1987 Cat 22 Running Rigging

Feb 20, 2016
116
Catalina 22 Palm Harbor
Installing new standing rigging while mast is down. Owners manual requires 65' total up and down. Assume I'll need to add footage while bringing line back to cockpit with managed little to store when sail is up.
What is the best way to feed a 3/8" line through the mast when it is up or down? One would think either way that there needs a sewn mending of the old to the new and just pulled through, correct. Otherwise how do you push a wet or dry rope down the mast when starting at the mast head while the mast is down.? Mast is currently down............................
 
Feb 20, 2016
116
Catalina 22 Palm Harbor
Also looking for competitive providers other than West Marine. I plan to completely replace all the running rigging along with the Standing Rigging that I purchased form Catalina Direct on Friday.
 
Jul 19, 2013
317
Pearson 31-2 Boston
3/8" seems like pretty hefty halyard line size for 22'. Do you some doc for that, I would think 5/16" max, or less.
 
Feb 20, 2016
116
Catalina 22 Palm Harbor
Owner's Manual: Category: Running Rigging
Main Sheet = 3/8" Dacron, 65'-0" Length
Jib Sheet = 3/8" Dacron 45'-0" Length
 
Sep 30, 2013
3,291
1988 Catalina 22 central Florida
What is the best way to feed a 3/8" line through the mast when it is up or down? One would think either way that there needs a sewn mending of the old to the new and just pulled through, correct.
I use a small torch to melt the ends of the two lines together.
 

ShawnL

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Jul 29, 2020
55
Catalina 22 3603 Calumet Mi
I taped mine together end-to-end with electrical tape. Don't skimp on the tape, you don't want to loose a line 1/2 way through. My lines are on the outside of the mast, but the mast was up when I did it. Also heard of people sewing the lines together with a needle and thread.
 
Aug 19, 2019
28
C&C 25 mk2 Seneca Lake
To run a messenger line use a needle and whipping twine (or equivalent strong thread/string) to connect the lines end to end, and as stated previously - use a generous amount of electrical tape to wrap the area. I have used this method for changing out running rigging with the mast up without any issues.
 
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Apr 11, 2017
565
Catalina C22 Solomon's Island, MD
As far as prices, I bought a lot of rope from Defender, on-line. Good luck - I was doing the same thing, a few years ago.
 
Feb 21, 2013
3,775
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
.........What is the best way to feed a 3/8" line through the mast when it is up or down? One would think either way that there needs a sewn mending of the old to the new and just pulled through, correct. Otherwise how do you push a wet or dry rope down the mast when starting at the mast head while the mast is down.? Mast is currently down.........Also looking for competitive providers other than West Marine......
See a tag (messenger) line to the existing running rigging, tape it, pull it through then remove the old line, measure, purchase new line then reverse the process. While I often purchased my running rigging from a local rigger (West Marine) when I need advise on special line specifications, I have also purchased from on-line marine chandlery like this site and Defender.
 

Joe

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Jun 1, 2004
7,447
Catalina 27 Mission Bay, San Diego
Forget the manual. Use 5/16 for the halyards. On my C27 I built "tapered" halyards by covering a core of 3/16 Samson Amsteel (dyneema) with a 5/16 dacron sheath over handled and cleated bottom half of the line. Easy to splice, way stronger than 3/8 dacron, doesn't stretch, and runs through the blocks like a dream. You can buy the 5/16 as a cover only, or use a less expensive double braid that you can use its existing polyester core to fish the new dyneema core into place. Cost wise... 80 ft of 3/16 amsteel was about .80/ft and 40 ft of 5/16 Samson LS (for the cover) was about .60ft.... or around $88. You can use a simple stamped halyard shackle for around $10 or go with a forged, captive pin elongated D shackle for twice that. Or... no shackle at all....use the very cool "halyard knot" In the end you will have a very salty set of halyards that not only function well, but look fabulous.

OBTW.... since the mast is down, you can tie a weight to a length of fishing line (or any lightweight twine) drop it down the tube, then lift up the end and let gravity do the rest. Then you can use the leader to pull the halyard through.
 
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AaronD

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Aug 10, 2014
537
Catalina 22 9874 Newberg, OR / Olympia, WA
Forget the manual. Use 5/16 for the halyards. On my C27 I built "tapered" halyards by covering a core of 3/16 Samson Amsteel (dyneema) with a 5/16 dacron sheath over handled and cleated bottom half of the line. Easy to splice, way stronger than 3/8 dacron, doesn't stretch, and runs through the blocks like a dream. You can buy the 5/16 as a cover only, or use a less expensive double braid that you can use its existing polyester core to fish the new dyneema core into place. Cost wise... 80 ft of 3/16 amsteel was about .80/ft and 40 ft of 5/16 Samson LS (for the cover) was about .60ft.... or around $88. You can use a simple stamped halyard shackle for around $10 or go with a forged, captive pin elongated D shackle for twice that. Or... no shackle at all....use the very cool "halyard knot" In the end you will have a very salty set of halyards that not only function well, but look fabulous.

OBTW.... since the mast is down, you can tie a weight to a length of fishing line (or any lightweight twine) drop it down the tube, then lift up the end and let gravity do the rest. Then you can use the leader to pull the halyard through.
Similar setup on my C-22. Joe used 5/16" on his 27; for the 22, I used 5/32" Endura 12 covered with the cover of 1/4" Sta-Set - the final line is just about exactly the same diameter as 1/4" dacron. Endura 12 is New England Ropes' equivalent of Amsteel - it's easier to find 5/32" in E-12, and 5/32" is a perfect core size for 1/4" line.

For sheets that you handle and adjust constantly, 3/8" or larger is nice. But for halyards (which generally aren't adjusted as frequently), I've found 1/4" to work just fine.
 
Jan 1, 2006
6,073
Slickcraft 26 Greenport, NY
This may be late advice but I don't like to tape halyards or other running rigging together to replace. Tape makes the line more thick and makes the line not run around sheaves or blocks cleanly. Take the time to sew them together. Post #6 indicates. no issues. I've had issues.
 
Feb 20, 2016
116
Catalina 22 Palm Harbor
I Agree. Wife let me borrow a huge needle so all I need to do is get to Jo Ann Fabrics and pick up some heavy thread.
Appreciate the heads up.
 
Dec 5, 2011
531
Catalina Catalina 22 #13632 Phenix City
When doing line to line work, I have always used paracord on both ropes. I tie several clove hitches on the last 2-3" of the old line and then do the same to the end of the new line. No sewing, no tape residue, the rope union stays flexible and the more you pull on a clove hitch, the tighter it grips. This is what has worked for me.
 
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