For a 1987 Ericson 34. First problem is battery charging. 45 minutes of running the engine at 1400 rpm is insufficient to recharge the batteries. Voltmeter at alternator reads 14v, but voltmeter on control panel reads only 13v. To charge the batteries does the circuit go through the panel? and if so would 13 be accurate indication of power to the batteries? Owners Manuals states 13v is a slow charge (such as for an automobile or power boat) and 13.5 to 14.5v is necessary for a sailboat. Local mechanic argues 13 is sufficient. Comments? Second Problem: Twice we have failed to turn the power switch to OFF before leaving the boat. Each time after 48 hours the batteries are near dead, although all circuits had been turned off at the control panel. Is the solution to test each circuit at control panel with a voltmeter to find out where the power leakage is? Any other locations that could be causing leakage? We have taken the panel down to inspect the rear. Very clean but there is some new wiring (new speed indicator installed 06 and GPS/monitor in 05). P.S. The batteries were new July 2005 and when fully charged register strong readings.
2 Electrical Problems
- Thread starter Arthur Stock
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Electrical
First problem is battery charging. 45 minutes of running the engine at 1400 rpm is insufficient to recharge the batteries. What kind of alternator and regulator do you have? If it's an OEM,a standard 55 amp internally regulated, you won't get much out of it. Voltmeter at alternator reads 14v, but voltmeter on control panel reads only 13v. The difference is in the voltage drop in the wiring AND IN THE CONNECTIONS. You should also measure the voltage at the batteries. To charge the batteries does the circuit go through the panel? and if so would 13 be accurate indication of power to the batteries? At the risk of being "picky," how the heck could we know how your boat is wired. Sure, they all come a "usual" way from the factory and most are wired with the alternator output to the switch, but a PO could have changed that. YOU need to trace the wires and find out yourself. Owners Manuals states 13v is a slow charge (such as for an automobile or power boat) and 13.5 to 14.5v is necessary for a sailboat. Local mechanic argues 13 is sufficient. Comments? Yes, see above, plus read the Ample Power Primer at www.amplepower.com or any other good reference on sailboat charging systems with new higher output alternators and smart three stage regulators, too long to write all of what the books have done here. Your local mechanic is wrong. Second Problem: Twice we have failed to turn the power switch to OFF before leaving the boat. Each time after 48 hours the batteries are near dead, although all circuits had been turned off at the control panel. Is the solution to test each circuit at control panel with a voltmeter to find out where the power leakage is? Yes. What makes you think the batteries are dead? Is your bilge pump stick on? Could be lots of things. Arthur, you have a really nice boat. I recommend that you do a lot of research on your own and consider buying Calder's Boatowner's Manual for Mech and Elec systems, the best $50 you can spend on your boat. Based on your questions, it appears that you need to learn a lot more about boat electrical systems. Nothing negative here, we've all been there, and have done that "homework." The questions you raise go to the basics of battery chemistry, charging and system maintenance, which is why people have written whole books about it, and too long to answer completely here. All I can suggest are some of the sources that have worked for me in the past. Calder's, Don Casey, lotsa stuff on the web, West Marine Advisors (online and in their catalogs), Ample Power, and any alternator regulator company like Balmar, Xantrex, etc. websites. The concepts aren't too difficult, but the specificity to YOUR particular boat is only something you can know. All the best, Stu
First problem is battery charging. 45 minutes of running the engine at 1400 rpm is insufficient to recharge the batteries. What kind of alternator and regulator do you have? If it's an OEM,a standard 55 amp internally regulated, you won't get much out of it. Voltmeter at alternator reads 14v, but voltmeter on control panel reads only 13v. The difference is in the voltage drop in the wiring AND IN THE CONNECTIONS. You should also measure the voltage at the batteries. To charge the batteries does the circuit go through the panel? and if so would 13 be accurate indication of power to the batteries? At the risk of being "picky," how the heck could we know how your boat is wired. Sure, they all come a "usual" way from the factory and most are wired with the alternator output to the switch, but a PO could have changed that. YOU need to trace the wires and find out yourself. Owners Manuals states 13v is a slow charge (such as for an automobile or power boat) and 13.5 to 14.5v is necessary for a sailboat. Local mechanic argues 13 is sufficient. Comments? Yes, see above, plus read the Ample Power Primer at www.amplepower.com or any other good reference on sailboat charging systems with new higher output alternators and smart three stage regulators, too long to write all of what the books have done here. Your local mechanic is wrong. Second Problem: Twice we have failed to turn the power switch to OFF before leaving the boat. Each time after 48 hours the batteries are near dead, although all circuits had been turned off at the control panel. Is the solution to test each circuit at control panel with a voltmeter to find out where the power leakage is? Yes. What makes you think the batteries are dead? Is your bilge pump stick on? Could be lots of things. Arthur, you have a really nice boat. I recommend that you do a lot of research on your own and consider buying Calder's Boatowner's Manual for Mech and Elec systems, the best $50 you can spend on your boat. Based on your questions, it appears that you need to learn a lot more about boat electrical systems. Nothing negative here, we've all been there, and have done that "homework." The questions you raise go to the basics of battery chemistry, charging and system maintenance, which is why people have written whole books about it, and too long to answer completely here. All I can suggest are some of the sources that have worked for me in the past. Calder's, Don Casey, lotsa stuff on the web, West Marine Advisors (online and in their catalogs), Ample Power, and any alternator regulator company like Balmar, Xantrex, etc. websites. The concepts aren't too difficult, but the specificity to YOUR particular boat is only something you can know. All the best, Stu
Not a problem, it is normal.
