1994 Hunter 26 Trailer Manufacturer

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
From previous posts to this forum, I see that many H26 trailers were manufactured by Magic Tilt. I am not near my H26 trailer to look at the data plate, but all of my old paperwork, including trailer title, list the manufacturer as "Hunter". The trailer serial number from the title is 1H9HS2528RA222053. I need to replace my trailer hubs. I have one of the hubs in hand, but I'm not near the trailer. I'm trying to find a starting point to getting the right replacement hub by getting the correct manufacturer. Any advice? Could I simply take the old hub to a boat trailer part shop and ask them to match it? Are the hub replacements very specific to the manufacturer? Thanks in advance for your help! BrianW
 

203

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Nov 5, 2013
73
Hunter 22 1983 Lake Norman
Brian,

Hubs are pretty generic. You need to match obvious things like bolt circle for the tire, and bearing fit to your axle, designed weight (GVWR)( which you may need to get off your trailer label ) and you should be good to go with any decent trailer shop locally. If not locally, then there are several on line trailer shops. trailerpart.com, etrailer.com and trailerpartsdepot.com come to mind. Or if you have a Northern Tool locally you can talk to them.

Have the hubs rusted to oblivion? Usually hubs last forever, and things that need to be replaced are bearings and studs. Much cheaper from a $ standpoint to replace these things. But if someone else is doing the work, then it's a tradeoff, as hubs are not so expensive, and it's pretty expensive to drive out bearing races at $40/hr, if you can get it done for that rate any more. Or if your hubs are rusted beyond repair then it's time for new ones.
 

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
More Info

Thanks 203 and Rick! My hubs had moderate corrosion on the exterior "sleeve" portion of the hub. It's not enough corrosion to affect the integrity of the hub, but I have several things going on. Some bozo over tighten all of the lug nuts and I snapped off three studs while attempting to manually remove the wheels. I ended up removing the whole hub assemblies with wheels attached. Even by later using an impact wrench, the nuts were contrary. I had to split two of the nuts off. So, I don't trust any of the nuts and studs with all they've been through. So, with the possible cost of bearing kits, studs and lug nuts, pounding out old studs and pressing in new studs, plus degreasing the rusty hubs and repainting, I may come out better replacing with a brand new hub assembly. I would appreciate advice. Thanks! BrianW
 
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BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
...... Also, any comments on trailer manufacturer would be appreciated! Thanks! BrianW
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,554
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
I Think I'd do the Same Thing

I think this is the hub:

http://www.championtrailers.com/545-galvanized-idler-hub-1-3-8-x-1-1-16-68149-44649-s-17255/

Just take it over to them and they will match it up.

Your trailer I believe was made by Hunter they were later contracted out to Magic Tilt I think. Yours trailer is about the same vintage as mine and if the axle is from the same manufacturer you need to be very careful and inspect it closely you are probably riding on borrowed time. Fortunately it is an easy job to replace them a pain in the ass to get off sometimes but all that is required is brawn no brain.
 

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Are the spindles part of the axles or are they an attachment to the axles? I guess I'm asking, are the axles and spindles one single piece?
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,554
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
One Piece Sorta

The spindles are generally welded to the axle tube.

So you have two spindles welded to either side of a piece of metal to make up the axle. I suppose one could remove the spindle from one axle and put it on another but the time and energy required to do that would be more than getting a new spindle out of the box and making up the new axle.

Did I make that confusing enough?
 

203

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Nov 5, 2013
73
Hunter 22 1983 Lake Norman
Brian,

Good call on replacing the hubs (c: You're talking way too much work to fix those and new ones are cheap and reliable. Studs plus bearing races = skinned knuckles and blood (c:

I'm in agreement about worrying about the axle. They rust from the inside, and if you already have rust issues then it may well be time for a new axle as well. If you're using a single axle you can get a new one with hubs and bearings for under $200. Maybe way under if you're lucky.

Charlie ( SeaTR ) just went thru putting a new one under his boat, and it's well documented in posts on this forum and the trailer forum. Look for 'now i've gone and done it' .. He has great pictures.

