2012 Tohatsu 6hp?

markwbird · Oct 6, 2018

I had a 2006 version. It’s not a great engine but it did the job. The big issue was ethanol. Very susceptible to ethanol problems. Ran for about 45 min on a freshly cleaned out carb before gumming up and quitting. 2006 was the beginning of the ethanol era so mine did not have ethanol resistance fuel lines. I assume the 2012 does.

seadaddler · Oct 6, 2018

Most outboards have problems with Ethanol and hand. 2002 Yamaha 2 stroke
always stop running when needed it the most and rebuilt the carb and started using Ethanol free
gas and added Seafoam every tank and always ran great.
Nick

Leeward Rail · Oct 6, 2018

markwbird said:
Very susceptible to ethanol problems.

Like ANY other small engine.
Use high octane fuel without ethanol.

I suspect that the 2012 is the same as the 2018.
If it was used on a sailboat, it will likely have almost no hours on it.
Only common complaint I've heard is about the friction system for the tiller.

$500 seems a great price. 20 year old, worn out outboards sell for that were I live.
@Gene Neill posted recently about some shaft play he had on his motor, but I've not seen that mentioned online before.

Sailm8 · Oct 6, 2018

I have 1996 5hp. It hates ethanol and the fuel plug that goes from the hose to the engine male mounted on the engine is proprietary. It looks just like the ones hanging on the hook at the boat store but something is different. Motor runs great and has a zillion hours on it.

Gene Neill · Oct 6, 2018

If it starts promptly and runs smoothly I would probably jump on it. Change the motor oil and lower unit oil. Run some Sea Foam through it just for luck.

From what I have been able to gather, impellers on these motors are such a PITA no one seems to change them preemptively. But on the other hand, they seem to last very well.

JRT · Oct 6, 2018

If it doesn't run great offer $400 and buy a replacement carb.

Benny17441 · Oct 6, 2018

If it has not been used in two years it is likely that the carburetor may be fouled. The Price is right and even if you have to purchase a new carburetor for a 20" shaft it will be a good price. Tohatsu/Nissan/Mecury all come from the same manufacturer.

Kings Gambit · Oct 7, 2018

Leeward Rail said:
Like ANY other small engine.
Use high octane fuel without ethanol.

The last time I took my 5-hp Tohatsu in for maintenance, a couple of weeks ago, the guy advised not to use high octane b/c it causes the engine to run hot. Right now I'm running on EtOH-free formula @ 96 octane but w/no sign of running hot.

Leeward Rail · Oct 7, 2018

Kings Gambit said:
The last time I took my 5-hp Tohatsu in for maintenance, a couple of weeks ago, the guy advised not to use high octane b/c it causes the engine to run hot.

I called the dealer I bought the motor from, and Tohatsu directly, when I bought the motor.
They both recommended using non-ethanol high octane, and to use a fuel stabilizer that doesn't contain alcohol.

The owners manual specs:
"Unleaded Regular Gasoline : R+M/2: 87 or higher RON: 91 or higher"

The dealer specifically said not to use Sea Foam as a stabilizer since it has isopropanol (alcohol) in it. Ok for cleaning use, but not for a stabilizer.
https://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/Sea-Foam-Motor-Treatment-SDS-v20161205-ENG.pdf

In Canada, you can buy 87, 89, 91, 94 at a gas station, so that leaves 91 and 94.

Alas, even some 91 and 94 in Canada now has Ethanol in it.
I'm lucky in that my Co-op station has 91 without ethanol

Maybe he was refering to the higher octane racing fuel that some people specially source and use ?

OTOH he may have been telling you handed down BS.
Some automotive techs we hire, pass on all sorts of BS to each other without technical info to back it up.
I suspect it all starts with some old guy passing on outdated technical info, that applied to products made when they were young or that they learned from someone long dead.

As you say, 96 is working fine from your experience.

When in doubt, ask the people who make the thing.

Gene Neill · Oct 7, 2018

rpludwig said:
all good advice guys...thx!

regarding impeller changeout, do-able, but clearly a PITA:

That is a great video! I saved it for future reference. I'll need it by and by!

As for octane ... my manual states: "US and Canada - having a posted pump octane rating of 87 (R+M)/2 minimum. Premium gasoline (92 [R+M]/2 octane) is also acceptable." It goes on to say "The fuel system components on your TOHATSU engine will withstand up to 10% alcohol in the gasoline".

