1998 model 376 main sail

[sailfree20770]

I have a 1998 model 376, bought this spring. Still trying to sort out the main sail handling and lines. The boat has the Dutchman system, and single line reefing. The previous owner never had it set up correctly, so can't get much help there.

The manual that came with the boat has different mast and boom diagrams than my boat, so Hunter must have changed brands at some point. I think the manual refers to Z-Spars but I have SparCraft. Not much help there either.

I have everything working... sort of ok, but I'm sure there's room for improvements:

1. There seems to be a lot of friction in the deflector blocks where all the control lines run under the deck covers. I suspect these are some plain sheave type. Has anyone replaced these with better ball bearing units? Model number?

2. The sail has stainless steel rings at the reef points forward and cringles aft. So I assume the intent is to use a single block at the luff reef points, and simply run the reef lines through the cringles and back to the boom aft.
A block aft would also seem beneficial aft, but no diagrams I've seen so far show that. Has anyone added blocks at the clew reef points? Or, does the reefing system work ok for you?

3. The Dutchman topping lift pennant is pretty small wire. Is that normally the only thing holding the boom up when raising and lowering the sail? Do most owners trust that? I've also run a dacron 3/8" line attached to the same shackle as the Dutchman at the top, and the boom end at the bottom, but that doesn't seem ideal. I'll probably buy a new slightly larger wire for the Dutchman topping lift pennant. Suggestions?

4. The outhaul blocks inside the boom are obviously too small, and thus there is a lot of friction, plus they tend to catch on rivets and screws that protrude slightly into the boom where hardware is fastened. If anyone has upgraded, repaired or found better solutions please advise.

If anyone with a 1998 or similar model 376 has advice or photos of what works for them, please post it.

 

[DavidR]

I have the same boat and year. There was so much friction and tension in the blocks under the cover on the deck that it split the blocks. I replaced them with aluminum ones. I also installed Fast Track in the guide on the mast to help reduce friction, it's a Teflon type material and it helped. The main sail is the power on that boat and is large and heavy.

The Dutchman system was removed and lazy jacks installed, that you drop when the sail is down. I run shock cord the length of the boom, through the clips for the lazy jacks, and installed small hooks on the opposite side, spaced between the lazy jack clips and secure the sail by pulling the shock cord over the flaked sail and securing it on the hooks. Sure beats sail ties. I've made a number of other modifications if you're interested.

 

[Greg Reardon]

Hi, i also have a 1998 376 and experienced same issues under deck plate, within Z-Spar boom and at base of mast, and the Dutchman never quite did the job with the large main. I had my rigger straighten out the boom lines, i replaced blocks at mast base, took spinnaker halyard out of deck organizer and jamb cleated to mast, removed topping lift from deck organizer as well. A lot cleaner in the organizer and less friction with new mast base blocks. I also put in Tides Track but chose a Doyle Stack Pack to eliminate the Dutchman issues. No jambs, mo straining, easier raising and lowering sail, Took me 4 years to upgrade/ replace all but I'm very happy we did. Someday still sails great and the First Mate and I have an easier time.

 

[Bill19233]

The main on my 340 is not as big as a 376, but it's big and I put blocks on the reef rings and grommets. They helped immensely. I can get the reef tighter and make the main flatter, which really helps when the wind is up. And when I'm raising the main all the way up and it was left with a reef at the last sail, it goes up much easier.

 

[sailfree20770]

Hi Guys,
Thanks for all the info on upgrades. I'll add the reef point blocks asap, and work on upgrading the deflector blocks after our (short) sailing season is done. Probably should replace the mast base turning blocks as well.

The topping lift (Dutchman system pennant) seems to be working ok now, so will leave led aft as it's easier than going forward (seems to me). I replaced the small diameter wire with 3/8" rope, and changed the fish line attachment locations along the pennant.

I found the dimensions for the Dutchman pennant shown in the Hunter manual were WAY off. They also didn't match what was included with the sail, which were also wrong based on the Dutchman instructions. I made up a drawing to estimate the correct locations for the Dutchman line connections to the pennant, and used that for the replacement pennant. (I'll include a PDF) Works much better now.

There are widely varying opinions on the Dutchman vs other (lazy jack type) systems. I've had lazy jacks on previous boats, and had some annoying problems. Will try to make the Dutchman work for now.

 

[rfrye1]

Deck Plate on 376

I also have a 1998 376. I'm in AZ and my boat is in San Diego. I can't remember, is that deck plate removable? I have a leak that comes through the 3 center cabin lights that I am sure comes from inside there. If I spray water up into the deckplate it will leak.

Thanks. Bob

 

[sailfree20770]

rfrye1:
Yes, the deck plate is removable. But the mast has to come off first. I had to pull the deck plate / compression post assembly out to re-bed it.

On my boat the deck plate /mast step is in two parts. The mast step itself is cast aluminum. That sets on top of a stainless deck plate. The deck plate is welded to the compression post. The mast step and deck plate are bolted through the deck together. This is good because the deck is not in compression under the mast step. Actually, the compression post /deck plate is holding up the deck with six bolts. Except...

There were no nuts on the bolts originally, so the deck sagged away from the deck plate and the sealant failed. The bolts were merely screwed though the deck. I can see why the assembly crew failed to install nuts. The nuts (I added) were not easy to install through the tiny access port in the deck liner below.

There is a thick aluminum plate built into the deck at the mast step. It may have been intended that the bolts thread into that. But the plate didn't cover the entire bolt pattern so some bolts were not even through it. I drilled out the deck holes a little over size to make it easier to assemble, and to be sure the caulk got down into holes.

The counter weight for the table will need to be untied, as it will be difficult to lift the compression post out with it still in there. Then just leave the table in the lowered position. When it's time to replace the compression post, run a small messenger line through the post and connect it to the counter weight line below through the deck opening. The existing line was a little short to be convenient at this stage.

Get everything ready but do not caulk yet. Dry assemble everything first! Mask the plate and deck while dry assembled (it's going to get messy). Then lift the deck plate enough to do a good job of caulking under it. The mast step only needs a little caulk around the bolt holes. This takes two people (in my opinion). One below has to line up the counter weight and table as the compression post is lowered, and put the nuts on the bolts and hold them from turning. One above has to tighten the bolts. You'll need a big Phillips bit ( I think it's a #4) that fits a 3/8" ratchet handle to tighten the bolts. I wouldn't try just a big screwdriver.

Also, use some big fender washers under the nuts so they don't get pulled through the deck skin, which isn't very thick. The deck may need to be pulled up into position under the deck plate which puts considerable strain on the nuts and bolts.

Good luck.

 

[rfrye1]

Thanks SailFree.

After reading all that's involved I'm glad my boat is in San Diego, not Seattle! The small leak (small rain) is more of an annoyance. When we leave Her I just swing the dinette table away and leave the bilge hatch open. The small leak drips into the bilge. But keep in mind it only rains a few days a yr in SD......

 

[sailfree20770]

Rain a few days a year... must be nice!

It rains a lot here in Michigan, so leaving it alone wasn't an option for me. Water was running to both sides between the deck liner and deck, down to the lights port & starboard, then onto the wood shelves, etc.

I was also concerned about water migrating into the deck core. Sooner or later I'll have to sell the boat, and the surveyor would probably note the wet deck core.