OK, one more stupid question. Replacing all my running rigging. What knot (or other attachment method) would you use to attach the topping lift to the masthead? Or for that matter the boom. I've always used a sliding knot at the boom end so I can easily adjust the topping lift.
23.5 attaching topping lift to masthead
- Thread starter travelingjerryb
- Start date
I would use an eye splice on a thimble at the masthead. Use whatever you want down below, because it should be easily reached and repaired if necessary.
Simple bowline at the masthead with a 1/4 inch line as that is what was supplied if memory recalls.
I'd suggest an eye splice with thimble and a shackle. I'd be a little wary of wear on a line with no thimble up there.
As for the boom side, the topping lift is designed to enter the boom through an aft end sheave, then go through the inside of the boom and come out of a gooseneck cam cleat.
As for the boom side, the topping lift is designed to enter the boom through an aft end sheave, then go through the inside of the boom and come out of a gooseneck cam cleat.
I use to put a turning block on the back end of the boom and there is one block plate that is curved and pop riveted that in on the side if you are right handed or left handed and ran forward say for example 18 inches to a cleat.
I've had one reply stating they ran the topping lift through the boom to the third unused cam cleat at the goose neck end. I would need a longer topping lift. Ever tried this?
Yes, my H23.5 is rigged that way and, yes, you need a much longer line, but that's how it's designed.
Here is the page from the H240/260 manual, but it's the same on the H23.5/26:
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Thank you VT. I think I may give that a try. And WOW! Your manual looks MUCH better than mine. Mine doesn't even have page numbers.
You're welcome... And, that's not actually my manual. I have the same boat as you! I have an electronic copy of our H23.5 manual somewhere, but this one was the first one I found.
One thing to consider: after you run this line, put a figure-8 stopper knot in it so if the cleat releases, the boom doesn't crash on to the cockpit sole. Our stopper knot limits the scope to about a foot below parallel.
One thing to consider: after you run this line, put a figure-8 stopper knot in it so if the cleat releases, the boom doesn't crash on to the cockpit sole. Our stopper knot limits the scope to about a foot below parallel.
Yes, I'm not the biggest fan of those cam cleats. Have often considered attaching a small horn cleat to the boom for the outhaul/reefing lines. Thank you.
VT;
Excellent point to refresh our thoughts about that stopper knot as the forward boom cam cleat and one reason after years of use, it in a sense the jaws wear out even with new lines applied.
I also use to attach a small v jam at the back of the boom for a quick release which made it easy to lift or lower the boom quickly. After lowering the mainsail and flaking the front first, I use to teach my clients to then walk to the back of the boom, quickly lower it and start flaking it and of course attaching two to three lines which I found to be the quickest way to stow. I never was a fan of the forward boom hand lever jam cleat as it required more time to walk forward to raise up not to mention it at times would loosen up allowing the back of the boom to fall down unless it had a stopper knot in it. By the way I did put a stopper knot as a safety precaution.
Excellent point to refresh our thoughts about that stopper knot as the forward boom cam cleat and one reason after years of use, it in a sense the jaws wear out even with new lines applied.
I also use to attach a small v jam at the back of the boom for a quick release which made it easy to lift or lower the boom quickly. After lowering the mainsail and flaking the front first, I use to teach my clients to then walk to the back of the boom, quickly lower it and start flaking it and of course attaching two to three lines which I found to be the quickest way to stow. I never was a fan of the forward boom hand lever jam cleat as it required more time to walk forward to raise up not to mention it at times would loosen up allowing the back of the boom to fall down unless it had a stopper knot in it. By the way I did put a stopper knot as a safety precaution.
I can't help with the way to attach the top of the topping lift to the mast, as I have a 23 and it has an aluminum mast crane that may be different from yours. The boom does have the 3 sheaves like in the illustration.