SHAME SHAME SHAME on Tohatsu for that last part. Obviously they know better. I have no choice but to conclude they value a brisk replacement-parts business more than a reputation for trouble-free operation.

Mikem · Oct 7, 2018

I had a 5hp 2 stroke Tohatsu. Always used ethanol free gas. Flushed motor with fresh water after every use. Even after months of non use it started first or second pull. Just sold it for $500 after having it for 19 years. Point is I think Tohatsu is a good brand.

Gunni · Oct 7, 2018

Kings Gambit said:
The last time I took my 5-hp Tohatsu in for maintenance, a couple of weeks ago, the guy advised not to use high octane b/c it causes the engine to run hot. Right now I'm running on EtOH-free formula @ 96 octane but w/no sign of running hot.

You likely won’t see any sign of heat damage from too high octane fuel until the engine loses power because your exhaust valves are burned up. High octane fuel simply has a higher ignition temp, it does nothing for your carburetor or stored fuel.

thinwater · Oct 7, 2018

I've been running e-10 without trouble since the beginning:

Close the tank vent when not in use. Every time.
Top it off.
If it is an installed tank, use a silica gel drier to keep it dry.
Use a good anti-corrosion additive, such as Seafoam, Merc Quick Store, or Biobor EB. Every time. Some are snake oil, some don't do much, but these were impressive in the lab and field.

I dislike ethanol on ploitical grounds (it isn't green), but functionally it's not a big deal. Just learn the new rules. Keep it dry.

Honestly, I had most of my outboard problems pre-ethanol. A few years of learning, but few problems since then. I had a few old motors (lawn and outboard) die from non-compatible components, but that is a thing of the past for most of us. And yes, the high octane-is-better thing is pure myth. 35 years as a refinery chem engr.

Gene Neill · Oct 8, 2018

thinwater said:
I've been running e-10 without trouble since the beginning:

Close the tank vent when not in use. Every time.

Top it off.

If it is an installed tank, use a silica gel drier to keep it dry.

Use a good anti-corrosion additive, such as Seafoam, Merc Quick Store, or Biobor EB. Every time. Some are snake oil, some don't do much, but these were impressive in the lab and field.

I dislike ethanol on political grounds (it isn't green), but functionally it's not a big deal. Just learn the new rules.

Why not just buy uncontaminated fuel?

Leeward Rail · Oct 8, 2018

thinwater said:
high octane-is-better thing is pure myth

It's not, if you want to avoid ethanol and higher octane is your only ethanol free option.

Leeward Rail · Oct 8, 2018

rpludwig said:
what goop is he using (the white stuff), guessing lithium grease?...AND I didn't see him using any of those numerous gaskets from that parts package....???

That looks like a normal impeller swap for many outboards to me. Not a PITA really.
Ever since I fixed a friend's motor, I get sucked in to doing repairs for others now.
I use a tiny amount of silicone base lube when installing a new impeller like I would when using assembly lube for an automotive engine rebuild. If he is using lube in that video, I have no idea why he put it all over the gasket mating surfaces.

Depending on the kit, you won't need all the gaskets.
One shot in the video shows gaskets and the impeller plate which you don't usually replace unless you are taking the lower pump housing out due to the need for additional repairs.

I've pulled a apart a few for an impeller change and found they had pump damage. So I order a complete kit that includes an impeller, gaskets, impeller plate and housings, and just an impeller.
I then use one or the other. Saves me time having everything possible ready to go.
The goofy thing is, the impellers in the aftermarket kits seem not a well made as the aftermarket standalone impellers, so I have mixed an matched.
YMMV. I suspect that may be due to the suppliers my local outboard parts place uses.

JimInPB · Oct 8, 2018

I also prefer to use silicone based grease on rubber parts. Silicone plays well with rubber. Some other lubes do not.

Some guys grease their gaskets. Some guys soak them in oil overnight. Both these measures are attempts to make them easier to remove the next time you take the thing apart. Most guys I know put them on dry. Guys that use gasket cement on everything should be keel hauled.

Some guys run hi-test gas because that is what is available near them that does not have ethanol in it.

It is my understanding that high test is beneficial when you run high compression. Today's motors generally do not need it.

Ethanol fuel is fine if you use it up & don't let it sit in the fuel system. If it sits in an older fuel system with older formula rubber parts, then the rubber degrades quickly. If it sits in any fuel system that is exposed to moist air, then the moisture will bind with the ethanol over time & form a goop that causes trouble.