Hi: We're looking at an '83 O Day 25 swing keel boat. Its about the right type and size for our 2 person weekender plans. Any tips on what to look out for during a prepurchase inspection? Specific questions: 1. The (9.9 yamaha 4 stroke) aux mount seems to be flexing on the transom. It is mounted on a smallish fairing block with a Gerlick (?) lift thingie just to the left of the rudder. While I would remount it on a larger fairing block if we buy this boat, I'm worried about transom integrity. Is this a trouble spot? 2. Any thing to look out for on the swing keel proper/ 3. Rudder delamination a potential issue? 4. The cabin top adjacent to the fore hatch has been drilled and (epoxy?) injected. Assume soft deck coring; seems OK now, if unsightly. Is this a typical problem? 5. Blister or hull proble,ms to look for on haul out? 6. Rigging issues to look for? Many thanks for your help! john (johng@pinelink.org)
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A Plan
Looks like you have a handle on the big issues. The mounting block is probably the original and the correct size. If the engine is a four stroke, make sure the mounting bracket is specifically rated to handle a four stroke. Fours generate more torque than a two stroke and require a more robust mount. For the flexing you are seeing, check the interior wall of the transom for any obvious infiltration of water. Since the transom is usually not a cored area, delamination shouldn't be a problem. It may just need a bigger backing plate to handle the additional weight and torque of the fourstroke engine. For the deck, delamination is a common problem for any boat, especially one built as long ago as yours. The fact that it has been addressed is a good sign that the owner cares about his boat and maintenance. Bring a rubber headed mallet and give the deck some mild thumps. Hollow sounds and/or a squishy feel would indicate that the delamination has spread or wasn't completely fixed. Even if there is some delamination, it doesn't have to be a deal killer; unless it is widespread, minor areas of delam won't affect the seaworthiness of the boat for daysailing in protected waters. For the swing keel, make sure the board can be completely retracted and extended without jamming. Board jams are common. Sometimes its due to barnacles or other debris in the centerboard trunk, sometimes because the board has absorbed water and is now too fat to fit in the trunk, etc. Ask how old the pennant line is and when it and the shackle that attaches to the centerboard was last replaced. If possible, haul the boat and check the board for obvious problems. I haven't heard of rudder delamination being a particular problem, but it is always a possibility. A related issue is the condition of the rudder hardware. Oday used undersized pintles and gudgeons to attach the rudder to the transom. Check to see if they have been upgraded. If not, be careful of the condition of the existing hardware and consider upgrading. I also haven't heard of blisters being of particular concern on the Oday trailer sailer line. If you do find a significant blister problem, it will probably not be worth fixing as that can be a very expensive job. You would most likely be better off with a different boat. The rigging on these boats is simple and easy to inspect. Be particularly careful looking at the mainsheet attachment point on the backstay. It is the highest stress point on the rig and should be rust and corrosion free. You didn't specify, but I assume you will be doing this inspection yourself. I urge you to consider hiring a marine surveyor to do a pre-purchase inspection for you. Even though this is a simple boat, you will likely learn a great deal by following the inspector as he goes through his paces. I used one before buying my Oday 23, and his advice and insight were invaluable. Good luck.
Looks like you have a handle on the big issues. The mounting block is probably the original and the correct size. If the engine is a four stroke, make sure the mounting bracket is specifically rated to handle a four stroke. Fours generate more torque than a two stroke and require a more robust mount. For the flexing you are seeing, check the interior wall of the transom for any obvious infiltration of water. Since the transom is usually not a cored area, delamination shouldn't be a problem. It may just need a bigger backing plate to handle the additional weight and torque of the fourstroke engine. For the deck, delamination is a common problem for any boat, especially one built as long ago as yours. The fact that it has been addressed is a good sign that the owner cares about his boat and maintenance. Bring a rubber headed mallet and give the deck some mild thumps. Hollow sounds and/or a squishy feel would indicate that the delamination has spread or wasn't completely fixed. Even if there is some delamination, it doesn't have to be a deal killer; unless it is widespread, minor areas of delam won't affect the seaworthiness of the boat for daysailing in protected waters. For the swing keel, make sure the board can be completely retracted and extended without jamming. Board jams are common. Sometimes its due to barnacles or other debris in the centerboard trunk, sometimes because the board has absorbed water and is now too fat to fit in the trunk, etc. Ask how old the pennant line is and when it and the shackle that attaches to the centerboard was last replaced. If possible, haul the boat and check the board for obvious problems. I haven't heard of rudder delamination being a particular problem, but it is always a possibility. A related issue is the condition of the rudder hardware. Oday used undersized pintles and gudgeons to attach the rudder to the transom. Check to see if they have been upgraded. If not, be careful of the condition of the existing hardware and consider upgrading. I also haven't heard of blisters being of particular concern on the Oday trailer sailer line. If you do find a significant blister problem, it will probably not be worth fixing as that can be a very expensive job. You would most likely be better off with a different boat. The rigging on these boats is simple and easy to inspect. Be particularly careful looking at the mainsheet attachment point on the backstay. It is the highest stress point on the rig and should be rust and corrosion free. You didn't specify, but I assume you will be doing this inspection yourself. I urge you to consider hiring a marine surveyor to do a pre-purchase inspection for you. Even though this is a simple boat, you will likely learn a great deal by following the inspector as he goes through his paces. I used one before buying my Oday 23, and his advice and insight were invaluable. Good luck.
