2 Electrical Problems

[Arthur Stock]

For a 1987 Ericson 34. First problem is battery charging. 45 minutes of running the engine at 1400 rpm is insufficient to recharge the batteries. Voltmeter at alternator reads 14v, but voltmeter on control panel reads only 13v. To charge the batteries does the circuit go through the panel? and if so would 13 be accurate indication of power to the batteries? Owners Manuals states 13v is a slow charge (such as for an automobile or power boat) and 13.5 to 14.5v is necessary for a sailboat. Local mechanic argues 13 is sufficient. Comments?Second Problem: Twice we have failed to turn the power switch to OFF before leaving the boat. Each time after 48 hours the batteries are near dead, although all circuits had been turned off at the control panel. Is the solution to test each circuit at control panel with a voltmeter to find out where the power leakage is? Any other locations that could be causing leakage? We have taken the panel down to inspect the rear. Very clean but there is some new wiring (new speed indicator installed 06 and GPS/monitor in 05).P.S. The batteries were new July 2005 and when fully charged register strong readi

 

[Eric 14700]

Elec Problems

Sounds like an 'electrical' leak in the system. The batteries going dead rapidly might be related to the reduced charge voltage at the panel. Needs a system shakedown; check connections, continuity and condition of wires. Good luck.

 

[Doug Harmon]

Demon battery drain

Hey Arthur,I thought an observation from a fellow Ericson owner might give you a starting point to a number of questions you are having. sorry for being long winded.I own an 1978 E27 w/ a 8 bhpYanmar. I modified the boat to use 2 group 27 deep cycle batteries & 1 group 24 deep cycle/starting battery.I keep the boat on a mooring so I need to be able to provide power for all ship board electrical needs for 5+ months while the boat is in the water.twice to three weekly engine run time of 45 minutes keeps all three batteries charged. This is starting the season with fresh batteries that have been maintained over the winter.(ie kepted above freezing & charged monthly)The circuits that I have that do not run through the main battery switch are;1) 20 amp fused brown line for bilge opperation and high water indication.2) 15 amp fused purple wire for stereo memory, cig lighter by hatch for future solar pannel to charge batteries if needed,so far not needed.Note: the alt has 3 diodes that can drain the battery & reduce charging if bad. Check first. Best advise check with local auto part stores and have output / diodes checked if not find local rotating electricial rebuilder and have tested. The normal voltage on the main house batteries is 12.64v, the starting/DC is normally 12.52v mid season.On heavy electrical draw weeks the alt belt will get hot driving the load and this is with just a 25amp output. Output voltage when light prior use is 14.46v at the alt terminal & 14.39v at both house & starting batteries pos terminal. Heavy use readings 13.98v house & 14.1 S/D. The power from the alt does not go through the electrical pannel on it's way to the batteries, it's direct fused run, to main battery switch. Last thought, do the new electronics come on with main swiches or do they have any need for memory like the stereo? check owners manual?Cheers Doug

 

[Arthur Stock]

Thanks for the RTips

Thanks Eric and Doug for the tips. Good to hear from a Lake Geneva sailor. I used to race scows on Lake Minnetonka. Eric, this boat spent its first 17 years at Solomons, MD. Not that far.I hadn't thought of a line to the bilge that bypasses the main battery switch. 45 minutes of engine recharging is about 10-15 minutes longer than we have been charging. The alternator belt was tightened twice this summer. I think it should be put on my "check me first" list. The boat was pulled today. Had only 3 months of enjoyment this year because of a very late spring and last minute mechanical issues. Now we are down to just these two.