I recently bought a 1993 hunter 23.5 which came with a snapfurl roller furling. All of the information I can find on the web and in the Owners manual about mast raising uses a gin pole. However, I didn't receive one from the previous owner. I raised the mast last week-end with help from two people. We simply walked it up using the 4:1 purchase system to keep tension on the roller furling. Was this right? Once we got it up we had to attach the roller furling to the bow cleat of the boat - this was an ordeal. Is there a way to take the tension off the roller furling? It took two of us about 30 minutes to do this. Does anyone have an easier way? I have more questions as well. I am still tring to figure out why there are three lines in the boom. The manual labels them reef line, outhaul, and boom topping lift. I know that I attach the boom topping lift from the mast head to the back of the boom and I know that reefing is letting your sails down in strong wind, but how do I use the outhaul line. Also, what do I use the ramshead hooks for?
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Bob
23.5 mast stepping
Allen I can’t find the link right now, but there is a post for a similar system that I built from Home Depot parts that works great. I can single-handedly step (Raise or lower) the mast on my 1986 23.5 in about 30 minutes. The link below will give you a good idea of how the system works. On mine, the outhaul is attached to the clew of the sail to haul it out the boom. The rams head is part of the reeking system my mainsail has a grommet that hooks into the rams head to reef. Bob Noble Sv Miss Lisa
Allen I can’t find the link right now, but there is a post for a similar system that I built from Home Depot parts that works great. I can single-handedly step (Raise or lower) the mast on my 1986 23.5 in about 30 minutes. The link below will give you a good idea of how the system works. On mine, the outhaul is attached to the clew of the sail to haul it out the boom. The rams head is part of the reeking system my mainsail has a grommet that hooks into the rams head to reef. Bob Noble Sv Miss Lisa
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Hayden Jones
You have the same questions I had when
I first got my 1993 Hunter 23.5. 1. To bad about the gin pole it makes it a lot easier to raise the mast. You may be able to get one from Hunter. Do you have the two stablizing shrouds that attach to the two forwrd stanchions and the mast (about 5 ft up on each side? They keep the mast stable as it goes up. 2. I use the jib halyard (cleat it off on the mast) and the main sheet or boom vang to pull the mast upright keeping tension on the head stay (roller furler) so it doesn't slip out of the connecting notch near the top of the mast. I had lots of trouble the first year. The I learned to pull the pin out of the roller furler, push the pieces apart and adjust the toggel underneath to put slack inthe head stay. Once attached to the boat, I tighten the toggel, reassemble the roller furler and Put the sails on. It takes a few minutes at most but saves a lot of pulling and tugging. While doing this I have the Jib Halyard servce as a head stay, keeping the mast upright. I tighten it a lot to keep all tension off the jib stay (roller furler). 3. Line one is for reeefing the sails. I attach the line (at booms end) through the gromet about 4 ft up the back of the sail using a bosons knot. When not reefed the line is slack. To reef, I forward, lose the main halyard, drop the sail about 4 feet, placing the gromet on the sail (the one closest to the mast) over the ram horn. Then I pull onthe reefing line and the back of the sail drops down and is pulled tight. I then use a sail tie down at the back of the sail to keep it close in to the boom. 4. The outhaul line is attached to the gromit at the end of the sail that is in the slot on the boom. It is used to pull the sail all the way out on the boom and keep it snug. 5. I don't use the topping lift line, INstead I have my topping lift line tied tot he end of the boom. I am in the process of changing that but still don't envision using the internal boom line. Hope this helps. More questions? Try me at hayden_jones@renolan.com Fair Winds Hayden
I first got my 1993 Hunter 23.5. 1. To bad about the gin pole it makes it a lot easier to raise the mast. You may be able to get one from Hunter. Do you have the two stablizing shrouds that attach to the two forwrd stanchions and the mast (about 5 ft up on each side? They keep the mast stable as it goes up. 2. I use the jib halyard (cleat it off on the mast) and the main sheet or boom vang to pull the mast upright keeping tension on the head stay (roller furler) so it doesn't slip out of the connecting notch near the top of the mast. I had lots of trouble the first year. The I learned to pull the pin out of the roller furler, push the pieces apart and adjust the toggel underneath to put slack inthe head stay. Once attached to the boat, I tighten the toggel, reassemble the roller furler and Put the sails on. It takes a few minutes at most but saves a lot of pulling and tugging. While doing this I have the Jib Halyard servce as a head stay, keeping the mast upright. I tighten it a lot to keep all tension off the jib stay (roller furler). 3. Line one is for reeefing the sails. I attach the line (at booms end) through the gromet about 4 ft up the back of the sail using a bosons knot. When not reefed the line is slack. To reef, I forward, lose the main halyard, drop the sail about 4 feet, placing the gromet on the sail (the one closest to the mast) over the ram horn. Then I pull onthe reefing line and the back of the sail drops down and is pulled tight. I then use a sail tie down at the back of the sail to keep it close in to the boom. 4. The outhaul line is attached to the gromit at the end of the sail that is in the slot on the boom. It is used to pull the sail all the way out on the boom and keep it snug. 5. I don't use the topping lift line, INstead I have my topping lift line tied tot he end of the boom. I am in the process of changing that but still don't envision using the internal boom line. Hope this helps. More questions? Try me at hayden_jones@renolan.com Fair Winds Hayden
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Rick Macdonald
Hayden - it doesn't sound quite right
After the first reefing line and the outhaul, the third slot in the boom is intended for a second reef. The topping lift is attached to the end of the boom. Hayden - Mine is a 1995 23.5 but I imagine they are the same. The reefing line should exit the aft end of the boom, go around the sheeve and up at an angle a few feet to the cringle as you describe, but then go straight down to a shackle or loop of some sort that is in the slide track on the bottom of the boom. IE, it's similar to the connectors for the boom vang and main sheet. Mine is free to slide in the track. This is right from the diagram in the manual. Mine was actually run incorrectly when I bought the boat used last year. I just fixed it a few weeks ago and it is much better. Rigged properly, the one line pulls the sail both down and back. I could never get the cringle (grommet) closer than 6 inches to the boom before but now it goes right down. You shouldn't need to add the sail tie to keep it down on the boom.
