We've owned a Hunter 285 (1987) for two years now (also our first boat) and last year I had the yard winterize for us. But to save some $$$ and to do what seems like a fairly straight forward operation, we're going to winterize ourselves. I've gathered a fair amount of information about it, from this site and a few marine stores, but I still have a few questions. 1. As far as winterizing the raw water side of the engine I know that I need to use the "blue stuff" and get it into the engine by disconnecting the hose after the filter and ball valve, adding a 2 or 3 foot peice of extra hose to it, pouring about three gallons of the blue stuff into a five gallon bucket, start the engine with the hose in the bucket and almost drain it. Most of the boat owners who have written about this seem to do it AFTER the baot is hauled because they talk about waiting for the blue stuff to come drain out of the through hull fitting. Can't this also be done while in the water? After almost three gallons get pumped in I'm sure I'd be covered. I realize that I couldn't start the engine again (till the boat is launched again in the spring) becasue that would wash out all of the blue stuff. Is it OK to just leave the baot sit in the slip till it's halued out. I know that yard tows it to the lift and dosen't start the engine. 2. Seems like the most common way of winterizing the fresh water system has been to drain the hot and cold water from the sinks till the water just spirts. Then disconnect the in and out hoses to the hot water heater and connect them together. Drain the remaining water from the hot water tank. Pour about three gallons of the pink stuff into the fresh water tank and then turn on each hot and cold water faucet (in the head and galley) till pink stuff runs out. Then put another gallon or so into the freash water tank. 3. For the most part it seems like a lot of boat owners just let the water in the heat exchanger alone. That is not drain it but check the level and top off with the blue stuff if low. 4. As for the head and holding tank, pump out the tank, fill the head bowl up twice and pump it out (into the tank) and then fill the bowl up with a little more pink stuff. 5. Pump out the bilge and then add some bule stuff to it and pump a bit through to protect the pump and line to the through hull fitting. ************************************************************ So, does that all sound about right? Bob
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First snow in Minnesota today
Everything you said sounds like how we do it in frigid Minnesota with it's 2 month sailing season. Had our first snow in the state today... I think the mistake that could be made in our climate is not getting everything completely drained and then adding the RV style antifreeze that would then be diluted so it would freeze and crack the hell outa something when we hit 30 below zero in a month or so.
Everything you said sounds like how we do it in frigid Minnesota with it's 2 month sailing season. Had our first snow in the state today... I think the mistake that could be made in our climate is not getting everything completely drained and then adding the RV style antifreeze that would then be diluted so it would freeze and crack the hell outa something when we hit 30 below zero in a month or so.
Blue Stuff??? Mine is Pink
Bob: The only antifreeze I use in winterizing is the so-called "pink stuff", the non-toxic type of antifreeze. The 1987 H285 has a Yanmar 2GM20F diesel, which is considered a "fresh water" cooled engine. To me this term has always been confusing, because it's really a "glycol-based coolant" cooled engine, with a heat exchanger that passes sea water. The glycol coolant doesn't need to be touched for winterizing, unless it's low or needs to be replaced (can use a standard automotive type tester to check it's freeze protection). You were correct in describing the procedure to displace the sea water with "pink stuff" antifreeze, and you are correct that you can do it in the water. I don't bother decanting the pink stuff, nor attaching a different hose. I just remove the hose from sea-strainer outflow side and slide inside the gallon jug of pink stuff. Engine will suck almost all of it out, then remove and slide hose into next gallon jug. You should also remove the hose from between the through-hull and the sea strainer, and empty the sea strainer of water (I use a turkey baster). You are also correct about draining and charging the fresh water system. The hot water heater can be tricky, as mine never seems to drain vigorously. I try to pour some pink stuff into the hot water heater after draining it, on the off chance there is still water inside. Your comment about the heat exchanger causes concern. If by "blue stuff" you mean the toxic glycol-based antifreeze, you better go back and re-read all the advice you've considered so far. You SHOULD NOT be using "blue stuff" in any of your winterization procedures, except for possibly adding a small amount to the engine's coolant expansion tank. NEVER USE "BLUE STUFF" for the sea-water cooling system, as it will eventually go overboard and kill a lot of fish. NEVER USE "BLUE STUFF" for fresh water tanks, etc., for same reason + this time you may be killing people who drink from your faucets. NEVER USE "BLUE STUFF" for the bilge. BLUE STUFF IS TOXIC. My bilge discharge hose won't "hold" any water, as anything not pumped overboard during bilge pump operation just comes right back down the hose and back into the bilge. Get the bilge as dry as you can and then add some PINK stuff. Top off your diesel tank to avoid condensation. Once the boat is hauled, open all through-hulls to allow captured water to drain. Pull the batteries out and keep them charged over the winter. If you want to keep them on the boat, find some way to keep them charged. Remove all sails & canvas (dodger, bimini). You might want to consider building a crutch to secure the boom, or use a separate line tied to toe rail on both sides rather than keeping it secured with main sheet cleated tight. Check your boat periodically over the winter. Watch for the cockpit scuppers getting clogged. Hope you came through the hurricane in good shape. Eric
