Syoun10,
I have a 2004 H33 and also have to replace the waste hose. Could you provide an update on how you proceeded to remove and replace the old hose ?
Thanks
Marc
2004 H33 Help w/Sanitation Hose
- Thread starter sea_casper
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Syoun10,
I have a 2004 H33 and also have to replace the waste hose. Could you provide an update on how you proceeded to remove and replace the old hose ?
Thanks
Marc
replace sewer pipe in 2006 H33
Yes, I have just finished this and took a few photos so I could document for sea_casper.
Firstly I have to say that, going off sea_casper's description, his boat (a H33 2004) may be plumbed a little differently from mine (a H33 2006). If you look at Photo 1, you can see that for my boat, Hunter laid the waste line to run THROUGH the storage compartment under the starboard side of the rear berth. I understand that the 2004 plumbing follows the route A - B - C - D - E - F i.e. inside those fiberglass channels. Assuming that's the case, I'll just describe what I did, and comment on how I would address the more complex plumbing route at the end of this post.
Photo 3 shows the pipe going from the under-berth area to the holding tank compartment i.e. A to B. I was able to get my hand through the front opening in the fiberglass enough to cut a cable tie that was securing it. However the pipe still didn't want to move so I convinced myself there were more holding ties inside the channel, out of reach.
Back to Photo 1, the pipe goes from point F under the stbd. cloths cabinet to the head. Photo 2 shows a down view of the cavity under the forward part of this cabinet. I was able to put my hand in through the "black hole" and find and cut another tie. However the pipe still didn't want to move here either so again I convinced myself there were more holding ties under the cupboard, out of reach.
However, the long run of accessible pipe within the under-berth storage compartment gave me confidence that I could cut the pipe in the middle of that area, and treat the two problems separately. When I did that a bit of jiggling of the rear section of the pipe loosened it, showing me that there were no further ties. The forward under-cloths cupboard section still wouldn't budge. I cut a hole in the wood floor under the cloths cupboard to be able to reach further aft but found no ties. I then cut a round hole in the fiberglass near point F in photo 1, but still found no tie. Getting desperate now, I removed the toilet (for greater access) and worked out a way to connect a winch to force that section of pipe out through the toilet, snapping any ties in the way. But I decided to try one more thing. On a section of that pipe still in the under-berth area, I drilled a hole right through and put in a long screwdriver at right angles to the pipe length. Using this to twist the pipe it eventually broke free from whatever was jamming it, and from then on that section of the pipe was also loose.
So then I "sewed" the end of the old pile protruding into the head to the new pipe with wire, (see Photo 4) and used the old pipe to pull the new pipe through from the toilet room into the under-berth area. I used KY Jelly to lubricate both pipes. (Photo 5 - this worked well - don't know what it's intended use is, but it surely can't be made just for boat plumbing or it'd be sold at West Marine instead of the pharmacy!) Then I cut the wire and disposed of the forward section of the old pipe. I sewed the new pipe to the rear section of old pipe and (with more KY Jelly) pulled them both aft until the new pipe was completely in place.
If I have to do it again, I wouldn't cut under the cloths cupboard, or the fiberglass, but I would remove the head, toilet door, and aft stateroom door for ease of access. I used Trident 102 sanitation line and had no problem with bending radius (even though it is not very flexible).
Based on my experience, if I had to replumb a boat where the pipe went through the fiberglass channels (A - B - C - D - E - F in photo 1) like I'm assuming in sea_casper's 2004 H33, I would cut holes in the fiberglass at points C and D as needed to get the old pipe out, then put the new pipe in the route it is in my 2006.
So, good luck! It didn't end up being as bad as I thought it would be!
Yes, I have just finished this and took a few photos so I could document for sea_casper.
Firstly I have to say that, going off sea_casper's description, his boat (a H33 2004) may be plumbed a little differently from mine (a H33 2006). If you look at Photo 1, you can see that for my boat, Hunter laid the waste line to run THROUGH the storage compartment under the starboard side of the rear berth. I understand that the 2004 plumbing follows the route A - B - C - D - E - F i.e. inside those fiberglass channels. Assuming that's the case, I'll just describe what I did, and comment on how I would address the more complex plumbing route at the end of this post.
Photo 3 shows the pipe going from the under-berth area to the holding tank compartment i.e. A to B. I was able to get my hand through the front opening in the fiberglass enough to cut a cable tie that was securing it. However the pipe still didn't want to move so I convinced myself there were more holding ties inside the channel, out of reach.