did it
Water in the transom can come from a leak at the cockpit scupper. That would soften the transome. Get the boat in the air, drop the centerboard and pull on it. There should be some movement, but none at the pins that hold it in. The rudders do delaminate, but can be fixed or replaced. If the deck is fixed and not spongy, don't worry. You may want to reset the deck hardware to stop leaks. The bottom will blister. Strip some bottom paint and look. Rigging problems will be obvious upon close inspection of the wire and fittings. Been there, done that, hope this helps. I own a 1975 25'. Ric
Water in the transom can come from a leak at the cockpit scupper. That would soften the transome. Get the boat in the air, drop the centerboard and pull on it. There should be some movement, but none at the pins that hold it in. The rudders do delaminate, but can be fixed or replaced. If the deck is fixed and not spongy, don't worry. You may want to reset the deck hardware to stop leaks. The bottom will blister. Strip some bottom paint and look. Rigging problems will be obvious upon close inspection of the wire and fittings. Been there, done that, hope this helps. I own a 1975 25'. Ric
Thanks! (Great Forum) Documents?
Just a quick note to thank Ric and Branford for the wonderful advice. Most appreciated. I am taking a surveyor to inspect the boat. We will have it hauled after topside look over and test sail. I'm returning to sailing after many years. Is there a manual available for the ODay 25? Any other good reading matter? Eg, how do I get at the inside of the transom to inspect and install a larger backing board? Cheers, john
Just a quick note to thank Ric and Branford for the wonderful advice. Most appreciated. I am taking a surveyor to inspect the boat. We will have it hauled after topside look over and test sail. I'm returning to sailing after many years. Is there a manual available for the ODay 25? Any other good reading matter? Eg, how do I get at the inside of the transom to inspect and install a larger backing board? Cheers, john
Inspect Bulkhead
Inspect chainplates (the small chrome plate that the wire sdestays attach to on top of the deck)for leaks. The leaks would be most visable on the interior teal bulkheads that these chainpaltes are attached to. The chainplates notoriously leak and shouls have been caulked every year. If not the bulkhead will rot, weakenining this critical chainplate connection. I recently bought a 1985 23 and the bulkheads were completely rotted. We replaced with new teal ply (about $250 a sheet) and did the installation ourselves. Also if its original wire rigging you should probably replace it. Our cost was about $600 for all the stainless wire rigging and associated turnbuckles... Otherwise Oday 23's are terific boats ...
Inspect chainplates (the small chrome plate that the wire sdestays attach to on top of the deck)for leaks. The leaks would be most visable on the interior teal bulkheads that these chainpaltes are attached to. The chainplates notoriously leak and shouls have been caulked every year. If not the bulkhead will rot, weakenining this critical chainplate connection. I recently bought a 1985 23 and the bulkheads were completely rotted. We replaced with new teal ply (about $250 a sheet) and did the installation ourselves. Also if its original wire rigging you should probably replace it. Our cost was about $600 for all the stainless wire rigging and associated turnbuckles... Otherwise Oday 23's are terific boats ...
Manual? We don't print no stinkin' manual...
Oday was not big on printing a real owner's manual. The Oday 23 "manual" is actually available on this site, I think in the Resources tab, then choose manuals and documentation. As you will see, the manual consists of a double-sided sheet of paper. The 25 is basically an extended version of the 23, so I doubt that Oday printed anything more elaborate for the 25, but who knows? Access to the transom? One of the cockpit seats (usually the port side, but it depends on the year) opens and gives access to the entire bilge area of the boat. Most of the time your motor bracket is on the same side as the opening seat, providing easy access to the area for possibly augmenting the backing plate. If you have to get to the inside of the transom on the other side of the boat, its possible, but not easy. Take some yoga classes and practice your colorful vocabulary. You're gonna need both.
Oday was not big on printing a real owner's manual. The Oday 23 "manual" is actually available on this site, I think in the Resources tab, then choose manuals and documentation. As you will see, the manual consists of a double-sided sheet of paper. The 25 is basically an extended version of the 23, so I doubt that Oday printed anything more elaborate for the 25, but who knows? Access to the transom? One of the cockpit seats (usually the port side, but it depends on the year) opens and gives access to the entire bilge area of the boat. Most of the time your motor bracket is on the same side as the opening seat, providing easy access to the area for possibly augmenting the backing plate. If you have to get to the inside of the transom on the other side of the boat, its possible, but not easy. Take some yoga classes and practice your colorful vocabulary. You're gonna need both.
transom repair
As Mike said, take a Yoga class and practice colorful language. I replaced the wood backing on the transom on a 75 Oday 25. It wasn't really rotten but was wet and getting soft. The transom has a few points of entry for water; rudder hardware, motor mount, cockpit drain, possibly a gas line entry. The job is difficult but not impossible for a decent do-it-yourselfer. It is more difficult to remove the existing wood than to put in the new wood as it is epoxied and fiberglassed into place. Access to the transom is through the cockpit locker. BTW, It's a great boat, I just spent my first summer on mine. Tom
As Mike said, take a Yoga class and practice colorful language. I replaced the wood backing on the transom on a 75 Oday 25. It wasn't really rotten but was wet and getting soft. The transom has a few points of entry for water; rudder hardware, motor mount, cockpit drain, possibly a gas line entry. The job is difficult but not impossible for a decent do-it-yourselfer. It is more difficult to remove the existing wood than to put in the new wood as it is epoxied and fiberglassed into place. Access to the transom is through the cockpit locker. BTW, It's a great boat, I just spent my first summer on mine. Tom
Transoms!
Yes! The transoms do get water in them and rot! I've seen more than one that needed relacing.
Yes! The transoms do get water in them and rot! I've seen more than one that needed relacing.
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