1981 Hunter 25 Total Refit and Go.

Dec 14, 2014
13
Hunter 25 Blood river kentucky lake
Hello everyone. I'll be doing a complete refit on a 1981 Hunter 25. As of right now she sits as I bought her completely striped on the inside. The bulkheads have been left in tact but will need to be replaced. The portlights have been removed and will have to be replaced as well and I plan to build these myself. There is a hole in the hull for a through the hull transponder which will need to be dealt with. So lots of fun to be had and questions to ask. We live and sail in northwest Tennessee near pairs landing at Kentucky Lake. We have been sailing our first boat a Venture 22 and bought this beauty of a 25 to have more space and expand our sailing experience. With our new Hunter we look forward to a real head which I plan to install aft starboard and an expanded sleeping area in the v berth. I'm excited to get started and look forward to talking to all you Hunter Owners willing to help us along the way. Thanks. :)
 

Attachments

pateco

.
Aug 12, 2014
2,207
Hunter 31 (1983) Pompano Beach FL
Looks like a lot of fun is on the way. Keep posting pictures of your progress.
Check out my restoration project at the link below.
 
Dec 29, 2013
9
Hunter 30 Lake Lanier, GA
Let me know if you run into any Portlight issues. I've replaced all of them on my 1982 Hunter 30. Here is a YouTube of my project last year with the some help from a few Old Salts.
http://youtu.be/aRWII4kmDuU
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Enjoy the project. It will be aggravating at times but very satisfying. I am glad I am way past your stag though:) Brings back memories....good and bad.
 
Dec 14, 2014
13
Hunter 25 Blood river kentucky lake
Wow. You guys are a wealth of knowledge. I'm learning a lot just reading and watching y'all. So how do y'all feel about through-hull holes? I have one that's looks like it had a transponder in it at some point. I can't understand why someone would put a hole in a boat but in any event I'm left wondering if I should put in a new transponder or fill the hole with epoxy and fiberglass. What are your thoughts on through-hulls? Thanks.
 

Attachments

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
I have to patch one of those myself. It looks like the hole that's in mine from an old paddle wheel transponder thru hull. I took mine out. I am just going to use my gps for speed plus I didn't like the idea of a tiny cross-sectional o-ring doing all the sealing. I plan on patching with West System and layering biaxial woven mat. Many posts here on that subject.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
Through-hull holes

I have a special *patented* (not really) system for eliminating (filling in) these holes. Easy, no-brainer and, done right, entirely adequate.

First, realize that most people do these backwards. For some reason they will patch the inside first and then go outside to fill it from there. Why do work upside down?

Using my method, you first (after sanding and cleaning with acetone the whole area) stick a patch of duct tape (yes, honestly, duct tape) over the hole on the outside of the hull. Make sure it sticks well. Then go inside and snip out 'cookies' of mat, bidrectional and/or Fabmat. Really anything will do. Only woven roving (Fabmat without the mat part) should be avoided as it does not absorb resin well. Make their outside diameter to match the inside diameter of the hole. Make as many as will fill the hole to the thickness of the hull, when dry, then make about 4 or 5 more.

Also cut out the patches for the inside too: given a 1-1/2" through-hull hole (holding tank exit, tranducers), make one about 6"-7" in diameter and two or three more in progressively smaller sizes. These should be in bidirectional or else just mat. Avoid cloth as, believe it or not, it's not that strong for puncture stresses.

Tape off the unaffected/sensitive areas, etc.

When you wet out these cookies and lay them into the hole, keep daubing with the brush till you have good ooze all around the cookies. You will push against the duct tape. This is desirable (just not hard enough to make it fall off). Take the roller to it only when you've got the last one or two cookies bulging up a little. Then lay up the biggest patch first, centered over the hole, and then the next smallest and so on. Doing patches from smallest to largest results in air gaps around the perimeter of the smaller ones. You don't want that.

With the roller, press the patches down till the biggest one is adhering well to the inside of the hull-- no air voids around the topmost cookie in the hole. If you haven't put enough resin or cookies in the hole, now-- and only now-- is the time to peel up the patches, add more resin and redo the patches. Air pockets in hull patches usually mean weakness in a place where you don't want weakness. Don't make yourself regret having cheated here. In my (42 years) experience, the best advice is: DO NOT SPARE THE RESIN. (I so often have to remind boatbuilders: it doesn't say 'Cherubini Yachts and Resin-Conservation Company' on the building. Nor does it say 'Cherubini Yachts and Sandpaper-Preservation Society'; but I digress.)

