216 ballasting, motor size, etc.

[Bob Cowgill]

Hot from Lind's mouth at Hunter:1. OK to use sandbags along the centerboard trunk as ballast. No worries about localized stress to the hull. I'm going to start at 400 lbs and back off 50 lbs at a time until I find the "sweet spot".2. Although my manual and the Coast Guard placard on the hull state that the boat can handle up to a 15 hp (!) motor, the dealer and other folks tell me that the 4hp Nissan 4-stroke I have on it is the largest motor you can use.According to Hunter, the boat is structurally capable of taking the 15 hp rig, but the weight of that large of a motor would really make the boat drag it's tail.My approximately 70 lb 4 hp motor is ALREADY doing that.Plus, as you are all aware, this boat doesn't NEED 15 hp to get out of the marina!Our new jib is on it's way from North Sails in Sri Lanka, so the old one will be getting repaired to put us back on the water at the conclusion of the V-berth project.Bob

 

[sunapeejoe]

Just a verification

I have been using tube sand bags for sailing this past summer. $5.oo each, 75 lbs. each. 2 on each side of centerline, 300 lbs. total. Each side tied and braced to prevent movement.Helped considerably in higher winds, to a point. Have experienced same conditions, which prompted your request from Hunter. I use a 6 HP Merc 4 stroke, wt. 53 lbs. Quiet, more zip, eco. sound and burns less gas. Stayed away from other motors, too much wt. Good luck!

 

[Rock Smith]

Tie off

Good news on ballasting. Any suggesiotns on how you tie-off to secure bags from moving?

 

[Jacktar]

Where do you put it?

Where does the ballast,like tubes of sand go? Aft of the cuddy, under the the seats, maybe? And how does it get secured? Help! Thanks!

 

[sunapeejoe]

Ballast

Tubes of sand are obtained at local hardware store.The tube is tightly rapped and does not leak any sand. They are app. 3 to 3.5 ft. long and 75 lbs. each. They are laid on the bottom of the boat, aft of the netting, separating the cutty from the unfinished portion of the boat, along the keel wall. Tie the two bags together. Purchase two shower adjustable rods at the local hardware store, app. 4to5 ft. closed length. Put one end against the outer sand bag and expand the length of the rod to the hull, to create a bracing that does not move. Simple but it works!!!!!!!!!

 

[Ranger Paul18580]

Reefing Instead of Extra Ballast?

I do a lot of lake sailing/racing where the wind is variable (variable is a kind word in my judgement). In light winds with a full crew, I would not want the extra weight of the ballast. Plus the ballast is 3' higher than the ideal location (at the bottom of the centerboard). I think I would rather try reefing. Unfortunately the stock sails only have one reef point. I am thinking about sending my sails to a sailmaker and having extra reef point grommets installed. I am thinking about three sets of reef points. Too bad I can't afford roller reefing!By marking my main halyard, I figure I could reef reasonably easily while underway...drop the halyard to the desired reef point, tighten the cunningham, and secure the back of the main. Obviously reefing at the dock is far preferable if the wind can be calculated.Here's an example of my thought process: At the Whiskeytown Regatta last spring, the Saturday morning wind was light. I lost one of my crew to illness so was sailing my 216 shorthanded...which was fine with me as the wind was light. Just before the afternoon race, the wind really kicked up. We hid in the lee of an island for awhile until the race started. If I could have reduced my mainsail area by 25% right then, I would have. As it was, we were way overpowered for the crew weight and lost a lot of potential speed due to the excessive heel. Yeah...it was fun but I didn't win the race.I am basically a dinghy sailor with the 216 being my foray into keel boats...if a lead centerboard can be called a keel. I have never reefed in my life as my Geary 18 has no reefing capability. Any comments I can get about my plan would be appreciated.