After the first reefing line and the outhaul, the third slot in the boom is intended for a second reef. The topping lift is attached to the end of the boom. Hayden - Mine is a 1995 23.5 but I imagine they are the same. The reefing line should exit the aft end of the boom, go around the sheeve and up at an angle a few feet to the cringle as you describe, but then go straight down to a shackle or loop of some sort that is in the slide track on the bottom of the boom. IE, it's similar to the connectors for the boom vang and main sheet. Mine is free to slide in the track. This is right from the diagram in the manual. Mine was actually run incorrectly when I bought the boat used last year. I just fixed it a few weeks ago and it is much better. Rigged properly, the one line pulls the sail both down and back. I could never get the cringle (grommet) closer than 6 inches to the boom before but now it goes right down. You shouldn't need to add the sail tie to keep it down on the boom.
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Ed Allen
worth a thousand words
see if this helps. - ed there seems to be a problem for me viewing the photo, but try this web address for answers to many of the 23.5/240 questions.
see if this helps. - ed there seems to be a problem for me viewing the photo, but try this web address for answers to many of the 23.5/240 questions.
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Ed
Forestay Attachment
One thing I've noticed when attaching the forestay on my 23.5 is that having a second person hold the forestay to take the sag out of it provides enough slack to put the pin in it easily. Otherwise as you've found it take a lot of tugging, sweating, frustration and cursing. The gin pole or mast raising tube is 1" aluminum tubing 6'4.5" long with a short 4" double ended cable to hold the halyard and tackle. The end that goes into the mast has a semi-circular notch in it. If you can't get one from Hunter I would imagine that a piece of rigid conduit would work. The two bridle cables to hold the mast centered could be made from standard hardware store issue cable and caribiners. I'd try Hunter first before getting creative.
One thing I've noticed when attaching the forestay on my 23.5 is that having a second person hold the forestay to take the sag out of it provides enough slack to put the pin in it easily. Otherwise as you've found it take a lot of tugging, sweating, frustration and cursing. The gin pole or mast raising tube is 1" aluminum tubing 6'4.5" long with a short 4" double ended cable to hold the halyard and tackle. The end that goes into the mast has a semi-circular notch in it. If you can't get one from Hunter I would imagine that a piece of rigid conduit would work. The two bridle cables to hold the mast centered could be made from standard hardware store issue cable and caribiners. I'd try Hunter first before getting creative.
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Ed
Rick -
What kind of change did you do to the reefing configuration to get the aft cringle down to the boom? The closest I can get it to the boom is about 6". I was considering tying it to the boom with a short piece of line.
What kind of change did you do to the reefing configuration to get the aft cringle down to the boom? The closest I can get it to the boom is about 6". I was considering tying it to the boom with a short piece of line.
Ed - how to pull reef cringle all the way down
Try rigging the reefing line as follows (assuming the reef line is on the stbd side of the boom): From the end of the boom go up to the reef cringle at the leech and go through from stbd to port. From there, go straight down to the boom and fasten the line underneath with a stopper knot. Tightening the reef line from the mast pulls the cringle back and down onto the boom simultaneously. This arrangement also keeps the new foot of the mainsail tight. If your mainsail has a second cringle just above the boom and directly below the reefing cringle, pass the line through from port to stbd first before securing it under the boom. A piece of light line through the smaller reefing eyes between the reef cringle and the rams horn will secure the reefed portion of the sail neatly on the boom. Peter H23 "Raven"
Try rigging the reefing line as follows (assuming the reef line is on the stbd side of the boom): From the end of the boom go up to the reef cringle at the leech and go through from stbd to port. From there, go straight down to the boom and fasten the line underneath with a stopper knot. Tightening the reef line from the mast pulls the cringle back and down onto the boom simultaneously. This arrangement also keeps the new foot of the mainsail tight. If your mainsail has a second cringle just above the boom and directly below the reefing cringle, pass the line through from port to stbd first before securing it under the boom. A piece of light line through the smaller reefing eyes between the reef cringle and the rams horn will secure the reefed portion of the sail neatly on the boom. Peter H23 "Raven"
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Rick Macdonald
Ed - see the other Ed's photo and link
Ed - the other Ed posted a link to the diagram from the manual that I followed which is what Peter also describes. It should be clear to everyone now.
