My new (to me) 1995 H26's electrical system: Nissan 8hp electric start with alternator, a combined starting and deep-cycle flooded battery rated at 105 AH, and a Uni-Solar flexible panel with 1.94 max amp rating, without a regulator. Given that the engine has an auxiliary pull-start, and modest electrical use, what reason is there for a second battery? Also, I've read variously that as long as the panel is less than 1.5% (Uni-Solar description in West catalog), 1-2% (West Advisor catalog article), or 0.5% (Calder's book) of the battery's rated AH capacity, no regulator is needed. My system fails Calder and Uni-Solar's tests, and is marginal by West Advisor standards, but the previous owner didn't seem to have any problems. Should I buy a regulator, or a larger capacity battery, or leave well enough alone? Thanks in advance Tom
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Jerry Olivero
A rule is always requires an exception
Which way is the wind blowing today? SSW @ 5-10kts then the answer is to be conservative. Installing a regulator will protect your battery from overcharging and possilbly extend its life. It will also give you the flexibility to charge more than a single battery. The advice you quoted from the various sources is correct as a general rule of thumb and is therefore pretty conservative. It assumes that your solar panel is operating at near maximum efficiency which in the real world is probably only 50% accurate. You are most likey charging the battery with an average current of 500ma. The only thing to watch is battery fluid level which will give you an early warning of overcharging. You could also measure the actual charge current with a meter when the sun is directly overhead to determine just what maximum charge current is and see if regulator is warranted.
Which way is the wind blowing today? SSW @ 5-10kts then the answer is to be conservative. Installing a regulator will protect your battery from overcharging and possilbly extend its life. It will also give you the flexibility to charge more than a single battery. The advice you quoted from the various sources is correct as a general rule of thumb and is therefore pretty conservative. It assumes that your solar panel is operating at near maximum efficiency which in the real world is probably only 50% accurate. You are most likey charging the battery with an average current of 500ma. The only thing to watch is battery fluid level which will give you an early warning of overcharging. You could also measure the actual charge current with a meter when the sun is directly overhead to determine just what maximum charge current is and see if regulator is warranted.
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Ray Bowles
Don't fix it if it aint broken. Our 95 H26 had...
all the trick electrical goodies. Gel battery, smart charger, shore power and a Honda 4 cycle outboard with 5 amp alternator. Well the goods went bad. First the smart charger quit. Well no problem, the outboard was a pull start type so no need for starting battery power. Then the battery would not hold much charge regardless of outboard running time. The problem and cure. The super great gel battery had died in 2 cells. (massive swelling) The smart charger was smart and refused to feed a dead horse. We replaced the battery with a very good marine deep cycle wet battery (couldn't justify the cost of gel or AGM) and have found that 1/2 to 1 hr a day running the o/b keeps us fully operational. Do you need electric start on your o/b bad enough to support the cost of 2 batteries? (1 pull on our Honda is enough) Our sailing is always 2 to 5 days a week from May to Oct. and we stay aboard. Only at the most of 2 times a season do we have access to shore power for our charger so our needs are met by the o/b. Ray
all the trick electrical goodies. Gel battery, smart charger, shore power and a Honda 4 cycle outboard with 5 amp alternator. Well the goods went bad. First the smart charger quit. Well no problem, the outboard was a pull start type so no need for starting battery power. Then the battery would not hold much charge regardless of outboard running time. The problem and cure. The super great gel battery had died in 2 cells. (massive swelling) The smart charger was smart and refused to feed a dead horse. We replaced the battery with a very good marine deep cycle wet battery (couldn't justify the cost of gel or AGM) and have found that 1/2 to 1 hr a day running the o/b keeps us fully operational. Do you need electric start on your o/b bad enough to support the cost of 2 batteries? (1 pull on our Honda is enough) Our sailing is always 2 to 5 days a week from May to Oct. and we stay aboard. Only at the most of 2 times a season do we have access to shore power for our charger so our needs are met by the o/b. Ray
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Bill Thiers
Curious about your reply, Mr. Bowles...
I'm curious about the o/b-based battery charging system you describe. Like the idea, would like to know the basic components & design, incl. how does the o/b drive the alternator? Is the alternator built in to the o/b? Thanks.
