1994 35.5 legend hood furler question

[shavdog]

I received my hunter last week...masts down....I reassembled the spreader bars and did a few other things and I am puzzled with the hood furler...when I visited the sailboat a month ago I looked at the pin connection in the anchor well and saw that I could not get my hand behind there to work so I thought the unit would have to slide up the extrusion in order to expose the turnbuckle so I could put the pin in place....this is where it gets complicated...I removed the nylon allen screw and by alittle force and bending the shroud some I was able to tap out the one tack socket haves and work the other one out also...at that point I could slide the housing up the extrusion...problem comes in as I see it when I put the pin in , the only way I can get the two haves back in place is by lowering the centering piece so I have enough play to replace the two haves but then I cant tighten the centering piece back to its original position and tighten the two allen bolts that will be inside the drum at bottom..is there a sequence to this ?...I looked in the owners manual but that didn't help...thanks for any help..craig...there has to be a way to do this...hope this makes sense...Is it possible to put the pin in without exposing the turnbuckle?

 

[shavdog]

We came up with an idea that might work....we can get the unit back to where it was in its final position....we thought we could take a string attached to the cotter key hole in the pin and run it thru the back toggle then thru the plate then thru the front toggle and at the point lower in position and pull it pin thru all three and insert the cotter key... think that might work?

 

[Apex]

I had to go back to the hood furler manual in the general downloads: check page 9, starting at step 10.

the swivel and drive (furling drum) should be installed, but not the tack sockets. That allows you to slide the drum up out of the way. Tape or secure the drum up out of your way to work on the turnbuckle and centering clamp. Once the turnbuckle and clamp are installed, the drum drops into position. And the tack bearings can be installed last in position. the tube on the drum will move enough to install the aft bearing (with pin) into position first, then the forward which is secured in position with the nylon screw. Hood makes a note to make sure the last luff bearing is above the tack bearing positions. (FIG. 5)

Hope that helps....

 

[shavdog]

This sunday the mast goes up on my new to me 1994 35.5 legend...I have had a lot of time to figure out how best to re insert the roller furling pin in the bow....I have a hole cutter and will cut a 6inch hole in the bow of the boat so my hand fits in ...just kidding...my wife gave me a 6inch metal kitchen tong....I dug out my two sided tape for putting on new grips on golf clubs...I put a piece of tape on the one end and the pin which is quite heavy stuck to it and did not move...my plan is to get it started over the back toggle and slide it down the plate until it goes thru the hole....I don't have my fingers in there at all...the tong is about 1/4" wide where the bottom of the furler meets up close to the top of the plate....I kind of feel like mcguiver...just hope I'm not the biggest loser...I will report in and hope to help out some other legend owner faced with that dilemma....

 

[shavdog]

Mast went up today....Total time was about two hours....one hour of that time was spent putting the pin in the roller furling unit...my invention lasted about one minute....fell apart...I ended up able to put my hand down from the top and get the pin started in the toggle but do you think it would go thru the plate and thru the other side of the toggle...that took about 45 minutes of jiggling. Then the pin hole wouldn't show 100% so I had to wedge a screwdriver to compress the toggle so the hole in the pin would show so I could put in my cotter pin...that took about 30 minutes....anyway it's done....I am happy....we did the job with sailors helping sailors....life doesn't get better than that....The only thing I might do if I had to do this over would be to slightly taper the end of the pin to give it an easier chance at starting it thru the plate and toggle side on the other end...

 

[Steverhnm]

I had to go back to the hood furler manual in the general downloads: check page 9, starting at step 10.

the swivel and drive (furling drum) should be installed, but not the tack sockets. That allows you to slide the drum up out of the way. Tape or secure the drum up out of your way to work on the turnbuckle and centering clamp. Once the turnbuckle and clamp are installed, the drum drops into position. And the tack bearings can be installed last in position. the tube on the drum will move enough to install the aft bearing (with pin) into position first, then the forward which is secured in position with the nylon screw. Hood makes a note to make sure the last luff bearing is above the tack bearing positions. (FIG. 5)

Hope that helps....

I use a Harbor Freight extra long nose with 45 deg bend. Its like 10-12 inches long Works quite well. Good luck.