1984 H34 Electrical Panel Replacement Indicator Light Bulb?

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dqb24

dqb24

.
Nov 4, 2011
49
Quintessence Hunter 34 Annapolis, MD
I did a search...no luck. As you can see from my pic - Amber (AC Main) is burned out, as are a couple red DC bulbs, so i am needing to replace a few bulbs.
Does anyone have info on these indicator bulbs and/or know sourcing...Radio Shack or? and part numbers?

While I'm at it, does anyone have bulb part number on the tractor bulb spreader lights that are on the SS riverted swivel base. As 1000 miles of road transport both were out, I assumed bad wiring, but the bulbs may be the easier answer...having one or two inhand before going up might be wise.

Thanks,
Dave
 

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Allan12210

Allan12210

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Jan 22, 2008
1,662
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Dave,

I changed all of my lamps to LEDs after it became more of a pain to find the regular indicator lamps. There is a significant power savings also. I bought Blue Sea LEDs from Defender....12 volt red and 110 volt amber. I never could find the red reverse polarity 110 volt LED, but since that one isn't used much, I just left it.

The only problem is that the LEDs are smaller than the holes in the panel, so I made my own adapters. Luckily, I have a lathe and made a bunch of aluminum inserts that just pressed into the panel and the LEDs fit into that. There is probably some sort of plastic lamp adapter that you can find to do the same thing. I really like the LEDs on the panel and don't worry so much that those lamps don't pull my batteries down when we are at anchor.

Allan
 

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Jim D

Jim D

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Dec 10, 2007
139
Hunter 410 Maryland
radio shed

go to radio shack. i replaced yellow bulbs with the radio shack ac bulbs. direct fit no need to drill out different.
on the red bulbs dc. just use the led red they sell. no need to modify holes in panel either. jd
 
dqb24

dqb24

.
Nov 4, 2011
49
Quintessence Hunter 34 Annapolis, MD
Jim D said:
go to radio shack. i replaced yellow bulbs with the radio shack ac bulbs. direct fit no need to drill out different.
on the red bulbs dc. just use the led red they sell. no need to modify holes in panel either. jd
Click to expand

Thank Jim. Since the boat is not nearby, and I have not seen the guts of the panel, yet....can you confirm is it as Claude says...is soldering is part of the drill to replace the indicators with the Radio Shack LED's? Not a fluent skill in my arsenal. yet. if so worth the time? Another LED vendor I've had luck with is www.oznium.com and they have prewired LEDs. This is what I found...same as Radio Shack? Would prewired streamline the replacement process or are we still talking solder?
Thanks,
Dave

Also...any leads on the spreader light tractor bulbs ...or better yet, an LED alternative?
Cheers.
 
kloudie1

kloudie1

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Nov 6, 2006
10,066
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Re: 1984 H34 Electrical Panel Replacement Indicator Light Bu

The Radio Shack ones fit right into the panel but they have a nut on the backside that has to be tightened. The originals had a snap-lock fitting. The soldering was because the wires supplied from R.S. on the LED's are too short . I cut the original wires at the base of the old fixture and solder spliced with heat shrink insulation to the new wires. didn't have to undo the original terminals that way.
 
dqb24

dqb24

.
Nov 4, 2011
49
Quintessence Hunter 34 Annapolis, MD
kloudie1 said:
The Radio Shack ones fit right into the panel but they have a nut on the backside that has to be tightened. The originals had a snap-lock fitting. The soldering was because the wires supplied from R.S. on the LED's are too short . I cut the original wires at the base of the old fixture and solder spliced with heat shrink insulation to the new wires. didn't have to undo the original terminals that way.
Click to expand
Claude-
Are the terminations on the original incandescent light bulbs from Hunter spade connections or similar plug and play? ...trying to avoid having to solder and insulate. If crimp spade connections are an option, in my eyes, superior, or at least, simpler.
 
kloudie1

kloudie1

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Nov 6, 2006
10,066
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Re: 1984 H34 Electrical Panel Replacement Indicator Light Bu

Has been a few years, DQB.. but I think they were crimped on connectors under the power screw on the breaker, and on the ground buss. You could use some good quality butt connectors (Anchor) instead of solder to join the old and new wire..Not a whole lot of room to work in .. The problem was that once the light fixture was installed in the panel and tightened down, the supplied wires on the new fixture were too short to reach both terminals.
 
