This is new purchase and a re-build project. There are lots of spider cracks around the deck and cabin top. Also as I walk around the deck there are a few spots where you hear slight a crunching noise. This 30 year old boat has not had a lot use over it entire life, the last registration sticker is dated 2001. First question, is this 1984 Hunter 31 a core deck? Second, weather it's a core deck or not what steps will In need to take before painting the deck and cabin top? Third, any recommendations paint for decking?
1984 Hunter 31/ Deck
- Thread starter Tom Fritz
- Start date
The 31 is a great boat we bought one three years ago and really like it. Not sure about the coring. I would have someone walk around the deck and you get below and try to isolate the where the sounds are coming from. A previous owner of our boat reinforced the aft end of the cockpit with a fiberglass strip then painted it.
For paint - it is dependent on how much work you want and the finish your looking for. Most DIY will get a gelcoat filler for the cracks - you tube has some great videos on gel coat repair. I've always use Interlux Brightside one step for above the waterline. It is easy to work with and the tech support is really good. We rolled and tipped and got a really nice finish. I have friends use the two step product, but again how much time do you want to paint or sail for this season. Here is a quick link to get you started:
http://www.boatingmag.com/how/diy-projects/how-repair-damaged-gelcoat
Good luck
For paint - it is dependent on how much work you want and the finish your looking for. Most DIY will get a gelcoat filler for the cracks - you tube has some great videos on gel coat repair. I've always use Interlux Brightside one step for above the waterline. It is easy to work with and the tech support is really good. We rolled and tipped and got a really nice finish. I have friends use the two step product, but again how much time do you want to paint or sail for this season. Here is a quick link to get you started:
http://www.boatingmag.com/how/diy-projects/how-repair-damaged-gelcoat
Good luck
There is plywood between the cabin liner and the exterior deck. If you are going to try to fix the spider cracks you should consider fixing with gel coat. You should consider buffing out the boat before you attempt to paint it.
If you need to redo the non-skid you may want to consider Kiwi Grip (from this website).
If you need to redo the non-skid you may want to consider Kiwi Grip (from this website).
I painted my 83 H31 last year. PM me if you want to hear about the details. It is pretty involved, I took two weeks off of work to get it done all at once. But I had no choice about painting. Gel coat was gone in a few places and fiberglass was peeking through. Glad I did it though. Completely changed her appearance, touch ups and adding a coat is easy. The hassle is making the gel coat ready to receive paint.
I would like the details. I also have gel coat missing on the cockpit hatches and anchor locker hatch. Any good advice appreciated.
Here ya go. Tom, first Don Casey’s book This Old Boat is a great resource for any project boat. I have a copy at home and one on the boat. Also, Interlux has an ask the expert thing online, and I have actually called and spoken with some of their technical advisors and they are helpful.
Once you have committed to DIY, to paint the topsides the first thing you need to do is decide one part or two part. This was my first time to paint with marine paint or paint a boat so I opted for the less durable easier to use one part Brightside by Interlux. (Good reviews in Practical Sailor) I used white, where I live and in St. Pete even a light gray or beige can heat up. I mixed in Intergrip to the paint for my nonskid areas. This is a must, because just paint over the nonskid is super slick.
I bought the majority of my supplies at Home Depot or Sherwin Williams. You need smooth foam rollers 2in and 4in trays, tape etc. . For doing the molded nonskid you will need four inch with some nap on it. (I found the 2in very helpful for tighter spots.) You will also need lots of sandpaper, I bought a new sander that uses quarter sheets of sandpaper, the kind indicated in Don Casey’s book, it was a good call. I bought all of my primer, paint, cleaners and thinners online from a place in FL and saved about three hundred dollars over West Marine and local chandlery including shipping. Lots of foam brushes and one good badger hair brush.
