Hi, I have a chance to purchase a 1976 Catalina 22 project boat with trailer for $2000. The boat has been out of the water for a long time, perhaps a decade. The hull and deck seem sound, but the swing keel looks in really bad shape. I think the front support pin is gone and the steel is really eaten away. Winch is highly questionable too. The mast is fine, most of the fittings, cleats, and rigging have been changed, new mast step, new motor mount, used 9 hp motor included, and a set of sails in average condition. Rudder O.K. Portholes removed and resealed. Electrical system gone but that is easily fixed. Table missing, but most of the seat cushions are fine. Sink and toilet still in boat. Naturally lots of cosmetics.I plan to check the hull and deck "inch by inch" but am most worried about the keel as it appears to be a tough job and likely expensive to repair or replace. Would it be worth it? Thanks. George
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Barry P. Broyles
Keel easy to fix
George: The pivot hole in the keel gets egged out over time. It can be repaired by using a bushing that is pressed or welded into the keel after drilling out the hole to fit. You may also need to replace the Keel Pin. Many of the C22 swing keels look roughbecause of rust but can be cleaned up using a wire brush attachment on a drill or grinder, or or sandblasting. Than you could seal and paint or fair out the keel with fiberglass
George: The pivot hole in the keel gets egged out over time. It can be repaired by using a bushing that is pressed or welded into the keel after drilling out the hole to fit. You may also need to replace the Keel Pin. Many of the C22 swing keels look roughbecause of rust but can be cleaned up using a wire brush attachment on a drill or grinder, or or sandblasting. Than you could seal and paint or fair out the keel with fiberglass
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Dick of Sylvan
Question for Barry
Barry: Is it possible to press in a new bushing into the keel without carting it off to a machine shop? For instance, can one lower the keel onto the supports that you've attached to the trailer, then drill with a hand drill and then pound in the bushing? The keel is so darn heavy that it is difficult to move from trailer to truck. Dick
Barry: Is it possible to press in a new bushing into the keel without carting it off to a machine shop? For instance, can one lower the keel onto the supports that you've attached to the trailer, then drill with a hand drill and then pound in the bushing? The keel is so darn heavy that it is difficult to move from trailer to truck. Dick
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Barry P. Broyles
Answer to Dick of Sylvan
Dick: I have not seen the bushing but from the description I got from my marina it is fairly large, like some where around 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches in diameter. I wiuld imagine that if you had a heavy duty 1/2 inch drill and the proper size hole saw that it could be done. the problem is that it would have to be a tight fit. My marina recommends that it should be welded so I would remove it and take it to a welding shop or machine shop. My keel has an egged out hole and needs to to have the bushing installed but it's been like that for a few years and the boat still sails fine. I have replaced the keel pin and installed the plastic bushings to minimize the sideways movement of the keel. Five years ago the marina said that they could have the keel drilled out, the bushing installed and welded for $80 to $100, I would imagine that it wouldn't cost much more than that now. If you want to remove the keel and take it to a shop you need to start by jacking the boat up off the trailer about 8". To do this you need to use a hydraulic jack ( I use a 2 ton bottle jack)to lift the boat up off the bunk boards than block it up using square pads made from 2X6 or 2X8 lumber. I found that it is easier to jack the aft end up first. This can be done 1 side at a time jacking from the diagonal brace on either side of the trailer, or from centerline using 2 - 4X4 boards laid across the trailer frame ontop of each other. Make sure that when you jack up the boat that you place a square pad made from a short piece of 2X6 or 2X8 lumber between the jack and the hull. For safety as you jack up the boat slide in one pad at a time between the bunk boards and the hull as soon as there is enough room, that way if the jack fails or slips the most the boat can drop is 1 1/2". once the aft is blocked up 8" than jack up the front using a 4X4 across the frame of the trailer right in front or behind the front uprights and jack the boat up on the centerline blocking as you go. The best place to put the blocking pads is right over the fore