Dan Johnson

Dan Johnson

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Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
dbq...

If my memory serves, the indicator lamp wires have spade lug connectors on their ends that are attached on the switched side of the breaker and on the negative buss. I now need to replace some of the lamps that have now burnt out and will probably use the Radio Shack solution Claude refers to.

Where connected new wiring to the breakers, I used the appropriate sized crimp-on connector instead of soldering one on a wire end.

Because of my wife's declining eyesight, I also replaced all my 12 volt cabin overhead lighting with wood and brass halogen units (would now use LED ones). For each connection I used a plug and socket crimp-on, and porarized them so that the female was always the "hot" side feeding the fixture.

I adapted a 120 volt halogen picture frame spot to shine down onto the sink area. I also replaced the fluorescent units with halogen under-cabinet units with the transformers removed and hooked to the 12 volt circuit where located.
 
dqb24

dqb24

.
Nov 4, 2011
49
Quintessence Hunter 34 Annapolis, MD
Re: dbq...

Thx for the info Dan. Good lighting upgrade ideas -I'd love to see any pics of any of your cabin lighting changes if you have.
 
dqb24

dqb24

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Nov 4, 2011
49
Quintessence Hunter 34 Annapolis, MD
Found the LEDs at Radio shack - good stuff thx.

Pic of LED and specs attached for the 5MM RED for anyone that wants to know.

BTW, length of wire leads length below the plastic holder....3"

One more question....the yellow LEDs on the AC Shore power side...powered by 12v DC or 110V AC....??? Seems the LEDs at RS are all 12V and would fail on a 110V AC circuit...Dan or Claude, can you confirm this?

Thanks gents,
Dave
 

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Dan Johnson

Dan Johnson

.
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
dbq...

Will take pix of the lighting fixtures on my next boat check visit. Didn't have anything in the file...
 
dqb24

dqb24

.
Nov 4, 2011
49
Quintessence Hunter 34 Annapolis, MD
In the event it helps someone else out...

OF course with ALL POWER DISCONNECTED AND OFF to the boat...
And of course (dislaimer) I am not responsible if you do something stupid...

I had a chance to start this changeover yesterday - only had time to do the DC main (LED) and the AC main (NEON) ...took only 5-10 mins per and these were my first 2 - the rest should go more quickly...

I cut the leads on the existing bad incandescent indicator assembly an inch from the fixture, stripped the ends of wires remaining connected to the switch and bus bar, and after inserting the new fixture through the face of the panel and tightening down the nut on the new LED (DC) or Neon (AC) fixture, connected the appropriate wires together with an 18-22 gauge crimp butt connector. Easy and quick, and allowed me to leave the existing spade connections in place.

Pic attached to show the spagetti mess before...AC main indicator assembly is just below the round QC sticker - you can mostly make out the 18 gauge black wires connected to the switch obn one side and the bus bar on the other.

Hope this helps.

That said, once I finish this job, I will have left over, approx 15 red DC, and 5 yellow AC, working incandescent indicator bulb assemblies. If you have burnt out bulbs like I did, and cannot find replacements as I could not, I may be able to help you out. PM me if you are interested.

Dave

Dan Johnson said:
If my memory serves, the indicator lamp wires have spade lug connectors on their ends that are attached on the switched side of the breaker and on the negative buss. I now need to replace some of the lamps that have now burnt out and will probably use the Radio Shack solution Claude refers to.

Where connected new wiring to the breakers, I used the appropriate sized crimp-on connector instead of soldering one on a wire end.

Because of my wife's declining eyesight, I also replaced all my 12 volt cabin overhead lighting with wood and brass halogen units (would now use LED ones). For each connection I used a plug and socket crimp-on, and porarized them so that the female was always the "hot" side feeding the fixture.

I adapted a 120 volt halogen picture frame spot to shine down onto the sink area. I also replaced the fluorescent units with halogen under-cabinet units with the transformers removed and hooked to the 12 volt circuit where located.
Click to expand
 

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Dan Johnson

Dan Johnson

.
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
dbq...

welcome to the world of Hunter factory wiring protocols. Wiring layout came from either a picture of a bowl of spagetti or a rodent nesting shot in Nat Geo Mag... :dance:
 
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