2007 H38 Pins in blocks permanent or press-out?

[flightlead404]

I'm replacing all the running rigging on my H38.

I have several of these blocks (one for boom vang pictured). The new lines have eyes spliced in. I assumed (perhaps stupidly) that these pins simply pressed out so I could replace the line. Now I'm not so sure. How do I get this pin out to replace this line?

 

[sail sfbay]

Yep.....time to replace the vang control line. The fiddle block looks like they need a special key to screw out the pin. might check with block manufacturer if the PO did not leave you one. Could replace fiddle block with one that has a clevis pin and ring ding like I have on my Hunter 46.

 

[Richard19068]

Could replace fiddle block with one that has a clevis pin and ring ding like I have on my Hunter 46.

Or, worst case, drill out the old pin and replace with new clevis pin and ring ding.

Could those pins be a "permanent" part of the block and the old lines have been spliced directly to them?

 

[flightlead404]

Or, worst case, drill out the old pin and replace with new clevis pin and ring ding.

Could those pins be a "permanent" part of the block and the old lines have been spliced directly to them?

I bloody hope not! That's gonna be a few hundred more $ but worse, likely a week delay again

tbh those "pins" (is the correct term "bail"?) look like the olde schoole brake lining rivets or the rivets used today on light aircraft brake linings, ie the one end looks like it is a "factory" head and the other like it is a "shop head".

The eye looks awfully tight to have been spliced around the pin. I tried gently to drive it out using a small socket as a backer and a small drift. It didn't budge.

Drilling out might be an option assuming I can find a suitable pin. That's my next step I think.

 

[flightlead404]

Yep.....time to replace the vang control line.

Yes, time to replace ALL lines. I'm replacing every piece of running rigging and some of the blocks etc as well. If the jib halyard is in good shape I may re-purpose for a spinnaker halyard (that being the only option this boat didn't have) I saw when I viewed the boat prior to purchase that the lines were pretty bad, and it was called out on the survey. Thought they were good enough to go for a day sail or two while I was waiting for them to be made up. I was wrong. Right outside the Ft. Pierce inlet main furling line jammed, then parted. Had to rush to get the main down and under control. Also found the two turning blocks at the mast step were fractured. Idk exactly how, maybe were cracked and missed on survey. It was real sporty for a few minutes.

 

[sail sfbay]

Good plan to replace all the running rigging to mitigate the risk of any further line failures. Besides they will feel more comfortable and look great!!

 

[Terry Cox]

If it were my boat, I would contact the block maker and ask whether and how to remove the pin. Most that I've worked with have been very helpful when it comes to issues such as yours.

 

[flightlead404]

If it were my boat, I would contact the block maker and ask whether and how to remove the pin. Most that I've worked with have been very helpful when it comes to issues such as yours.

Not sure who the block maker is. Its a Selden Rod Kicker, but IDK on the blocks. I don't think they're Selden although I could be wrong.

There's what looks like a stylized "R" on them. Ronstan maybe?

 

[flightlead404]

To close this out, the quickest and easiest route was to purchase a Harken 60 mm Aluminum Element Block (6261) from West Marine locally. $65 out the door and done in 40 minutes including round trip time to the store. Now on to the final challenge, the main halyard which is giving me fits, new thread for that.

 

[jssailem]

Yes, the "R" Does look like an old Ronstan. There were Lewmar/Ronstan block combinations used.
Here is a link and image.
LEWMAR/RONSTAN MAIN SHEET, VANG 31 PULLEY BLOCK/TACKLE With30' NEW LINE

 

[justsomeguy]

(is the correct term "bail"?)

Becket, I believe.

 

[flightlead404]

To close it out fully, I also realized that somewhere along the way the vang block system had been installed upside down. That is, the becket block should have been at the bottom end by the mast and the fiddle block at the top (boom) end. The way it was I didn't like the way the force pulled vertically down on the block closest to the mast.

So, back to WM to get a bow shackle for the block to install everything the right way around.

Oh well, I'm getting my vocabulary down at least