My Hunter 30 Bilge pumps to the icebox which then drains back only to repeat the process. Assume something plugged somewhere, but don't understand why it goes back to the ice chest.
1983 Hunter 30 Bilge Pump
- Thread starter mjballard
- Start date
Below is a plumbing diagram of your Hunter 30 from the attached manual with a dedicated discharge hose from the bilge pump to a port thru hull (assuming a 1974 - 1983 model, if not download the manual from this site to confirm). Suggest tracing the pump discharge line-up and re-plumbing, if required. Hope that helps.
Icebox(#7) drains to the bilge. Water is picked up by bilge pump (#9) and
goes overboard to the triangle shaped, plastic thru hull symbol on
the port side, in the head via a dedicated hose.
There is no reason for there to be a hard connection between the icebox / drain hose and the bilge pump. Somebody got their hoses crossed!
goes overboard to the triangle shaped, plastic thru hull symbol on
the port side, in the head via a dedicated hose.
There is no reason for there to be a hard connection between the icebox / drain hose and the bilge pump. Somebody got their hoses crossed!
It is normal for the cooler drain to freely discharge into the bilge. Follow the discharge hose from the bilge pump, it should lead to a discharge port thru hull. Make sure that line is not plugged.
The ice box drains into the bilge because the boat was designed with a "wet bilge" due to the stuffing box needing to drip when the prop shaft turns. It's old school, but I haven't changed this set up on my boat for fear of loosing a drip-less seal/bellows at sea and flooding the boat.
But, the OP's post made me think about the boat's original setup having a fairly long run from the bilge pump to the discharge fitting on the hull. When new, the bilge pump would run until the float switch disengaged, but a good bit of water would still be in the hose and that would drain back into the bilge. I solved that with a check valve just past the pump fitting. I know many of you don't like that solution, but it has worked for me for 35 years.
Pumping salt/brackish water INTO the icebox from the bilge... worse!
But, the OP's post made me think about the boat's original setup having a fairly long run from the bilge pump to the discharge fitting on the hull. When new, the bilge pump would run until the float switch disengaged, but a good bit of water would still be in the hose and that would drain back into the bilge. I solved that with a check valve just past the pump fitting. I know many of you don't like that solution, but it has worked for me for 35 years.
Pumping salt/brackish water INTO the icebox from the bilge... worse!
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Thanks, I traced it out and yes the pipes got crossed likely one came off and the wrong one connected and system not used. I just became the owner so learning. Thinking about replacing the original tube as I understand it runs right behind the electrical panel, not a good idea, but don't like the idea of drilling another hole in the hull, even above the waterline. At a minimum will replace entire hose, but access always an issue. Thoughts?
Whoa!!!
There is no way the bilge hose nor the ice box drain hose was routed near the electrical panel. As you see in the diagram above, the bilge exhaust hose runs through the bilge, into the head area, then inside the cabinet under the sink, then up to the outlet fitting on the hull.
The hoses in the electrical compartment (Dumb place for these, IMO) are: (1) The fresh water feed line from the water tank to the pressure pump, then on to the galley sink with a "T" junction to the water heater and (2) a hot water line from the water heater forward to the head sink.
Print several copies of the diagram and take them with you to the boat along with colored markers. Remove all the locker covers and drawers and open all the cabinet doors.
Empty all the cabinets/lockers. Turn on the water heater (if installed and working). Turn on the pressure pump. Open the taps one at a time. Trace each hose with your eyes, hands, ears, a flashlight, a hand mirror, a small child. Color code the diagram with what you can verify in one color for cold and a different color for the warm lines.
You'll feel the water pulse through an active line. When you've identified all the lines,
go to the bar and receive your "Fresh Water Plumbing 101" course certificate.
When you've got all the faucets and drains flowing properly you will have earned your "Master's in Fresh Water Systems". Good Hunting!
There is no way the bilge hose nor the ice box drain hose was routed near the electrical panel. As you see in the diagram above, the bilge exhaust hose runs through the bilge, into the head area, then inside the cabinet under the sink, then up to the outlet fitting on the hull.
The hoses in the electrical compartment (Dumb place for these, IMO) are: (1) The fresh water feed line from the water tank to the pressure pump, then on to the galley sink with a "T" junction to the water heater and (2) a hot water line from the water heater forward to the head sink.
Print several copies of the diagram and take them with you to the boat along with colored markers. Remove all the locker covers and drawers and open all the cabinet doors.
Empty all the cabinets/lockers. Turn on the water heater (if installed and working). Turn on the pressure pump. Open the taps one at a time. Trace each hose with your eyes, hands, ears, a flashlight, a hand mirror, a small child. Color code the diagram with what you can verify in one color for cold and a different color for the warm lines.
You'll feel the water pulse through an active line. When you've identified all the lines,
go to the bar and receive your "Fresh Water Plumbing 101" course certificate.
When you've got all the faucets and drains flowing properly you will have earned your "Master's in Fresh Water Systems". Good Hunting!
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Thanks for the input, the diagram suggests something different then where the outlet port physically is. The other owner of the same vintage boat said he physically relocated it for the same concern, I bring up. Will verify and go forward. Thanks for the feedback.
Yes Bilge pump discharge is definitely behind electrical panel, reconnected to correct location and still works, will have to watch, it seems it would be easier, more accessible, if it was simple piped to the starboard side by the manual discharge. Thanks all,