The battery's ability to accept charge (acceptance rate) reduces as the battery's charge level comes up. At 75% charge the voltage regulator will start substantially cutting back on power delivered to the batteries to match the declining acceptance rate and once 90% charge is attained it may take hours to reach the 100% level. A 14V output at the alternator is very adequate. The voltmeter on the control panel usually is connected to read battery output. A fully charged battery at rest should read 12.75V. Battery output of a battery not at rest and in the process of being charged will provide temporary higher readings. Shorepower, wind or solar generators are the usual ways of keeping a sailboat's batteries at full charge. Use of the alternator is just supplemental and not efficient due mainly to low output and short running times. Second situation, first of all review your procedures; do you turn off all the breaker switches or do you leave them on? There are some items that could be hardwired to these switches like a water pump, a refrigerator, a bilge pump etc. By leaving the breakers on you may actually leaving these items on. If you shut off all the breakers and the batteries continue to discharge from just leaving the Batt switch on its time to troubleshoot. Take a test lamp and disconnect the battery cables from the positive (+) post of the batteries. with the switch on "ALL" and all 12V breaker switches on connect the test lamp in between one of the cables and a battery (+) terminal post; if the light goes on you have a draw on your electrical system. Start by turning breakers off one by one. If the test lamp goes off after turning one breaker you have identified a circuit with a power draw. Check for items that could be on when they should be off like lights, a refrigerator, water pump, radio etc. If everything is off then you have to trace a short in that particular circuit. Some items you may purposely want on like the bilge pump but it only should present a draw when cycling. A constantly cycling bilge pump could be a problem. If fully charged batteries die in 48 hours your draw is rather large. If you have tripped all 12V breakers and the light is still on the starter, alternator circuits would be suspect. Modified wiring circuits could be a pain to trouble shoot. Good luck.
The battery's ability to accept charge (acceptance rate) reduces as the battery's charge level comes up. At 75% charge the voltage regulator will start substantially cutting back on power delivered to the batteries to match the declining acceptance rate and once 90% charge is attained it may take hours to reach the 100% level. A 14V output at the alternator is very adequate. The voltmeter on the control panel usually is connected to read battery output. A fully charged battery at rest should read 12.75V. Battery output of a battery not at rest and in the process of being charged will provide temporary higher readings. Shorepower, wind or solar generators are the usual ways of keeping a sailboat's batteries at full charge. Use of the alternator is just supplemental and not efficient due mainly to low output and short running times. Second situation, first of all review your procedures; do you turn off all the breaker switches or do you leave them on? There are some items that could be hardwired to these switches like a water pump, a refrigerator, a bilge pump etc. By leaving the breakers on you may actually leaving these items on. If you shut off all the breakers and the batteries continue to discharge from just leaving the Batt switch on its time to troubleshoot. Take a test lamp and disconnect the battery cables from the positive (+) post of the batteries. with the switch on "ALL" and all 12V breaker switches on connect the test lamp in between one of the cables and a battery (+) terminal post; if the light goes on you have a draw on your electrical system. Start by turning breakers off one by one. If the test lamp goes off after turning one breaker you have identified a circuit with a power draw. Check for items that could be on when they should be off like lights, a refrigerator, water pump, radio etc. If everything is off then you have to trace a short in that particular circuit. Some items you may purposely want on like the bilge pump but it only should present a draw when cycling. A constantly cycling bilge pump could be a problem. If fully charged batteries die in 48 hours your draw is rather large. If you have tripped all 12V breakers and the light is still on the starter, alternator circuits would be suspect. Modified wiring circuits could be a pain to trouble shoot. Good luck.
Good Suggestions
I want to thank each one of you for your observations and suggestions. The drainage problem occurs when I forget to turn the main switch to off, which I did 3 times this summer. Batteries won't turn the engine after 48 hours. I'll try the procedures suggested and report back. I'll either buy Calders book now or ask Santa Claus for one (my family is always looking for presents to get for me and I am tired of golf shirts). I'll keep you posed. And thanks again.
I want to thank each one of you for your observations and suggestions. The drainage problem occurs when I forget to turn the main switch to off, which I did 3 times this summer. Batteries won't turn the engine after 48 hours. I'll try the procedures suggested and report back. I'll either buy Calders book now or ask Santa Claus for one (my family is always looking for presents to get for me and I am tired of golf shirts). I'll keep you posed. And thanks again.
Glad to be of help
Arthur, all the best, report back if you feel necessary, but sure nice of you to say what you did. Fair winds, Stu
Arthur, all the best, report back if you feel necessary, but sure nice of you to say what you did. Fair winds, Stu
Batteries
Reccomend Don Casey's latest, A complete guide to Sailboat Maintenance. Can get thru west marine, but found cheaper on line. Previous advise excellent. Also, how good are your batteries? Remove, charge fully, check specific gravity of each cell and do a load test on them. Your auto mechanic or auto parts store will have a load tester and do it for you. An old, or worn out battery may take a "surface" charge but it won't have any depth. As previosly mentioned, if you don't have a test light get one. Indispensible for finding voltage gremlins. You'll find the problem but you may see more of the inside of your boat than you really wanted! Good luck.
Reccomend Don Casey's latest, A complete guide to Sailboat Maintenance. Can get thru west marine, but found cheaper on line. Previous advise excellent. Also, how good are your batteries? Remove, charge fully, check specific gravity of each cell and do a load test on them. Your auto mechanic or auto parts store will have a load tester and do it for you. An old, or worn out battery may take a "surface" charge but it won't have any depth. As previosly mentioned, if you don't have a test light get one. Indispensible for finding voltage gremlins. You'll find the problem but you may see more of the inside of your boat than you really wanted! Good luck.
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