and it holds the tiller very snuggly.
Karyon, yes, I installed the hatch and bedded it with sealant, so it's dry. It is the only way to make any use of that area for storage.
I also installed a port -- just out of view in the second picture -- forward of the starboard locker. It provides some light and ventilation for the aft berth.
I also installed a port -- just out of view in the second picture -- forward of the starboard locker. It provides some light and ventilation for the aft berth.
I copied Rick Webb's rudder lock about 12 years ago. Works great and keeps the strain off the bolt through the tiller.
VT;
Suggest that the wood block or motor mount be removed and sanded/varnished. It would last a lot longer. Good set up and you did your search on what works. You get the atta a boy award for that sir. Great work.
Suggest that the wood block or motor mount be removed and sanded/varnished. It would last a lot longer. Good set up and you did your search on what works. You get the atta a boy award for that sir. Great work.