When the patch kicks off, go outside and peel off the duct tape. You should/will see a bulge where the cookies were pressed a little through the hole. Sand/grind this down to be fair with the hull. If you filled well, with enough resin, you should see an even little greenish-gray line around the perimeter of the patches; this is the resin filling the round seam there. If you see little voids in it, you can patch them with vinylester-based, waterproof structural putty, using a knife, and sand them fair. If you see big voids in it, you did something wrong (see note about resin conservation, above).

To finish this off, the best way is to now sand out a little dish, about the size of a medium-sized pancake, tapering to nothing at the ends (as though you're to lay up a teacup saucer, only not quite as deeply into the hull). When this is clean, make some patches like for the inside and lay them up over the outside of the hole. You can use a dead-man, like a broom handle, and a circle cut of Starboard or wrapped with sheet plastic to prop this patch against the hull to ensure good adhesion. But most of us with Hunters don't have hulls that thick; and I haven't had any problems with just sanding off the cookies on the outside and fairing it over. I did all mine in this way.

I included three pics:

The one from outside is of the filled patch, with no gelcoat or barrier coat showing, not yet faired-over smooth. These two are the inlet and outlet from my boat's original toilet system.

The second one is of some cookies I cut out to fill miscellaneous holes in the cockpit. They don't have to be exact. They're just getting stuffed into place. Again, don't spare the resin.

The third one is of a hole in the cockpit pan which has received duct tape and will be filled with the cookies in the other picture.

Stuff in the blog may be helpful; browse around or just ask me. :dance:




 

Attachments

Last edited:

braol

.
Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
I have to patch one of those myself. It looks like the hole that's in mine from an old paddle wheel transponder thru hull. I took mine out. I am just going to use my gps for speed ....
I might think twice before eliminating the speed transducer. The GPS can't tell you your speed through the water, only your speed over the ground (or over a map). To get a real solid idea of how your boat is performing the speed through the water is required.
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
I might think twice before eliminating the speed transducer. The GPS can't tell you your speed through the water, only your speed over the ground (or over a map). To get a real solid idea of how your boat is performing the speed through the water is required.
Too late....it's been in the landfill for quite awhile. I am not in a hurry anyway so the gps is more than I need. As long as I am moving I'll be happy. :) Anyway, the electronics that hooked to the old transducer was toast.
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
I agree with Braol about the speed transducer. Given the choice between the two (and the presence of a reliable analog depth finder) I will take the speedo over the GPS every day.
 
Oct 4, 2013
18
Hunter 25 Eagle Mountain Lake, Fort Worth, TX



PLEASE tell me, Mike, that when you fitted the replacement portlights you made sure to fill that gap between the hull skin and the inner liner skin! :naughty:
I actually haven't replaced any of that. Surprisingly, only one of them has any leaking and it's VERY minor. Not even enough to worry about trying to replace yet.

Mike
 
Dec 14, 2014
13
Hunter 25 Blood river kentucky lake
So the plan to build my own Wiley port-lights feel flat. The plexiglass was too thin and the cost was too high to justify the work. I found some cheap no name portlights from Five Oceans and got six for $217. I still need to find a solution for the two bigger portholes that are aft. And I have to trim the sides of the smaller ports to make these new ones fit.
 

Attachments

Alctel

.
Dec 13, 2013
264
Hunter 36 Victoria
I have a special *patented* (not really) system for eliminating (filling in) these holes. Easy, no-brainer and, done right, entirely adequate.

First, realize that most people do these backwards. For some reason they will patch the inside first and then go outside to fill it from there. Why do work upside down?

Using my method, you first (after sanding and cleaning with acetone the whole area) stick a patch of duct tape (yes, honestly, duct tape) over the hole on the outside of the hull. Make sure it sticks well. Then go inside and snip out 'cookies' of mat, bidrectional and/or Fabmat. Really anything will do. Only woven roving (Fabmat without the mat part) should be avoided as it does not absorb resin well. Make their outside diameter to match the inside diameter of the hole. Make as many as will fill the hole to the thickness of the hull, when dry, then make about 4 or 5 more.

