1990 Pearson 38' Core and Deck Replacement

[jerseyjoe]

I have an area on my starboard deck in and around the gate area of my deck where the core is wet. I was thinking of getting at it from underneath inside the cabin but would require taking out the cabinet and head liner behind the stove. I have my boat in Rhode Island at the moment getting some repairs and the yard suggesting cutting out some of the deck. Problem is the deck has a pattern molded into the fiberglass that I would need to duplicate. I was looking for another Pearson 38' that may be for salvage that was damaged from hurricane Sandy ( not wishing this on anyone) I could buy and cut out a section of deck. This all is a lot of work so I was hoping someone on this forum had some experience and suggestions for an easier repair.

Thanks,

Joe

 

[RichH]

The top skin of the decking of most Pearsons is quite thin.

On my old P30, I too had a significant area of 'wet core' and I decided that destruction of the thin skin top would leave a mess, destruction of the non-skid, and a cosmetic mismatch of the repair to the surrounding areas. This was an wet area of approx. ~1 ft. X 3 ft. and of course emanating from the notorious gasketed stancheon bases.

I elected to work from the bottom, to avoid cosmetic destruction of the top skin; opened the bottom skin, removed (chisled, chipped and ground) all the soggy core, etc. and using 'thickened' very slow cure epoxy (to avoid a 'foam out' due to a run-away exothermic reaction ... plus ICE on the still integral 'top skin'). I 'jacked' all the new and epoxy pre-prepared replacement components in place from the bottom side, and finished the 'ceiling' with thick cloth and matt. I added a structural cloth layer directly to the underside of the 'top skin'. The critical part in the whole episode was to ensure that the epoxy didnt 'kick' with much heat release causing a 'foam out' and catastrophic 'pushing' of the substrate (possibly expanding and breaking the top skin). To keep the reaction heat to a minimum, I did all the laminating by one layer at a time and let fully cure and cool down before applying the next layer. Finishing was by the use of a beltsander to level the bottom surface, followed by cloth, epoxy fill, and several thin (but thickened) 'finish coats' of epoxy, then painted. Jacking using a plate covered with heavy plastic (for easy 'release') sheeting to press in the final 'lower laminate' kept the 'under deck' quite flat and even with the original, and a lot of detail grinding to prep for the 'next' layer.
If you 'carefully' saw out the inner 'liner' it will replace quite easily using epoxy 'mush' and all youll see is the thin cut lines when done - a fein tool with thin cabinet carblde bladeS and a steel straight edge will keep the 'cut' of the liner 'straight'.
Obviously there was a LOT of epoxy spillage due to 'gravity' and from working 'upside down'. Expect a stiff neck and sore arms.

That boat 13 years later and with a new owner still shows NO signs from the 'outside' that a repair was ever made.

Because of the extra thin top of a Pearson deck, and difficulty in 'repairing' because of the 'thinness' I would again recommend anyone repairing a Pearson deck to do it from 'underneath' ... and no matter how much cabinetry, etc. you have to remove. Epoxy run-away exothermic reactions causing 'foam out' and 'pressure build' up causing possible pushing apart of the entire structure is your biggest concern ... do this 'slow' and in 'single layers' to let each cure before proceeding with the next layer.

hope this helps. Good luck. Be sure to wear a plastic 'rain coat' if you do the repair this way.

;-)

 

[jerseyjoe]

The top skin of the decking of most Pearsons is quite thin.

On my old P30, I too had a significant area of 'wet core' and I decided that destruction of the thin skin top would leave a mess, destruction of the non-skid, and a cosmetic mismatch of the repair to the surrounding areas. This was an wet area of approx. ~1 ft. X 3 ft. and of course emanating from the notorious gasketed stancheon bases.

