1981 C&C Mk 1 Leaky Window Issue

[Curiousgeorge206]

Does anyone have a step by step procedure on how to fix leaky seals on both port and starboard side of the windows of the cabin of a 30' C&C? When we purchased the boat last August the previous owner had taped around the windows to prevent water from coming in. We had asked that he fix the windows, however, we took his word that the repairs would have been done properly. Unfortunately, over on the west coast, we get a lot of rain. Hence, we found the windows continued to leak.

On the older C&Cs, I've seen trim kits around the windows which finish them off nicely. At the present, our windows are plain looking, they are the tinted glass attached to the fibreglass of the window wall.

I would like to find some alternatives on repairs. I would love to do the work myself to save on coasts plus I enjoy doing the work.

Anyone repaired or added a trim kit to their windows?

I hope his all makes sense?

Thanks.

 

[Ted]

Most likely your leaking port lights were designed to attach directly to the fiberglass without a frame. The early C&C 30's (mark 1's) had aluminum window frames which used a gasket to make the seal. The later C&C 30 mark 1 and mark 2's did not. Use Dow 795 to make a permanent, water tight seal. There is lots of information about the procedure on this site and others, but most importantly, follow the manufacturer's directions about the setting/cure time and temperature. Also make use you place small spacers about 1/8" thick between the fiberglass and acrylic lens to prevent the Dow 795 from being squeezed out. You need a uniform thickness around the entire perimeter. If the sealant is too thin it will leak because it can't stretch enough as the boat flexes.

 

[centerline]

if you dont want to pull the windows right now, but want a permanent seal that could last for several years yet, or until the time is right to change them out, heres what to do....

exception... this wont work on framed windows that are leaking between the frame and the window.... but it will work if the leak is between the frame and the gelcoat, or if they are frameless windows

use a fine stainless steel brush (because it wont scratch the finish) and clean the area well around the outer edge of the frame. scrub the frame and the gelcoat a quarter inch each side of the gap.... wipe it all clean with acetone... carefully tape the gelcoat around the frame to leave 1/16 to 1/8 of gelcoat between tape line and the frame, all the way around....
then do the same with the tape on the frame....

once its all taped, use either 3M uv4000 or dow 795, and lay a small bead of sealant all the way around the frame... then use your finger to fair it out, and work it into the gap.

apply a bit more if you need to, but after making sure the gap is filled you want to fair it out just enough so that the caulking tapers out to the tape line on both sides....

then gently pull the tape... at this point it may be perfect, but if you have any tape lines showing where the caulking may have been a bit thick, wet your finger and run over it and it will smooth out and be blended perfectly. a professional job.

if you dont mask with tape, the caulking line cannot be controlled and the job will look like a beginner did it with wide wavy caulking lines, but it will still be sealed

I cannot recommend trying any other product for this purpose as I have used many different brands and types, and these 2 have always worked flawless for me in almost every application necessary on a boat, and especially sealing windows/portlights.