Start with a really good cleaning, then remove every piece of deck hardware, hinges etc. that you can, I left the cleats. Then use Interlux de-waxing solvent 202 I used less than a quart. Wipe everything down liberally, then rinse (as directed on the can I think) I never found any gloves that would stand up to this solvent it ate through three pair of “chemical resistant gloves”. Then start sanding, you are not sanding everything off, just making it ready to take the primer. I forget but I think I went 80, 150, 220 before I primed. You do not want to get down to the fiberglass. Then fill and fair any holes or damage that you want taken care of sand those to smooth. Wash down, wipe down with Interlux 333 using two rag method. (one for wetting one for wiping). Then prime the whole topside, I rolled it on and tipped it. When dry, sand, wash wipe and paint.
I painted the whole topside with one coat, rolled and tipped everything. Did the deck one day and the coach roof and cockpit the next. Then taped off all the nonskid areas, mixed in the intergrip (stirring frequently) using the rollers with nap on them did two coats. I did paint the tops of the raised area just in front of the cockpit with the nonskid paint and I love that, otherwise that would be slick. I roughed up with a scotchbrite pad between coats on the nonskid. Pull the tape then paint the smooth areas, roll and tip. Sanding and wiping between coats. I kept the brush near by rolled a little area and tipped. I used foam brushes for all but the final coat where I used the badger hair brush.
One thing I did and was glad I did was take the tops off of the lazarettes in the cockpit took them home and practiced on them before starting full bore. It was very helpful and frankly encouraging to do that first. That way if it was a total disaster I could put cushions on them and be done.
I ended up putting some Seadek pads down in the cockpit floor, I really like them. My dad had thrown down some Awlgrip paint without prepping properly and it was coming off and I could not get it out of all the recesses so I covered it. Here are some pics.
By the way, note the hatch lens in the picture with the tape, I dropped a rag with the 202 solvent on the lens for about five minutes and it melted a part of if. I eventually got it buffed out but that is bad stuff, handle it with care.
I hope this helps. PM me if you need something else.
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Thanks so much for the job details. This will help me prepare and eliminate mistakes.
Looks like you are in St Pete Municipal, I sail out of St Pete with Simple Sailing. The deck (boat) looks great, would love the take a look at her one day. Thanks again! Tom
Looks like you are in St Pete Municipal, I sail out of St Pete with Simple Sailing. The deck (boat) looks great, would love the take a look at her one day. Thanks again! Tom
I didn't realize there was a St Pete TX. Thanks againI have recently done the topsides on my 84 31 with Interlux perfection. I am considering the the decks for this spring. The question I have is regarding the nonslip areas. Did tipping move the paint enough to keep it from collecting in the dimples and not filling them up with paint.
Dave
Dave
I did not tip the nonskid at all. I mixed in Intergrip and rolled it with a four inch roller with a nap. It came out great no pooling or puddles. The non skid is the easiest part.
Tom, I did one coat of thinned Brightside over the whole topside, smooth and non skid. Then taped off the edge of the non skid and smooth. Then did two coats with the paint mixed with the Integrip polymers at the maximum level recommended on the can. A fourth can't hurt. Each coat fills in the low areas in the non skid, but that would be a lifetime of paint to fill them in.
One tipi failed to mention about painting the smooth areas. In his book Don Casey recommends that you thin the paint a little at a time and test how it will flow out by painting a part of a pane of glass. Every day is different and what flowed out nicely yesterday may not today. So I dropped $15 or so on some precut panes of glass. Money well spent.
I did make it out sailing today, it was a gorgeous day on the Texas coast! Hope you got out today too!
Mike
One tipi failed to mention about painting the smooth areas. In his book Don Casey recommends that you thin the paint a little at a time and test how it will flow out by painting a part of a pane of glass. Every day is different and what flowed out nicely yesterday may not today. So I dropped $15 or so on some precut panes of glass. Money well spent.
I did make it out sailing today, it was a gorgeous day on the Texas coast! Hope you got out today too!
Mike