1981 C30 Engine Removal

[just lucky]

thanks Spindrift, and i apologize for piggybacking a question onto yours Blue Hull.
but while were on topic i have one more. what happens to the prop shaft alignment after raising the engine a half an inch?
my initial problem was that the original alternator bracket let go, pierced my oil filter and spit every drop the pump could suck into my bilge. the cleaning of which led me to discover that all but one of my motor mount to hull lags were removable without tools!

 

[Spindrift NH]

Just lucky,
My mounting lugs were the same way. I noticed at the end of the season that my motor was sliding around. I attached a picture of one of the old mounts, you can see that the fiberglass around the mount is grey from the movement. To answer your question about alignment, I got the idea on this site from Doug to use aluminum plate. I believe he used 3/8" plate. When I received my new mounts I compared the heights of the old mounts to the lowest adjustable height of the new mounts. I determined that I had enough room to add a 1/2" plate(I liked the idea of having a little more thread to hold the mounts in place) while still having some room for adjustment on the new mounts. Also, I "dry fit" the engine with the new mounts and plate to double check for adequate clearance. So, while the top of the engine stringers are 1/2" higher, the engine sits at the same height as it did previously.

 

[just lucky]

thanks for the info and pics.

 

[Pete_and_Pam]

Engine is back in & running...now to put the Galley back together...:dance:

 

[Guts1236]

Looks good nice job

 

[just lucky]

That is a nice a job. neat and tidy!

 

[jrowan]

Wow, that engine & compartment looks brand new!
This is a very inspiring thread for sailors that may not need to rebuild
their engines now, but we will all need to do someday. The pics of raising & challenges
of rebuilding the Universal Diesel engine is invaluable info. that everyone can use.
I know that I have saved a lot of these pics for future reference. Thanks to all.

 

[Pete_and_Pam]

Thank you for the compliments. The stringers were the scary part. The wood in the Starboard side was completely gone, and aft part of the Port side was "toast" as well. I cut holes in the top of the stringers, removed the rotten wood, and poured ARJAY 6011 in through the cutouts in the top of the stringers, let it cure, and then glassed over it. We drilled new holes for the mounts, dropped the engine back in the compartment and she aligned and snugged right up when we bolted it back in place.

 

[chrisings]

Thank you for the compliments. The stringers were the scary part. The wood in the Starboard side was completely gone, and aft part of the Port side was "toast" as well. I cut holes in the top of the stringers, removed the rotten wood, and poured ARJAY 6011 in through the cutouts in the top of the stringers, let it cure, and then glassed over it. We drilled new holes for the mounts, dropped the engine back in the compartment and she aligned and snugged right up when we bolted it back in place.

Where did you buy the ARJAY?

Thanks,

 

[Pete_and_Pam]

Chris,

Fiberglass Coatings Inc. Here's the link to their site.

http://fgci.com/

They are very helpful to the DIY crowd.

Pete

 

[Pete_and_Pam]

This link should take you right to the ARJAY 6011:

http://fgci.com/bp_viewproduct.aspx?itemnum=128617&oldItem=128617

 

[chrisings]

Chris,

Fiberglass Coatings Inc. Here's the link to their site.

http://fgci.com/

They are very helpful to the DIY crowd.

Pete

Thanks Pete!! Great resource, going in my "boat favorites" folder.

 

[nlneilson]

Very interesting how some have removed the engines. With the head and exhaust manifold off my gas A4 it should be easy to remove. with only 304 hours on the meter with no signs of wear in the cylinders when releasing a stuck valve that should last longer than I will own the boat. If an engine replacement was or is ever necessary the Kubutu or Perkins(bought by CAT) would be options to consider.

 

[Blue Hull]

I went with the original factory replacement mounts. $29 ea. The originals lasted 35 years so I figure these will last longer than I will keep the boat. I appreciate the all suggestions and input. I have the motor out, all the parts needed arrived and it's at the machine shop. I purchased a new flex coupling and new stainless prop shaft as my original bronze shaft was very worn at the packing seal. The flex coupling was fitted to the new shaft. I have a new Blackfish shaft bearing going into the strut. I will reuse the original shaft packing box. I'm not a fan of the dripless upgrades as they are not very servicable. I have heard that's no worry because they never fail. Yet, I know folks who have have had them develop considerable leaks in the middle of a cruise. It's old school for me on shaft packing seal.

 

[pencema]

I've pulled an old Yanmar YSE-12 twice using the boom with no problem. I hooked the main halyard to the aft end (didn't trust just the topping lift). I used two heavy rope loops and a ratchet hoist to lift the engine and "walk" it to the end of the boom, then used the boom like a crane to swing the block outboard and lower it to the ground.