Bob: The only antifreeze I use in winterizing is the so-called "pink stuff", the non-toxic type of antifreeze. The 1987 H285 has a Yanmar 2GM20F diesel, which is considered a "fresh water" cooled engine. To me this term has always been confusing, because it's really a "glycol-based coolant" cooled engine, with a heat exchanger that passes sea water. The glycol coolant doesn't need to be touched for winterizing, unless it's low or needs to be replaced (can use a standard automotive type tester to check it's freeze protection). You were correct in describing the procedure to displace the sea water with "pink stuff" antifreeze, and you are correct that you can do it in the water. I don't bother decanting the pink stuff, nor attaching a different hose. I just remove the hose from sea-strainer outflow side and slide inside the gallon jug of pink stuff. Engine will suck almost all of it out, then remove and slide hose into next gallon jug. You should also remove the hose from between the through-hull and the sea strainer, and empty the sea strainer of water (I use a turkey baster). You are also correct about draining and charging the fresh water system. The hot water heater can be tricky, as mine never seems to drain vigorously. I try to pour some pink stuff into the hot water heater after draining it, on the off chance there is still water inside. Your comment about the heat exchanger causes concern. If by "blue stuff" you mean the toxic glycol-based antifreeze, you better go back and re-read all the advice you've considered so far. You SHOULD NOT be using "blue stuff" in any of your winterization procedures, except for possibly adding a small amount to the engine's coolant expansion tank. NEVER USE "BLUE STUFF" for the sea-water cooling system, as it will eventually go overboard and kill a lot of fish. NEVER USE "BLUE STUFF" for fresh water tanks, etc., for same reason + this time you may be killing people who drink from your faucets. NEVER USE "BLUE STUFF" for the bilge. BLUE STUFF IS TOXIC. My bilge discharge hose won't "hold" any water, as anything not pumped overboard during bilge pump operation just comes right back down the hose and back into the bilge. Get the bilge as dry as you can and then add some PINK stuff. Top off your diesel tank to avoid condensation. Once the boat is hauled, open all through-hulls to allow captured water to drain. Pull the batteries out and keep them charged over the winter. If you want to keep them on the boat, find some way to keep them charged. Remove all sails & canvas (dodger, bimini). You might want to consider building a crutch to secure the boom, or use a separate line tied to toe rail on both sides rather than keeping it secured with main sheet cleated tight. Check your boat periodically over the winter. Watch for the cockpit scuppers getting clogged. Hope you came through the hurricane in good shape. Eric
PINK STUFF!! (But don't need that much)
Absolutely right on pink vs. blue. Always go with the pink!!! Also, you don't need to use that much in the fresh water system. All you need to do is make sure there's enough to make it from the tank to the faucets, with just a little bit left in the tank. Think ahead to Spring when you have to flush it all out of there! I once spent the better part of an entire day flushing only one gallon of anti-freeze from my water tank. If the tank is "empty" to begin with there's no reason to put in more than you need. Here's to a short Winter!!!!
Absolutely right on pink vs. blue. Always go with the pink!!! Also, you don't need to use that much in the fresh water system. All you need to do is make sure there's enough to make it from the tank to the faucets, with just a little bit left in the tank. Think ahead to Spring when you have to flush it all out of there! I once spent the better part of an entire day flushing only one gallon of anti-freeze from my water tank. If the tank is "empty" to begin with there's no reason to put in more than you need. Here's to a short Winter!!!!
Blue stuff
Thanks for the info guys. It confirms what I've read and heard. As for the "blue stuff" a boat owne/ store clerk at a Boat US store said that he uses the blue stuff to winterize his raw water intake. Never said anything about it harming fish but I will check it out on the bottle. Thanks!
Thanks for the info guys. It confirms what I've read and heard. As for the "blue stuff" a boat owne/ store clerk at a Boat US store said that he uses the blue stuff to winterize his raw water intake. Never said anything about it harming fish but I will check it out on the bottle. Thanks!
You Missed One Item on the 28.5.
Don't forget to run some full strength -50 degree 'Pink' antifreeze down the galley sink with it's thru-hull closed. I'd do the same with the head intake seacock after you've winterized the head as well as using a funnel to add some full strength -50 'Pink' antifreeze into the vacuum break on the 1-1/2" head down to the overboard discharge seacock. Now you have protected the seacocks until the boat is on the 'hard' when you can either open the seacocks or leave in the antifreeze, (some Hunter original equipment gatevalves will hold water in the valve assembly and freeze).
Don't forget to run some full strength -50 degree 'Pink' antifreeze down the galley sink with it's thru-hull closed. I'd do the same with the head intake seacock after you've winterized the head as well as using a funnel to add some full strength -50 'Pink' antifreeze into the vacuum break on the 1-1/2" head down to the overboard discharge seacock. Now you have protected the seacocks until the boat is on the 'hard' when you can either open the seacocks or leave in the antifreeze, (some Hunter original equipment gatevalves will hold water in the valve assembly and freeze).
