1980 Hunter 33 port side leak

[Tony Z]

We have a big time deck leak that I just can't seem to find the source of.

The end result is rain water ends up in the storage area behing the stove/IceBox.
and runs down to the port side sitting area cusions.

It must be running in from some un-obvious place but I can't seem to figure it
out.

Ports are sealed up good. There is no deck hardware in the vacinity that
would look to be a problem.

Any of figured this one out?

 

[thecynosure@charter.net]

Leak

Tony, We have an 81 H33 and most likly your leak is coming from the toerail bolts (screws).

You will need a #4 Phillips bit and a friend, do not try to use a #3 tip, it will strip the screw head. If you can't find short #4 tips locally try McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) (P/N 5750A23).

We use a 1/4 wrench to hold the tip and a deep socket on the nuts. using a small flat prybar hooked through the toe rail to hold the screwdriver tip down really helps.

If you need more info contact me. (I probably won't get back to you until the week of the 11th, we are leaving on a trip tomorrow)

 

[Ed Schenck]

Bilge outlet?

You need to follow Joe's advise about the toerail bolts. They are a real pain because they will not stay tightened. You can easily prove that theory by covering the rails, using a hose, and then uncovering.

I had a similar water problem, water coming down behind the stove onto the salon sole. Turned out it was the bilge pump hose where it exited the boat. That thru-hull is high on the hull and the hose had cracked. Most of the water was going out of the boat but some ran down the inside of the hull. On my boat you have to take apart a little box that is inside a cabinet just to see the connection.

Are your chainplates coming through the side deck well sealed?

 

[rardi : H36 ( Cherubini)]

For What Its Worth -- Where Possible Best to Tighten from the Nut Side

Adding to the below suggestions: For What Its Worth -- where its possible to do so, suggest try to tighten by the underneath nut while the other job participant on the deck keeps the screw from turning with the phillips screw driver/bit. Certainly if the toe rail deck joint is the source of the leak, any cinching up the joint, if not fixing it completely, should at least reduce the rate. But also, its best not to disturb whatever sealing function that remains of the orignal calking that seals the up holes between the screws into the fiberglass. On my 1980 H36, using the deep socket as specified by Thecynosure, and a selection of various length socket set extensions, I was able to cinch up most of the toe rail bolts from the nut side.

A couple of determined people should be able to go around both sides easily in a morning or less, so this project is well worth doing. But if you still have problems, check Don Casey's "Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair" for the next but unfortunatly much more involved solultion to toerail/hull/deck joint repairs. Also the book makes suggestions of other common leak points such as around hardware and around the chainplates.

 

[rardi : H36 ( Cherubini)]

A Couple of Other Thoughts - And Anybody Have Problems Around the Clamshell Cover?

Re-reading your post, it occured that I sometimes find moisture on the upper port side storage shelf which is right at the after-end of the accomodation area. This spot is located inside from the interior liner, so hull/deck/toerail joint leak probably isn't the cause. Instead, water seems to be coming from the rasised deck above the accomadation area getting between the deck on the liner and then running down. All my hardware is well bedded and the port frames appear to be well sealed.

I have been planning to remove soon the plastic "clamshell" that covers the sliding companionway to inspect underneath and then reseal the clamshell to deck joint. Another suspect area that that I know is leaking is the wood framing around the companionway entrance, which I will be removing soon to inspect and rebed. In Northern California, the prevailing wind that accompanies 90% of our rain is from the south. My companionway faces south. So wind driven rain is blown into the gap between the clamshell and the sliding hatch and also against the companionway framing.

Any body have problems with leaks originating in these areas?

Also when I purchased my boat (1980 H36) last year, it still had the factory dodger framing installed. I noted that all of the special screws that have the canvas snap retainers on the outside were loose and rattling. I removed my dodger and reamed/filled the holes with epoxy before repainting the deck. So that is potential source of leaks eliminated. (The dodger frame and fittings, all in very good shape, are neatly stored away for a future me or future new owner to re-install if desired.)

 

[Pierre]

I had the identical problem

Hi
I had the identical problem with my 1980 H33 for years, I kept a tray for the water on the port side, found the problem in the screws that mount the front hatch, after I sealed them the problem was gone and never came back. Good luck Pierre S/V Charlotte

 

[Tony Z]

Thanks

Thanks to all of you for your help