One improvement you may want to consider if you intend to run a longer line through he boom: cut the current TL so it is about 2 to 3 feet short of the end of the boom when it is horizontal (I don't know if yours is wire like mine or line). Attach a small swivel block to the bottom end of this shortened "standing" part of the TL. Tie the new TL line to the end of the cast fitting at aft end of the boom, run it up through the swivel block and then down, routing it through the sheave and up the boom as diagrammed. That won't help with the issue of having to go forward to adjust it, but does give you a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage, making it easier to raise/lower the boom and also there would be half the force trying to "unjam" the jam cleat lever. Personally, I have not had mine slip even when tightening on the main sheet, but I do use a stopper (via the coiling of the excess line).
I also fashioned a sort of "line cleat" with a small nylon horn cleat and some screw eyes, that I clamped to the "running" TL line about 3 inches above where it ties to the boom aft fitting. I can pull in the TL from the cockpit, and tie it off to that cleat for convenience and temporary boom raising, and later go forward to adjust it at the jam cleat. That is mainly so I can lift the boom after lowering the main, so I can deploy my (oversized) bimini under the boom.
One improvement you may want to consider if you intend to run a longer line through he boom: cut the current TL so it is about 2 to 3 feet short of the end of the boom when it is horizontal (I don't know if yours is wire like mine or line). Attach a small swivel block to the bottom end of this shortened "standing" part of the TL. Tie the new TL line to the end of the cast fitting at aft end of the boom, run it up through the swivel block and then down, routing it through the sheave and up the boom as diagrammed. That won't help with the issue of having to go forward to adjust it, but does give you a 2 to 1 mechanical advantage, making it easier to raise/lower the boom and also there would be half the force trying to "unjam" the jam cleat lever. Personally, I have not had mine slip even when tightening on the main sheet, but I do use a stopper (via the coiling of the excess line).
I also fashioned a sort of "line cleat" with a small nylon horn cleat and some screw eyes, that I clamped to the "running" TL line about 3 inches above where it ties to the boom aft fitting. I can pull in the TL from the cockpit, and tie it off to that cleat for convenience and temporary boom raising, and later go forward to adjust it at the jam cleat. That is mainly so I can lift the boom after lowering the main, so I can deploy my (oversized) bimini under the boom.
Excellent idea isaksp00! That would also eliminate the need to rethread the topping lift through the boom every time you restep the mast, remove the boom. Thank you!
And that way I don't have to buy a whole new longer topping lift, just enough line to go through the boom!
Running the topping lift through the boom is a pain in the ass.
It will make the topping lift virtually unusable as you have to go all the way to the mast to cleat it and to remove the boom and store the boom in the cabin is a hassle. I did just as Dave suggested and put a block at the end of the boom along with a cleat and it is possible to adjust the topping lift with one hand while standing at the tiller.
It will make the topping lift virtually unusable as you have to go all the way to the mast to cleat it and to remove the boom and store the boom in the cabin is a hassle. I did just as Dave suggested and put a block at the end of the boom along with a cleat and it is possible to adjust the topping lift with one hand while standing at the tiller.
These are both good ideas. If I leave the topping lift as is, inserting that break would be very useful. Thanks isak.
Alternatively, Rick, your recapitulation of Dave's idea resonates with me. If I went that route, it would free up a line for a second reef.
Alternatively, Rick, your recapitulation of Dave's idea resonates with me. If I went that route, it would free up a line for a second reef.
VT;
Not good with computers. I also did another thing too. I would leave the big knot in the forward end of the boom next to the mast for lack of terms so it would not come out. I would then tie a bowline on the other end leaving about a foot with a shackle attached to a two sheave block with a V jam on the back side of the sheave. Then I ran the topping lift thru the top sheave and around the bottom sheave exiting over the V Jam which was a lot quicker to release and secure. The block I am referring to was used in small boat boom vangs and it worked for small boats.
Not good with computers. I also did another thing too. I would leave the big knot in the forward end of the boom next to the mast for lack of terms so it would not come out. I would then tie a bowline on the other end leaving about a foot with a shackle attached to a two sheave block with a V jam on the back side of the sheave. Then I ran the topping lift thru the top sheave and around the bottom sheave exiting over the V Jam which was a lot quicker to release and secure. The block I am referring to was used in small boat boom vangs and it worked for small boats.