Thanks!
Thanks for the reminder and I was going to do that to the galley and head sink. Also I'm replacing ALL of the old gate valves with sea cocks this winter. My raw water gate valve beat me to it and frozen closed on me a little while ago. I had the yard haul the boat and put a ball valve in which I think I'll also replace with a "real" seacock. I would have done the work myself but my job got in the way.
Thanks for the reminder and I was going to do that to the galley and head sink. Also I'm replacing ALL of the old gate valves with sea cocks this winter. My raw water gate valve beat me to it and frozen closed on me a little while ago. I had the yard haul the boat and put a ball valve in which I think I'll also replace with a "real" seacock. I would have done the work myself but my job got in the way.
blue stuff
the blue stuff is probably the -60 or -100 RV antifreeze, also safe but more expensive-I hope he's not using the greenish automotive antifreeze, which is toxic and should never be used in a water system other than the recirculating coolant in the freshwater side of your engine
the blue stuff is probably the -60 or -100 RV antifreeze, also safe but more expensive-I hope he's not using the greenish automotive antifreeze, which is toxic and should never be used in a water system other than the recirculating coolant in the freshwater side of your engine
One more suggestion
I put the pink stuff for engine in before the Racor filter by detaching hose and putting a funnel with a long outlet into the hose. Easier to pour into the funnel this way. Joan
I put the pink stuff for engine in before the Racor filter by detaching hose and putting a funnel with a long outlet into the hose. Easier to pour into the funnel this way. Joan
JUST USE NONE TOX
it is a easy and not very time consuming make sure you use R.V none toxic it is usualy red or pink you have to wait till the boat is out of the water and you are not going to use the motor any more simply take off the intake hose from the though hall and put it into the nontox run the engin and switch the contaner untill you see red coming out other side water systeam run the systeam dry put nontox in the water tank run water till you see it coming out the tapes hot water heater drain using the drain bolt and if you have compresore blow it out. leave the tapes open for the winter take the batteris and keep them off the floor in the house make sure they are charhed
it is a easy and not very time consuming make sure you use R.V none toxic it is usualy red or pink you have to wait till the boat is out of the water and you are not going to use the motor any more simply take off the intake hose from the though hall and put it into the nontox run the engin and switch the contaner untill you see red coming out other side water systeam run the systeam dry put nontox in the water tank run water till you see it coming out the tapes hot water heater drain using the drain bolt and if you have compresore blow it out. leave the tapes open for the winter take the batteris and keep them off the floor in the house make sure they are charhed
Non toxic "pink" not recommended for engines
'cuz it doesn't include any rust inhibitors. That doesn't mean you have to use the highly toxic ethylene glycol in engines...use the "low toxic" version of proplylene glycol made for engines. However, ONLY the non-toxic "pink stuff" should be used in the plumbing. To winterize the plumbing: FRESH WATER SYSTEM 1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets). 2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it. 3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores. 4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system. SANITATION SYSTEM 1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. 2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull. 3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. 4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water. Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.
'cuz it doesn't include any rust inhibitors. That doesn't mean you have to use the highly toxic ethylene glycol in engines...use the "low toxic" version of proplylene glycol made for engines. However, ONLY the non-toxic "pink stuff" should be used in the plumbing. To winterize the plumbing: FRESH WATER SYSTEM 1. Drain the water tanks completely (just turn on all the faucets). 2. Drain water heater. Most have a drain petcock; follow manufacturer’s instructions to find it and use it. Remove both the inlet and outlet hoses, and if necessary use a shop vac to be sure of gettting all the water out of it. 3.Connect water heater inlet and outlet hoses together. Bypass kits for this purpose are available from boat stores and RV supply stores. 4. Add non-toxic antifreeze ("the pink stuff") and pump that through the system until all outlets--hot and cold in the galley, head, shower, and any deck wash--run only antifreeze. Leave all the faucets open to make sure there is no pressure in the system. SANITATION SYSTEM 1. Pump holding tank out, then rinse thoroughly by completely filling with fresh water and 1 gallon of white vinegar twice. 2. Close toilet intake through-hull, disconnect inlet hose and stick it in a gallon of non-toxic ("the pink stuff") antifreeze. Pump the whole gallon through the system into the holding tank. Do not reconnect head intake hose to the through-hull. 3. Pump the head 50 times to get as much fluid out of the system as possible. 4. After the boat comes out of the water, open all the sea cocks to drain any trapped water. Do not use antifreeze in a Lectra/San or PuraSan. Follow manufacturers instructions to winterize all Type I and II MSDs.
Yanmar recommends Extended Life Havoline
When changing the anti-freeze in your engine, Yanmar now recommends the Extend Life Havoline (just so happens that it is pink). This stuff is suppose to be good for 5 year vs. 2 for the other brands like Prestone etc.
When changing the anti-freeze in your engine, Yanmar now recommends the Extend Life Havoline (just so happens that it is pink). This stuff is suppose to be good for 5 year vs. 2 for the other brands like Prestone etc.
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