1981 Hunter 25 Total Refit and Go.

[Edandcassie]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/111039125633053/812237468846545/?notif_t=group_comment


you can find a video of the soft spots here. I couldnt upload it on this site.

 

[Tim M]

I agree with JCjr in that some soft spots in these old boats' glass-work is almost inevitable - and very repairable. From looking at your video (although it's a little hard to tell if its delamination or 'oil-canning') it looks as though the trailer rollers have perhaps been a contributing factor to the problem as well. It depends on how often you launch and whether launch and retrieval usually happen in water depth that causes the weight of a loaded boat to be supported only by a couple of the rollers as it slides off and on or is the boat floated onto the trailer - a case in which especially for over-winter storage a bunk style trailer is less stress on the hull. That being said however, stiffening and strengthening of the hull can easily be done. On the inside first - especially since it's mostly already stripped out - and then delamination or blisters can be ground out and repaired from the outside. A few glassed-in stringers (foam core under a glass build-up) if needed and some build-up under the floor will make it stronger than new and it doesn't have to look perfect (the inside will be under the floor w/ carpet and the outside is - usually - underwater). Not as much work as it sounds, a few hundred bucks in glass, epoxy, foam and filler and it'll outlast you and you'll know what was done and have piece of mind. Another old similar boat will have another set or the same problems. If this is the boat that works for you, do the work - you won't regret it. You can still be ready for sailing by summer.
Tim M.

 

[Edandcassie]

Some progress. Epoxy puddy. 4200 for the portlights.

 

[Edandcassie]

Before

 

[DianaOfBurlington]

Before

Got clamps? :dance:

 

[Canyonkeeper]

So the plan to build my own Wiley port-lights feel flat. The plexiglass was too thin and the cost was too high to justify the work. I found some cheap no name portlights from Five Oceans and got six for $217. I still need to find a solution for the two bigger portholes that are aft. And I have to trim the sides of the smaller ports to make these new ones fit.

These look perfect. How are they in person? I would love to change my port-lights but the cost is ridiculous.

 

[stollo770]

Holy crap those port lights are amazingly cheap. The cheapest replacement ports that I have been looking at are sold by Gray Enterprises for $125 a piece. Your solution can get me the four ports I need for $120 for all of them. What a deal! So I have some questions for you:

1. Are they made well? How's the quality?
2. How are they to install, easy, hard?
3. Did you have to widen the holes in your fiberglass to get them to fit, and if you did was it easy to do so?
4. What bonding agent did you use to seal them? I have heard that one should avoid 5200 for some reason, even though its the Swiss Army Knife of marine adhesives.
5. How do the ports perform themselves, do they stay open by themselves or do they hang loosely and fall back down when not supported?

Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it.

 

[Edandcassie]

Holy crap those port lights are amazingly cheap. The cheapest replacement ports that I have been looking at are sold by Gray Enterprises for $125 a piece. Your solution can get me the four ports I need for $120 for all of them. What a deal! So I have some questions for you:

1. Are they made well? How's the quality?
2. How are they to install, easy, hard?
3. Did you have to widen the holes in your fiberglass to get them to fit, and if you did was it easy to do so?
4. What bonding agent did you use to seal them? I have heard that one should avoid 5200 for some reason, even though its the Swiss Army Knife of marine adhesives.
5. How do the ports perform themselves, do they stay open by themselves or do they hang loosely and fall back down when not supported?

Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it.

1. Yes. They seem to be made very well.
2. Fairly easy. I had to cut the sides of the opening about a half inch on each side. The drain is in the middle so I also had to cut that out. No biggie
3. I cut the sides out with a jigsaw with fiberglass blade.
4. I used 4200. They say that if you use 5200 you'll never be able to get them out. Just in case.
5. Right now they stay open but I believe after time they may get looser.
All and all I'm very happy with them. Dog downs work great and fat gaskets provide plenty of protection.

 

[stollo770]

Thank you so much for the information. Im going to buy those ports when they are in stock again. You just saved me $380 and I cannot be more grateful.

One last question, how was cutting through the fiberglass on your boat with your jig saw? Did you get any spider cracks in your gelcoat? I'd be happy to use my jig with a fiber glass blade but I'm worried the force of the blade will cause spider cracking which will result in a lengthy repair process. I'd like to avoid that if possible.

 

[Edandcassie]

No. It cut through pretty smooth. Some chipping at the point of contact but that gets coved up by the wide screw flange.

 

[Edandcassie]

Email them directly ; sales@seafreshmarine.com. If your buying six or more you get the wholesale price.

 

[stollo770]

Hey great thanks for the info! I'll get six and then keep two as back-ups in case one of the other portlights break in the future. Or I'll sell them. You won't believe how expensive similar port lights are.

 

[Edandcassie]

Making some progress. I will post pics soon. I need to know what size slugs I new for my mainsail. 1981 hunter 25. Or where I might find the specs for this? Thanks.