Dick: I have not seen the bushing but from the description I got from my marina it is fairly large, like some where around 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches in diameter. I wiuld imagine that if you had a heavy duty 1/2 inch drill and the proper size hole saw that it could be done. the problem is that it would have to be a tight fit. My marina recommends that it should be welded so I would remove it and take it to a welding shop or machine shop. My keel has an egged out hole and needs to to have the bushing installed but it's been like that for a few years and the boat still sails fine. I have replaced the keel pin and installed the plastic bushings to minimize the sideways movement of the keel. Five years ago the marina said that they could have the keel drilled out, the bushing installed and welded for $80 to $100, I would imagine that it wouldn't cost much more than that now. If you want to remove the keel and take it to a shop you need to start by jacking the boat up off the trailer about 8". To do this you need to use a hydraulic jack ( I use a 2 ton bottle jack)to lift the boat up off the bunk boards than block it up using square pads made from 2X6 or 2X8 lumber. I found that it is easier to jack the aft end up first. This can be done 1 side at a time jacking from the diagonal brace on either side of the trailer, or from centerline using 2 - 4X4 boards laid across the trailer frame ontop of each other. Make sure that when you jack up the boat that you place a square pad made from a short piece of 2X6 or 2X8 lumber between the jack and the hull. For safety as you jack up the boat slide in one pad at a time between the bunk boards and the hull as soon as there is enough room, that way if the jack fails or slips the most the boat can drop is 1 1/2". once the aft is blocked up 8" than jack up the front using a 4X4 across the frame of the trailer right in front or behind the front uprights and jack the boat up on the centerline blocking as you go. The best place to put the blocking pads is right over the fore
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Scott K
Sail and Work
A different take... Bought a 1979 project boat. Money was a factor. But the other factor was the ability to sail while I worked. It was basically seaworthy, but needed some work (keel rebuild, new through-hull, battens for the main, inspect/repair some standing rigging). I sat down and wrote a list of everything I wanted to do to the boat - everything. From rebuilding the keel to new curtains on the portholes. After my dream list was finished, I prioritized using safety and seaworthiness as a guide. Then, over the last couple of months, I've knocked out the basics to get the boat in the water (with a few cosmetic fixes to keep a smile on my face!). Now I've got a boat that needs work on the woodwork, new portholes, a new paintjob - but it sails! I've got a nice list of "summer" projects which I will work on while it is in the water and while I sail (take care of scrapes and dings above the water line, for example). Next winter, I'll pull it out and probably paint it. In my particular case, the enjoyment of fixing up the boat is an important part of the whole experience. If you do not anticipate a similar level of enjoyment, then I agree with MG and the others that perhaps you should focus on a boat that is less of a project. Scott P.S. I followed the Catalina Direct video on dropping the keel - not difficult. Of course, you can make it interesting...
A different take... Bought a 1979 project boat. Money was a factor. But the other factor was the ability to sail while I worked. It was basically seaworthy, but needed some work (keel rebuild, new through-hull, battens for the main, inspect/repair some standing rigging). I sat down and wrote a list of everything I wanted to do to the boat - everything. From rebuilding the keel to new curtains on the portholes. After my dream list was finished, I prioritized using safety and seaworthiness as a guide. Then, over the last couple of months, I've knocked out the basics to get the boat in the water (with a few cosmetic fixes to keep a smile on my face!). Now I've got a boat that needs work on the woodwork, new portholes, a new paintjob - but it sails! I've got a nice list of "summer" projects which I will work on while it is in the water and while I sail (take care of scrapes and dings above the water line, for example). Next winter, I'll pull it out and probably paint it. In my particular case, the enjoyment of fixing up the boat is an important part of the whole experience. If you do not anticipate a similar level of enjoyment, then I agree with MG and the others that perhaps you should focus on a boat that is less of a project. Scott P.S. I followed the Catalina Direct video on dropping the keel - not difficult. Of course, you can make it interesting...
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Campy
Bought mine a year ago
Bought mine a year ago, C22 #2226 for $1000 with trailer. Was full of water and stripped of all... ALL hardware. Everything was in a box including the epoxie paint. Redid the hull, keel, topsides, wiring, mast, cockpit scuppers and insides. Sails were fine, motor was 1973 evenrude 6HP, runs like a champ after professional servicing. Wife don't like the smell, says its the cushions, so thats on the got to do it this spring list. Sails like a dream now, even with the smelly cushions. Would do it again, lots of fun, took only two months of grinding and painting and... Now looking to sell this one this year and move to a bigger project boat. Wife needs more room to put her stuff. Campy
Bought mine a year ago, C22 #2226 for $1000 with trailer. Was full of water and stripped of all... ALL hardware. Everything was in a box including the epoxie paint. Redid the hull, keel, topsides, wiring, mast, cockpit scuppers and insides. Sails were fine, motor was 1973 evenrude 6HP, runs like a champ after professional servicing. Wife don't like the smell, says its the cushions, so thats on the got to do it this spring list. Sails like a dream now, even with the smelly cushions. Would do it again, lots of fun, took only two months of grinding and painting and... Now looking to sell this one this year and move to a bigger project boat. Wife needs more room to put her stuff. Campy
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