we have the same boat. a few years back i replaced the entire teak and holly cabin sole. Your best friend will be a good "nubby" or short handled Phillips screwdriver. You will have to remove all seating areas and settee cabinetry in order to get to the sole. These are attached by brass screws that hold the cleats down and the cabinetry to the cleat. Once these are removed, the main salon sole is in two pieces. One fore/aft to starboard and one to port. the difficult ones are the portside under the chart table and on starboard side for galley. You'll have to remove other teak trim in order to get to the galley side sole. with some help, you can lift up the chart table area and slide (with some wrangling) and remove intact. cabinetry opposite the sink area is a bit tough as well. You'll have to remove the wooden cleats along the bottom of the cabinet unit.
i replaced with teak and holly plywood sheets from a local lumber yard that stocked this material. the main cabin areas are 3/4" thick and V berth is 1/2".
once i had the sole removed, I used it as a template to cut out new sole. be careful when reinstalling. The hulls aren't very thick and when drilling and counter sinking the screws into the liner, be sure to set the depth on your drill bit. amazing what an 1/8" pilot hole can do when piercing the hull haha. Good thing for marine epoxy and a yard with quick haul capabilities. Before reinstalling new cabin sole, seal all edges and underboard with a good epoxy.
One final note, while you have all the cabinetry removed, I suggest installing an inspection plate on port and starboard side below each rod support for chain plate so you can better inspect this attachment point. the inspection "window" that hunter has is not sufficient to determine rust and failure point. this is where mine broke off causing rig failure.