I'm curious about the o/b-based battery charging system you describe. Like the idea, would like to know the basic components & design, incl. how does the o/b drive the alternator? Is the alternator built in to the o/b? Thanks.
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Ron Mehringer
Outboard charging
Bill - Some outboards have an alternator built in. My 15hp Honda Four stroke does. The battery cables that provide the juice to start the outboard act as the charging cables when the ob is running. I don't believe that most of these systems have any intelligence to their charging. They simply provide 14.2V at upto a specified amp rating. I've never looked into it, but I imagine there probably exists some sort of charge controller that could be placed between the battery and the ob. But for the most part, the straight connection seems to work for most people. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
Bill - Some outboards have an alternator built in. My 15hp Honda Four stroke does. The battery cables that provide the juice to start the outboard act as the charging cables when the ob is running. I don't believe that most of these systems have any intelligence to their charging. They simply provide 14.2V at upto a specified amp rating. I've never looked into it, but I imagine there probably exists some sort of charge controller that could be placed between the battery and the ob. But for the most part, the straight connection seems to work for most people. Ron Mehringer s/v Hydro-Therapy
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Ray Bowles
Bill, The charging system I spoke of is built...
into my 1984 Honda 10hp o/b. It charges at a max rate of 5amps on, I believe 14.2 volts as mentioned before. The rate is based on engine RPM and otherwise not controlled. I have not found a need as of yet to control it. My o/b does not have electric state so I use a Honda supplied connector ($9) and 12 gauge wire to connect to the battery and have a switch to stop the charging if needed. Most newer o/b engines have this feature. Ray s/v Speedy
into my 1984 Honda 10hp o/b. It charges at a max rate of 5amps on, I believe 14.2 volts as mentioned before. The rate is based on engine RPM and otherwise not controlled. I have not found a need as of yet to control it. My o/b does not have electric state so I use a Honda supplied connector ($9) and 12 gauge wire to connect to the battery and have a switch to stop the charging if needed. Most newer o/b engines have this feature. Ray s/v Speedy
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Alan Long
Newer Hondas Are Regulated
Hi I'm about 99 percent sure that all recent vintage Honda outboards have a regulated charging system. My 2000 model 9.9 does, but I'm not sure when they started using it. My previous OMC outboard had charging, but was unregulated. Alan Long S/V Random Access (1994 23.5)
Hi I'm about 99 percent sure that all recent vintage Honda outboards have a regulated charging system. My 2000 model 9.9 does, but I'm not sure when they started using it. My previous OMC outboard had charging, but was unregulated. Alan Long S/V Random Access (1994 23.5)
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Sam LeStourgeon
Two nice but not needed?
I have two large batteries on my '95 Hunter 26. When I bought the boat last year something was draining my battery. I fixed by installing a large battery switch that could handle two batteries, then added a second battery. I run one down, then take home to charge and always have a backup battery. THis also allowed me to shut everything off after a sail (Except bildge pump) and this did solve my battery draining problem. A battery lasts me about 6 weeks. I also can charge from 9.9 hp motor but hooked that up two weeks ago and resulted in a real fire. Quick action and fire extinguisher put out the cable insulation that caught fire in about 3 seconds. This is the cable from the motor to battery that was already on boat that I connected. Yes, I took my time and thought I hooked it up right but obviously something was wrong. Some suspect the guage of wire installed was too small. Anyway, 1 or 2 batteries? It's nive to have that extra insurance of a second battery but may not be needed.
I have two large batteries on my '95 Hunter 26. When I bought the boat last year something was draining my battery. I fixed by installing a large battery switch that could handle two batteries, then added a second battery. I run one down, then take home to charge and always have a backup battery. THis also allowed me to shut everything off after a sail (Except bildge pump) and this did solve my battery draining problem. A battery lasts me about 6 weeks. I also can charge from 9.9 hp motor but hooked that up two weeks ago and resulted in a real fire. Quick action and fire extinguisher put out the cable insulation that caught fire in about 3 seconds. This is the cable from the motor to battery that was already on boat that I connected. Yes, I took my time and thought I hooked it up right but obviously something was wrong. Some suspect the guage of wire installed was too small. Anyway, 1 or 2 batteries? It's nive to have that extra insurance of a second battery but may not be needed.
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