Also cut out the patches for the inside too: given a 1-1/2" through-hull hole (holding tank exit, tranducers), make one about 6"-7" in diameter and two or three more in progressively smaller sizes. These should be in bidirectional or else just mat. Avoid cloth as, believe it or not, it's not that strong for puncture stresses.

Tape off the unaffected/sensitive areas, etc.

When you wet out these cookies and lay them into the hole, keep daubing with the brush till you have good ooze all around the cookies. You will push against the duct tape. This is desirable (just not hard enough to make it fall off). Take the roller to it only when you've got the last one or two cookies bulging up a little. Then lay up the biggest patch first, centered over the hole, and then the next smallest and so on. Doing patches from smallest to largest results in air gaps around the perimeter of the smaller ones. You don't want that.

With the roller, press the patches down till the biggest one is adhering well to the inside of the hull-- no air voids around the topmost cookie in the hole. If you haven't put enough resin or cookies in the hole, now-- and only now-- is the time to peel up the patches, add more resin and redo the patches. Air pockets in hull patches usually mean weakness in a place where you don't want weakness. Don't make yourself regret having cheated here. In my (42 years) experience, the best advice is: DO NOT SPARE THE RESIN. (I so often have to remind boatbuilders: it doesn't say 'Cherubini Yachts and Resin-Conservation Company' on the building. Nor does it say 'Cherubini Yachts and Sandpaper-Preservation Society'; but I digress.)

When the patch kicks off, go outside and peel off the duct tape. You should/will see a bulge where the cookies were pressed a little through the hole. Sand/grind this down to be fair with the hull. If you filled well, with enough resin, you should see an even little greenish-gray line around the perimeter of the patches; this is the resin filling the round seam there. If you see little voids in it, you can patch them with vinylester-based, waterproof structural putty, using a knife, and sand them fair. If you see big voids in it, you did something wrong (see note about resin conservation, above).

To finish this off, the best way is to now sand out a little dish, about the size of a medium-sized pancake, tapering to nothing at the ends (as though you're to lay up a teacup saucer, only not quite as deeply into the hull). When this is clean, make some patches like for the inside and lay them up over the outside of the hole. You can use a dead-man, like a broom handle, and a circle cut of Starboard or wrapped with sheet plastic to prop this patch against the hull to ensure good adhesion. But most of us with Hunters don't have hulls that thick; and I haven't had any problems with just sanding off the cookies on the outside and fairing it over. I did all mine in this way.

I included three pics:

The one from outside is of the filled patch, with no gelcoat or barrier coat showing, not yet faired-over smooth. These two are the inlet and outlet from my boat's original toilet system.

The second one is of some cookies I cut out to fill miscellaneous holes in the cockpit. They don't have to be exact. They're just getting stuffed into place. Again, don't spare the resin.

The third one is of a hole in the cockpit pan which has received duct tape and will be filled with the cookies in the other picture.

Stuff in the blog may be helpful; browse around or just ask me. :dance:




This was a great and helpful post, thank you. I'm going to be removing the two head through hulls soon on my next haulout.
 
Dec 14, 2014
13
Hunter 25 Blood river kentucky lake
Depressed. Had a warmer day. Out checking the boats hull and finding soft spots below the water line. :(
 
Jun 5, 2010
1,123
Hunter 25 Burlington NJ
...finding soft spots below the water line. :(
All our old boats have these. How big are they; how wet are they; and what does the gelcoat look like on the outside. Find out, before you start worrying about it.

Also-- is your bilge gelcoated in these areas or just painted? What is the condition of the paint/coating?
 
Dec 14, 2014
13
Hunter 25 Blood river kentucky lake


All our old boats have these. How big are they; how wet are they; and what does the gelcoat look like on the outside. Find out, before you start worrying about it.

Also-- is your bilge gelcoated in these areas or just painted? What is the condition of the paint/coating?

Yes the bilge is gelcoated and seems to be in good condition. Most of the hull is hard as a rock including the deck. The boat has been on her trailer for a year or two and all seems dry. One soft spot i noticed because of a 2-3 inch crack in the gelcoat. when i pushed on it, it flexed a dimple about 5-6 inches in diameter. the other soft spots that make up really one soft spot are the same way but with no crack. all spots are right at the painted water line on the port side near center. Inside under the forward most access panel on the port berth the flex can be viewed and it appears the tab from the berth bulkhead has detached from the hull, about a quarter inch. maybe even some detachment from the support log thats glassed in just above the berths.