Richard
 

MABell

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Dec 9, 2003
232
Hunter 26 Orygun
Good times under the boat trailer

I had bearing\hub\spindle problems with my trailer. Dragging brakes overheated the bearings – took everything out.
Thought I could just replace the hubs and bearings when a friend took some liquid he uses to check engine blocks for invisible cracks. Turns out the spindles were spider-webbed with heat related stress cracks.
You can have a new spindle welded on to the ends of your axles, but it’s easier, I think, to just replace the entire axil(s).
I bought all the hardware from Eastern Marine http://www.easternmarine.com/
They are very helpful on the phone to sort out what exactly you need. Pay particular attention to measuring the for the length of the axil if you go that route.
While you’re at, you might as well install the Kodak stainless disk brakes :)
Have fun!
 
Jun 8, 2004
10,446
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Brian;

First, the trailer was manufactured by Hunter but when the 260 came out, they contracted the building of the trailer to Magic Tilt. As for parts, hopefully I have the right names for parts.

The wheel is mounted to a wheel rim which is mounted to the wheel hub via lug nuts onto studs that are permanently mounted into the hub. The brake drum plate or plate drum is mounted over the axle spindle via racers/bearings. The hub is mounted onto the spindle with another set of racers/bearings which is then held in place by an axle nut.

When replacing the entire assembly, you have to state if it is right or left hand axle assembly.

In your case, a little rust will not hurt but what has happened, the lug nuts are either tightened to tight and/or rusted for better lack of terms onto the stud. Sometimes when taking off the lug nuts, the threaded portion of the end of the studs have been damaged. Either way, I use to put on WD40 or PB Blaster lubricant to loosen up the threads which needed to be soaked by simply multiple applications over a period of time. I use to try then to break it loose by use of a lug wrench going backwards and then forward but forward only a little. Sometimes I had to heat up the studs/lug nuts but be careful if doing that.

You now have a couple of broke studs. I would then take the other lug nuts off and remove the wheel rim. Again, I would lubricate and heat and then try to remove grabbing what was left of the stud and again back and forth. If broken off to the rim, I would have used an easy out and if that failed, I would replace the drum which is costly.

To identify, bearings were generally 1.98 inches or most of the time referred to as two inch. Also, the size of wheel for example an R15240 which means the rim size and the 240 for lack of terms the size tire. Usually somewhere the axle is stamped with the mfg. and model of axle but that may be corroded to the point that you will not find it. Also mention the number of lugs too.

The forward axle had brakes only but inspection if never done of the bearings and racers if you do not know the history need to be checked and if you do not know how to do that, get someone who knows. If bearings are bad, automatically replace the racers/metal pieces that the bearings go round and round on as well as the bearings usually sold separate or together. If ever submersing into salt water, always rinse off trailer, wheels and axles.

If brakes, have them checked along with the fluids activating the brakes. If worn down, replace and have the hub checked to see if the inside surface is rough and if so, have them what we call "turned" to be smoother out.

There is a lot more but if ever putting back on the wheel rims, apply the nuts by hand if you do not know how to torque them on correctly. I hope this helps you sir.

crazy dave condon
 

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Thanks all! Y'all have been VERY helpful! I see a progressive trailer rebuild! What is probably next are the leaf spring assemblies, due to corrosion. If the spring assembly breaks, the whole axel comes loose! Next, but later, are the axels. BrianW
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,554
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
Tips on the Disasembly

Don't try it!

Dissect it.

If you do not have a rip saw this is the excuse to buy one. Cut the U bolts that hold the axle to the springs and buy new ones. As for the springs slide the saw blade in between the bracket and the spring eye and cut the bolt holding the spring on the trailer. Sometimes you get lucky and only have to cut one side off but not often. Buy the pack of blades instead of trying to get buy with one or two you are going to break at least three of them. You'll also want more than one twelve pack and the big box of big band aids.

I do the maintenance for our clubs youth sailing program and we probably have a dozen trailers. I've been averaging about two of these jobs a year. For a Muffuletta at the Blow Fly Inn I'd be tempted to lend a hand if I could get away.
 

BrianW

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Jan 7, 2005
843
Hunter 26 Guntersville Lake, (AL)
Rick Nailed It!

Hey Rick, you picked exactly the right hub assembly! I went to Champion Trailers in Slidell, LA like you recommended I priced a bearing kit and new studs/nuts vs. the whole new hub assembly (with races installed). I paid $6 more per wheel for the whole shebang! With a 10% discount coupon, each hub assembly was $34. Quite a bargain!

Thanks everyone for y'alls help! BrianW
 
Jun 2, 2004
3,554
Hunter 23.5 Fort Walton Yacht Club, Florida
Glad to Hear it

Now quit screwing around with the trailer and go sailing!