1992 H30 topping lift replacement - what to use?

[Sherry]

I am replacing the topping lift. The owner's manual says 5/16" low stretch dacron, 86' long, with an eye splice.

What kind of line should I buy for this? Are the Samson XLS lines appropriate? Just the plain XLS or XLS Extra or T?

Also, I am 2 hours away from my boat, and I'm not sure what size the splice should be. Does anybody know? Thanks in advance for the help!!

 

[Sailgunner]

Installl a ridgid vang and you won't need the topping lift.

 

[Sherry]

Looking at the rigid vangs, they're about $400 to $450? Is that right? Replacing the line is cheap and easy.

 

[Alan]

True, it is cheaper but your missing a critical sail control without a vang. Topping lift is not a sail control. It simply keeps your boom up when the main is down. A rigid vang will solve both issues at the same time. Once you start to learn to use your vang you'll wonder why you ever sailed without it.

 

[Sherry]

I don't disagree with the above notes about rigid vang. But I'm not doing that right now. What I really need is advice on what type of line to buy and what type of splice is needed to replace my current topping lift. Does anybody have suggestions? Would Samson XLS be appropriate? Thanks in advance.

 

[Clark]

With a rating of 3300 lbs, the XLS should do fine. All the "T" means is that a tracer color has been added. Just inspect it yearly along with all your other lines. FYI, our 280 has 1/4" XLS Extra and the main/boom is about as big as yours.

 

[Sherry]

Clark,
Thank you so much for your reply. That's what I needed to know! I appreciate the help.
Sherry

 

[Sherry]

Oh and I see you're not far from us! I love your area!

 

[Sailgunner]

When you do decide to go to a rigid vang look at Garhauer. I put one on my 91 30T and it installs easy and works great.

 

[Clark]

Sherry, I tried to edit my post last night but the site had gone wonky. An eye splice at the "business end" is for attaching hardware (shackles or blocks) that would be a part of your topping lift system. They are stronger than a knot and look nice too but cost ~ $25 from a supplier. Your call.

BTW, I just got a new (to us) Capri 22 out of Pickwick a week ago and that lake looked very nice but we've never been on that part of the TN. Gonna use the 22 for racing while our 280 is our cruiser.

 

[jtm]

have you looked into a boomkicker? I think perhaps the K1000model +/-$200 l for that boat . Also- on my H28.5 I have a wire that comes from the top of the mast to about 8 ft above the boom(level location- then there's a a line bowlined into the wire's eye, down thru the end of the boom then forward to a pulley and lever jam cleat. A wire isn't a "half bad solution and you wont need so much line.

 

[stephen Penny]

Local rigger advised me to use 3/8" low stretch Sampson XLS Extra. That is what I plan to replace my halyards with.

 

[Clark]

Not sure how an early 90's 30 compares with a 31. The stronger the better (within budgets) as long as the sheaves' size accommodates the line diameter. An oversized line can chafe on the sheave or sheave box.

 

[jorgefife]

Please allow me to join in: I have a H33 (1982) and also need a topping lift; I was told a steel stainless 3/16" is adequate.
Could I go with thicker wire, such as 1/4" ?

 

[Clark]

I suppose you could; especially if that section is fixed and adjudtments are made with a line from the boom tail up to a small block on the topping lift then back to a block/cleat on the boom. It would be heavier than 3/16" - if that matters - and more stiff.

If the wire runs all the way up to the top, over a wire block (then to a wire rope splice?) and down the mast to the cockpit, I'd be carefull. Once again, your concern would be getting the right size wire for the wire block up top (if there is one).