Ed - the other Ed posted a link to the diagram from the manual that I followed which is what Peter also describes. It should be clear to everyone now.
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MIke Pajewski
Don't use conduit!!!!!!!!!!
I teach maintenance and industrial safety at a Nuclear Power Plant. Conduit is made of soft galvanized thin wall tubing and can be readily bent by hand with the proper conduit bending tool (or a tree, post, etc). The gin poles for the 26 & 23.5 are made of thick wall aluminum, which is much stronger. If you are lucky, the conduit will bend as soon as you tension the mainsheet. Worst case would be for the mast to come up and then the conduit suddenly fails. The mast could fall on someone, causing serious injury or death!
I teach maintenance and industrial safety at a Nuclear Power Plant. Conduit is made of soft galvanized thin wall tubing and can be readily bent by hand with the proper conduit bending tool (or a tree, post, etc). The gin poles for the 26 & 23.5 are made of thick wall aluminum, which is much stronger. If you are lucky, the conduit will bend as soon as you tension the mainsheet. Worst case would be for the mast to come up and then the conduit suddenly fails. The mast could fall on someone, causing serious injury or death!
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crazy dave
Conduit pipe for raising, this is BS
I applaud Mike P. for his stand on the non use of conduit piping. For the record, anyone using plastic conduit piping for a mast raise system is totally unsafe and stupid. I have seen the aftermath of such an idea but luckly no one was hurt except for the boat. When I read some of the ideas on the forum I shake my head but when it comes to safety, watch out. For those of you who do not know me, you can say I am the godfather of water ballast Hunters and safety is a big ticket item with me. Crazy Dave Condon
I applaud Mike P. for his stand on the non use of conduit piping. For the record, anyone using plastic conduit piping for a mast raise system is totally unsafe and stupid. I have seen the aftermath of such an idea but luckly no one was hurt except for the boat. When I read some of the ideas on the forum I shake my head but when it comes to safety, watch out. For those of you who do not know me, you can say I am the godfather of water ballast Hunters and safety is a big ticket item with me. Crazy Dave Condon
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Ed
Conduit
It is true that thinwall conduit is easy to bend and I would NOT recommend using it. I stated RIGID conduit which has a much thicker wall and does not bend easily. I agree that safety should always be considered as a factor.
It is true that thinwall conduit is easy to bend and I would NOT recommend using it. I stated RIGID conduit which has a much thicker wall and does not bend easily. I agree that safety should always be considered as a factor.
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Rick Webb
My Plan
For the reefing outhaul was to rivet a cheek block and a cam cleat on the boom. The block just aft of where the reefing grommet meets the boom and the cam cleat towards the aft end of the boom. As for the gin pole I would not screw around with anything less than the size and strenght of tubing that Hunter provided and would be sure that the end is forked like on the original one.
For the reefing outhaul was to rivet a cheek block and a cam cleat on the boom. The block just aft of where the reefing grommet meets the boom and the cam cleat towards the aft end of the boom. As for the gin pole I would not screw around with anything less than the size and strenght of tubing that Hunter provided and would be sure that the end is forked like on the original one.
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Ed
Thanks Rick
I appreciate the info on the reefing prospects. It sounds like it could help. Have you converted to a single line reefing system or are you using the stock reefing system other than the cheeck block? You are right on the gin pole strength comment. The reason I suggested the ridid conduit was because of the similarities to the aluminum pole. I would not suggest someone compromise safety for a quick solution. I've spent too many years with industrial safety to put someone's well being in jeopardy. If it doesn't seem safe don't do it.
I appreciate the info on the reefing prospects. It sounds like it could help. Have you converted to a single line reefing system or are you using the stock reefing system other than the cheeck block? You are right on the gin pole strength comment. The reason I suggested the ridid conduit was because of the similarities to the aluminum pole. I would not suggest someone compromise safety for a quick solution. I've spent too many years with industrial safety to put someone's well being in jeopardy. If it doesn't seem safe don't do it.
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Rick Webb
Ed
The grommet on the luff of the sail will still go over the ram's head. You will still have to go forward to release the halyard. I did my topping lift the same way but with the cheek block aft of the cam cleat.
The grommet on the luff of the sail will still go over the ram's head. You will still have to go forward to release the halyard. I did my topping lift the same way but with the cheek block aft of the cam cleat.
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