Back to Photo 1, the pipe goes from point F under the stbd. cloths cabinet to the head. Photo 2 shows a down view of the cavity under the forward part of this cabinet. I was able to put my hand in through the "black hole" and find and cut another tie. However the pipe still didn't want to move here either so again I convinced myself there were more holding ties under the cupboard, out of reach.
However, the long run of accessible pipe within the under-berth storage compartment gave me confidence that I could cut the pipe in the middle of that area, and treat the two problems separately. When I did that a bit of jiggling of the rear section of the pipe loosened it, showing me that there were no further ties. The forward under-cloths cupboard section still wouldn't budge. I cut a hole in the wood floor under the cloths cupboard to be able to reach further aft but found no ties. I then cut a round hole in the fiberglass near point F in photo 1, but still found no tie. Getting desperate now, I removed the toilet (for greater access) and worked out a way to connect a winch to force that section of pipe out through the toilet, snapping any ties in the way. But I decided to try one more thing. On a section of that pipe still in the under-berth area, I drilled a hole right through and put in a long screwdriver at right angles to the pipe length. Using this to twist the pipe it eventually broke free from whatever was jamming it, and from then on that section of the pipe was also loose.
So then I "sewed" the end of the old pile protruding into the head to the new pipe with wire, (see Photo 4) and used the old pipe to pull the new pipe through from the toilet room into the under-berth area. I used KY Jelly to lubricate both pipes. (Photo 5 - this worked well - don't know what it's intended use is, but it surely can't be made just for boat plumbing or it'd be sold at West Marine instead of the pharmacy!) Then I cut the wire and disposed of the forward section of the old pipe. I sewed the new pipe to the rear section of old pipe and (with more KY Jelly) pulled them both aft until the new pipe was completely in place.
If I have to do it again, I wouldn't cut under the cloths cupboard, or the fiberglass, but I would remove the head, toilet door, and aft stateroom door for ease of access. I used Trident 102 sanitation line and had no problem with bending radius (even though it is not very flexible).
Based on my experience, if I had to replumb a boat where the pipe went through the fiberglass channels (A - B - C - D - E - F in photo 1) like I'm assuming in sea_casper's 2004 H33, I would cut holes in the fiberglass at points C and D as needed to get the old pipe out, then put the new pipe in the route it is in my 2006.
So, good luck! It didn't end up being as bad as I thought it would be!
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Re: replace sewer pipe in 2006 H33
Cyoun10, thanks for the very detailed reply. This will help me greatly when i tackle this project in the next few months. You are correct that running the pipe in a straight line in the open compartment under the berth, as the 2006 model has done, is way more practical then having two 90 degree turns in a narrow channel. Even the diagram in the manual has the pipe running that way and not with two 90 degree turns.
Another part of this project involves attaching the pipe to the waste tank. The connection is located at the rear of the tank. I'm curious to know how you managed to get access to be able to reach that section of the tank. Did you remove the propane tank storage container in the starboard locker or use another method?
Marc
Cyoun10, thanks for the very detailed reply. This will help me greatly when i tackle this project in the next few months. You are correct that running the pipe in a straight line in the open compartment under the berth, as the 2006 model has done, is way more practical then having two 90 degree turns in a narrow channel. Even the diagram in the manual has the pipe running that way and not with two 90 degree turns.
Another part of this project involves attaching the pipe to the waste tank. The connection is located at the rear of the tank. I'm curious to know how you managed to get access to be able to reach that section of the tank. Did you remove the propane tank storage container in the starboard locker or use another method?
Marc
No, I partially crawled into that area through the access hole that the boat has. I had to heat the old pipe to get it off, but the new pipe went on easily with the help of my old friend KY (the marinized version of course!) Although this wasn't comfortable it was by far not the worst part of the job, and certainly not the most difficult.
The only pipe I haven't changed now is the vent hose pipe. I don't know how difficult access will be for that. Does the propane tank container come out? Anybody done that?
Great job! The pictures tell the tale, using a water soluble grease was genius.
On my 2004 boat I am hoping the pipe takes a shortcut under the well, perhaps B to E.
I will first cut out a hole approximating the one you have at F, and go from there, I had planned on cutting access at E next.
As far as why some hoses turn smelly quicker, it may be in technique.
I decided to use only fresh water for flush, and at the end of the day or cruise, it is important to fresh water flush enough to clear the whole hose.
Removing the mascerator hose of course is the best thing you can do, because there is no legal way to flush it at the dock.
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