2001 Hunter 410 Freshwater Leak
- Thread starter rdarst
- Start date
If you are sure it is a leak, take a dry-erase marker and mark each area around each fitting to determine the culprit (assuming you can't just find an obvious puddle). However, it could be the pump pressure switch itself failing. Another issue could be the water heater where the heat exchanger enters the tank. It will sometimes leak into the insulation before manifesting itself as a puddle. Good luck! (Sounds to me like the pressure switch, but I have been wrong oh so many times...)
If it is leaking regardless of which tank is being drawn from, I would think you start at the manifold (where you select the tank) and work towards the faucets. All fittings and other equipment (water pump, filters, strainers, accumulator) should be inspected too. Don’t forget connections to the water heater and the WH tank itself (look for rust and moisture). Probably helps to have the pump on and pressure in the system to force the leak.
Happy hunting.
Greg
Happy hunting.
Greg
Our Flojet water pump was cycling, too. First from a slow fitting drip, which I fixed. Cycling continued albeit less frequent. Contacted the maker and diagnosed it to a bad pump check valve. Purchased a new valve and a new pump. Repaired the old pump and now have it as a spare. No more pump cycling.
Do you you have water leaking anywhere? If not it is the pump pressure switch as mentioned above.
FYI I changed out my pump to Aqua King II Supreme 5.0 Pump and love the increased pressure.
FYI I changed out my pump to Aqua King II Supreme 5.0 Pump and love the increased pressure.
I'm putting my money on @Terry Cox with the leaking pump check valve .................. unless you have a pressurized fitting pi$$ing all over the floor.
You can test for a leaking pump check valve if you have an isolation valve before the pump as shown:
with credit given to @Tally Ho's fine drawing.
Once the pump is up to pressure and shuts off, close the inlet valve (shown in red). The pressure is now contained within the system and the pump should not come on again. If it does, Mr. Cox has just cost me a bucket full of money. Run the test for a little longer than the cycle you've been seeing, to prove the point.
The test requires that you stay by the pump so that if it does come on again under test, you can quickly either :
a) quickly shut down the pump or
b) quickly open the inlet valve.
Running the pump with the inlet valve closed for an extended period of time is not recommended.
You can test for a leaking pump check valve if you have an isolation valve before the pump as shown:
with credit given to @Tally Ho's fine drawing.
Once the pump is up to pressure and shuts off, close the inlet valve (shown in red). The pressure is now contained within the system and the pump should not come on again. If it does, Mr. Cox has just cost me a bucket full of money. Run the test for a little longer than the cycle you've been seeing, to prove the point.
The test requires that you stay by the pump so that if it does come on again under test, you can quickly either :
a) quickly shut down the pump or
b) quickly open the inlet valve.
Running the pump with the inlet valve closed for an extended period of time is not recommended.
Exactly this. If there's water leaking/dripping/spraying... follow it to its source. If you can't find water coming out of the system anywhere... replace the pump... I find the "automatic pressure sensing" part of the pumps generally are poor quality, and sometimes just lose their minds and cycle the pump motor even when the system is fully pressurized.