1977 O'Day 25 Window Replacement

[lostintime]

Hi all, Happy Holidays!

Sadly I live in Michigan so "Happy Holidays" means the boat is out of the water.
Anyway, near the end of the season I made an incredible trade. I was able to evenly swap my very clean O'Day 22 for a very clean O'day 25. Wow, you would think a 3 foot difference isn't that much but this is a completely different boat. I'm so HAPPY!!!

So the boat needs some TLC but the hull, deck, transom, rigging and sails are all in great shape.
Here's what she needs:

• All teak sanded and varnished (I have already removed the hand rails and sanded to bare wood, they are awaiting their 3rd coat of varnish now. Don't know how many coats I'll go with, but I'll keep going until they are gorgeous)
• Entire boat rubbed out and waxed
• All outside window trim replaced - cracked and chipped
• Replace windows in head with windows that open
• Bottom job

So here is my question. Anyone know where I can find either the outside window trim or new windows?

 

[Brian S]

Window trim: Call Rudy at D&R Marine, www.drmarine.com
How to polish the boat: http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/tips-for-a-great-buff-wax.117266/
Varnish: 8-10 coats. Or as much as you can stand without going insane. Or, "last coat" +1. (I always seem to get to about 8 coats, lose my mind, and say "This is the last coat!" until the following day when I find a flaw, and wind up doing one more coat to fix the flaw.)

 

[njlarry]

If you need to replace a fixed portlight, search the O'Day forum for "Replace Windows" for details.

 

[lostintime]

Thanks for the help!

 

[25yearslater]

I'm fairly sure the 25 and 27 are using the same windows. Go to D&R for replacements. I got mine from there and I have the information and a few little extras posted here on page 15 and 16. http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/and-so-it-begins.123244/page-15

 

[Brian S]

I used this article to do my windows, but they are fixed surface mount with no frames: http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/ask-sail/replacing-fixed-portlights/

 

[lostintime]

I'm fairly sure the 25 and 27 are using the same windows. Go to D&R for replacements. I got mine from there and I have the information and a few little extras posted here on page 15 and 16. http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/and-so-it-begins.123244/page-15

Thanks, I checked out your pics, the gel coat looks great!! Is that a hard project? I cant tell if my gel coat is worn thin or just very very hard to get back to white. I have tried to rub it out but can't quite get it white. Its like I can see a hint of grey through the gel coat. Don't know if it needs to be rubbed more or if I should stop rubbing. I'll try to take a picture but I don't think it will show what I am actually seeing.

 

[25yearslater]

Oh snap, STOP! Oday used an off white originally. The usual gelcoat thickness is around .032" thick or roughly 1/32". What you may be seeing is the black that was applied after the original color. This is common with boats as old as ours when they have been buffed regularly. I had some areas like you describe. The white was sprayed first then black was sprayed into the mold over it to prevent light from showing through the hull as gelcoat is actually opaque. If this turns out to be the case your options are limited. Paint, Re-gelcoat or ignore it. As far as applying gelcoat it really isn't as horrible as some folks would have you believe. The work is in the finishing. The cost is minimal with gelcoat about 40.00 a gallon which is sufficient to do a 25 foot hull. I also used the Duratech High Gloss Additive and Duratech thinner at 10% for spraying. Gelcoat can be brushed or rolled if overspray is a concern. Use MEKP9 as this is a slow acting catalyst and Duratech must be catalyzed at 2% exactly regardless of temperature. Where the work occurs is the wet sanding after it cures. 400, 600, 800 and 1000 wet or dry and a soft sanding block or sponge are necessary. Then follow Mainsail's tips for a great buff and wax to finish. I used Aquabuff 1000 and 2000 which operate at high wheel speeds but since it doesn't burn it is easy for an amateur to get a super shine. Sounds like you have some work ahead of you but believe me when I say, there is nothing like the looks and compliments you will get when folks see the 'new' old boat. In the end it is a helluva lot cheaper than a high quality paint job which can run into the thousands. Sweat equities finest hour so to speak.

 

[lostintime]

I'm glad you said that (off white). I was trying to figure out why after wheeling out a spot it appeared to have a beige tint. I couldn't tell if there was compound residue or maybe the light was hitting it funny (the boat is currently shrink wrapped for winter, and I'm working under the wrap). I would love to go with a new gel coat but I fear I may give up on the sanding before its done. The whole topside would need to be done and I'm trying to work my way up to about a 37 to 40 foot boat. I don't think I want to put that much work into a boat that I'm ultimately looking to move away from. However that being said the better it looks the more it's worth and strangely enough I LOVE working on my boat.