1980 Hunter 36 mast step

[NY1T]

Dear NY1T:

Sorry to be such a pain with questions about the mast step and compression post. But some maintenance/repair is in my future at some point. Your info has been great.

If you do unstep your mast, I will be interested to know what you see on the deck step fitting. In particular, how the mast electrical wires are routed through. After heavy rains, I have observed some wetness at the bottom of my decorative compression post teak where it rests on the the cabin floor. Most likely water is wicking along the wires and not making it to the bilge. It doesn't look possible to seal/caulk with the mast up. Over the long term, dry/wet rot to the wood compression post is a concern.

Also, how are the wires detached when the mast is removed because I can't see any opening on my mast to gain access to any uncoupling plug?

Many thanks.

rardi

Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. I didn't unstep the mast, yet. I will this winter. I replaced the peice under the floor with length (8 or 9 inches) of PT 4X4 cut to octagon shape to fit in the hole the original pipe was in. I cut two wedges to put on top of it to adjust the height.

Then I removed the post in the cabin. I had a railroad jack and used it to support the roof. I had the shrouds and stays loosened while doing both posts. The teak facade is screwed to a 5" post and the post is screwed to the bulkhead between the head and main cabin.

The foreward side of the post has a groove top to bottom that the wires run along. It was rotted on the top. I created a new post with a 4X4 with boards on three sides that brought it to 5 inches. Then one narrow board on the forward side to create the channel for the wires. The end result should allow the replacement of the teak to original. The post will have to account for the 3/4 inch bulkhead on one corner. I had to notch the top of the post to allow for the wires coming through the ceiling. The lights and antenna cable came through separate holes.

This raised the mast so I now had more adjustment on the turnbuckles, but not quite enough. I would like 1/4 to 1/2 inches more to get it to tension.

At this point I will unstep the mast and replace the suspected rot there and that should get the extra height I am after.

Not sure if I will do it or let the next person that buys the boat to do it. I am looking at a 41 foot Morgan OI ketch for a liveaboard cruiser. It would be easier to save the money and discount the boat. I am not proffecient with the fiberglass work.

Galen S/V NoSerfing

 

[rardiH36]

Dear NY1T:

Actually I had forgotten about your specific project.

So many thanks for coming back because just over the last few days I had been thinking about adding extra support around the steel tube that supports the mast compression between the cabin floor and the bilge surface.

I posted a pic before ... but here again. Because my tube is still good, I am not planning on removing it. Instead, with the mast up, I am thinking to loosen the shrouds and stays to "floppy", then place some hydraulic jacks down low to force the deck and the mast up just a bit. Add a little more pressure to the jacks for several days as the deck hopefully will gradually lift. With the new say 1/4"-1/2" extra vertical gap, then I'll wedge four short pieces of 1.5"x1.5" IPE wood around the existing tube. Finally use a large pipe clamp or something else to cinch the IPE tight against the tube so they don't ever work loose. Then no matter what happens to the steel tube, the mast compression force will still be supported in this area. I am keeping this section of the bilge totally dry. And IPE (also known as iron wood) is incredibly strong and is highly rot resistant. Should last as long as I own the boat anyway. I am reasonably sure that my wood compression post between the deck and the cabin floor hasn't rotted as yours. Also I think that the deck core underneath the deck stepped mast is also OK.

My concern with this project has been how much slack I can have in the shrouds/stays without concern that the mast might somehow get loose and topple. Your info suggest that this really isn't a deal breaker. Again thanks for the status report.

rardi