I elected to work from the bottom, to avoid cosmetic destruction of the top skin; opened the bottom skin, removed (chisled, chipped and ground) all the soggy core, etc. and using 'thickened' very slow cure epoxy (to avoid a 'foam out' due to a run-away exothermic reaction ... plus ICE on the still integral 'top skin'). I 'jacked' all the new and epoxy pre-prepared replacement components in place from the bottom side, and finished the 'ceiling' with thick cloth and matt. I added a structural cloth layer directly to the underside of the 'top skin'. The critical part in the whole episode was to ensure that the epoxy didnt 'kick' with much heat release causing a 'foam out' and catastrophic 'pushing' of the substrate (possibly expanding and breaking the top skin). To keep the reaction heat to a minimum, I did all the laminating by one layer at a time and let fully cure and cool down before applying the next layer. Finishing was by the use of a beltsander to level the bottom surface, followed by cloth, epoxy fill, and several thin (but thickened) 'finish coats' of epoxy, then painted. Jacking using a plate covered with heavy plastic (for easy 'release') sheeting to press in the final 'lower laminate' kept the 'under deck' quite flat and even with the original, and a lot of detail grinding to prep for the 'next' layer.
If you 'carefully' saw out the inner 'liner' it will replace quite easily using epoxy 'mush' and all youll see is the thin cut lines when done - a fein tool with thin cabinet carblde bladeS and a steel straight edge will keep the 'cut' of the liner 'straight'.
Obviously there was a LOT of epoxy spillage due to 'gravity' and from working 'upside down'. Expect a stiff neck and sore arms.

That boat 13 years later and with a new owner still shows NO signs from the 'outside' that a repair was ever made.

Because of the extra thin top of a Pearson deck, and difficulty in 'repairing' because of the 'thinness' I would again recommend anyone repairing a Pearson deck to do it from 'underneath' ... and no matter how much cabinetry, etc. you have to remove. Epoxy run-away exothermic reactions causing 'foam out' and 'pressure build' up causing possible pushing apart of the entire structure is your biggest concern ... do this 'slow' and in 'single layers' to let each cure before proceeding with the next layer.

hope this helps. Good luck. Be sure to wear a plastic 'rain coat' if you do the repair this way.

;-)

Rich,

Great advice!! The place I have my boat right now is doing some bottom blister repair. The owner, who said he worked for Pearson back in the day didn't think going at it from underneath would work too well. I'm not a boat builder or aficionado but I am a general contractor in construction and il always looking at different ways to tackle problems and pic the best and move forward. I agree that leaving the decking alone is best on a boat that has not a single blemish. Going at this job from underneath is the only way.

Thanks again and you just have me the confidence to know I was correct and the ambition to tackle this awful but rewarding job!!

Joe

 

[NYSail]

Joe

I have p36-2 that had wet core along the jib sail track on both sides as well as at stanchion bases.. I re-cored the deck from the cockpit all the way to the foredeck from the top..... Much easier. I cut the deck and chiseled the wet balsa out and replaced with nidacore. Also I had the original non skid replaced..... A few issues that I would have had done differently but overall the job and results were great. If you want to discuss more, drop me a message and I will answer any questions. For me based on the price I got the boat for it was well worth it.....

Good luck
Greg

 

[jerseyjoe]

Joe

I have p36-2 that had wet core along the jib sail track on both sides as well as at stanchion bases.. I re-cored the deck from the cockpit all the way to the foredeck from the top..... Much easier. I cut the deck and chiseled the wet balsa out and replaced with nidacore. Also I had the original non skid replaced..... A few issues that I would have had done differently but overall the job and results were great. If you want to discuss more, drop me a message and I will answer any questions. For me based on the price I got the boat for it was well worth it.....

Good luck
Greg

Greg,

How were you able to replicate the deck pattern and repair it so it didn't look like a patch?

Of course doing to job from above deck is easier than from below but I don't know how to do that without it looking like a patch.

Joe

 

[NYSail]

The original pattern is still available. What my guy did was to make a reverse mold of the non skid, cut to fit the entire deck then after glassing in the new core, he attached the non skid down with epoxy. A few things I would have done differently but overall it looks real good. I have photos of the entire job I would be more than happy to share.