Good evening all. With the time change I decided to tackle removing my headliner so I can inspect hardware, run VHF electrical, install a new deck connector, and replace broken port lights. It has taken me about eight hours to remove all side fabrics/plywood and I've loosened the headliner all the way around the edges. I still need to remove the three rows of staples that hold the headliner to the coachroof. It should take me about another hour to remove the headliner.
What I found is some minor leakage around the port lights, especially the two center ones. The coachroof plywood appears to be in good shape with no soft spots and I'll seal all of the edges to a mixture of acetone and epoxy resin before reinstalling the portlights.
I plan on sewing a new headliner using Naugahyde and snapping it into place instead of staples. This will make the structure available when I tackle adding hardware to run my lines aft to the cockpit. I'm planning on installing a snap every 4-6"...Thoughts?
An issue that my fellow Lancer owners may want to tackle is the chainplates and deck hardware is encapsulated in fiberglass, which doesn't lend itself to easy inspection or allowing water to seep away from the stainless steel fittings to evaporate. I haven't yet decided to cut away the fiberglass from the chainplates...the remaining deck hardware is above the tabbed-in bookcases above the stove and icebox. This is more effort than I want to attempt at this time.
BTW...all of the teak trim I'm going to finish using acetone and epoxy resin. My plan is to go sailing and spend less time with keeping up the brightwork. As always I appreciate any suggestions on my approach. Steve
What I found is some minor leakage around the port lights, especially the two center ones. The coachroof plywood appears to be in good shape with no soft spots and I'll seal all of the edges to a mixture of acetone and epoxy resin before reinstalling the portlights.
I plan on sewing a new headliner using Naugahyde and snapping it into place instead of staples. This will make the structure available when I tackle adding hardware to run my lines aft to the cockpit. I'm planning on installing a snap every 4-6"...Thoughts?
An issue that my fellow Lancer owners may want to tackle is the chainplates and deck hardware is encapsulated in fiberglass, which doesn't lend itself to easy inspection or allowing water to seep away from the stainless steel fittings to evaporate. I haven't yet decided to cut away the fiberglass from the chainplates...the remaining deck hardware is above the tabbed-in bookcases above the stove and icebox. This is more effort than I want to attempt at this time.
BTW...all of the teak trim I'm going to finish using acetone and epoxy resin. My plan is to go sailing and spend less time with keeping up the brightwork. As always I appreciate any suggestions on my approach. Steve
