1974 Catalina 22 topside paint

Oct 22, 2014
23
Hunter 36 MD
here are some more pics posted of the boat deck. I need to get back to the boat to get more close-ups. The previous owner just said to sand it a little to get the flakes off and it should be fine with a coat over it. Based on your advice from above I am starting to think it needs a more thorough job....
is it a swing keel?
 
Oct 22, 2014
23
Hunter 36 MD
I have used all sources available to get parts and ideas on how to improve the C22.. Catalina Direct can be helpful: Bacon Sails.. Just shop shop for prices. Catalina 22.. the internet is a great source. As rpludwig said above welcome to C22 mania :)...

Check your items to keep your boating safe first. I basically rebuilt my 84'.. However, I did not touch the interior except for the electrical wiring. Mine had the gliding sink and alcohol stove which I never restored... it was too far gone and really useless..more of a novelty.
 
Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
nice.. if you have not seen it.. take a look at it and inspect it.. I can give you some advice and pictures if you would like.
I already bought the boat. I am just trying to get an idea of the work I need to do to it in the spring. I am currently still using the boat since I just bought it and there is still a month or so left in the season
 
Oct 22, 2014
23
Hunter 36 MD
I already bought the boat. I am just trying to get an idea of the work I need to do to it in the spring. I am currently still using the boat since I just bought it and there is still a month or so left in the season
yep.. understood.. i was there too.. :) have a great rest of the season!!
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,771
- -- -Bayfield
First of all, the "top sides" means the hull sides above the waterline and not the deck. Based on the photos, hardware removal comments, etc., I assume you mean the deck. Set the nonskid aside for now. You need to sand everything smooth so it is completely "frosty" in appearance (no shiny surface) and not just sand the "chips" on the smooth parts of your deck. You should clean the deck to make sure all waxes are off, so you are not sanding wax into your sanding grooves. The sanding of the deck not only smooths it out, but it gives the next coat of paint a "tooth" to attach itself. If there are shiny spots, then that is where the paint will chip off later on because of poor adhesion. Next you need to apply a primer for whatever paint you choose to finish with. The primer will more so help with the adhesion of the top coat paint you choose. Then you apply the color of the paint compatible with the primer. If you apply a really smooth coat of primer, there will most likely be a window when you can paint over the primer without sanding. But, if your primer surface is rough, then you need to let it cure and then sand it smooth (but not off) before applying the top coat color. When painting, two or more thin coats is better than one thick coat. Technique will vary upon whether you are rolling/brushing on the paint or spraying it on. Paint selection has to do with color choice (you said white, so most any paint will have white). There are one part paints that are cheaper (like Interlux Brightside) or two part paints (like Interlux Perfection or Awlgrip/Awlclear). The latter are linear polyurethane paints and the Awlgrip product is used by pros. Whatever you choose, read the instructions on the label carefully and stick with recommended products.
 
Jun 9, 2008
1,771
- -- -Bayfield
I forgot the nonskid. There are a number of nonskid paints available, like Interlux Interdeck, which is premixed with the grit in a flat paint application (not shiny). You don't want to apply a shiny paint - even if it has grit in it - to a deck as the shiny part, when wet, will still be slippery. So get a paint like Interdeck, Kiwi Grip, or something already mixed, or add a flattening agent to your shiny paint to make it not shiny so it is safe underfoot.
 
Mar 1, 2012
2,182
1961 Rhodes Meridian 25 Texas coast
Gonna be a curmudgeon here- You don't walk on topsides on a boat- The topsides is from deck edge to waterline. You walk on decks :)

Congratulations on the boat
 
Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
First of all, the "top sides" means the hull sides above the waterline and not the deck. Based on the photos, hardware removal comments, etc., I assume you mean the deck. Set the nonskid aside for now. You need to sand everything smooth so it is completely "frosty" in appearance (no shiny surface) and not just sand the "chips" on the smooth parts of your deck. You should clean the deck to make sure all waxes are off, so you are not sanding wax into your sanding grooves. The sanding of the deck not only smooths it out, but it gives the next coat of paint a "tooth" to attach itself. If there are shiny spots, then that is where the paint will chip off later on because of poor adhesion. Next you need to apply a primer for whatever paint you choose to finish with. The primer will more so help with the adhesion of the top coat paint you choose. Then you apply the color of the paint compatible with the primer. If you apply a really smooth coat of primer, there will most likely be a window when you can paint over the primer without sanding. But, if your primer surface is rough, then you need to let it cure and then sand it smooth (but not off) before applying the top coat color. When painting, two or more thin coats is better than one thick coat. Technique will vary upon whether you are rolling/brushing on the paint or spraying it on. Paint selection has to do with color choice (you said white, so most any paint will have white). There are one part paints that are cheaper (like Interlux Brightside) or two part paints (like Interlux Perfection or Awlgrip/Awlclear). The latter are linear polyurethane paints and the Awlgrip product is used by pros. Whatever you choose, read the instructions on the label carefully and stick with recommended products.
Thanks for all the tips on painting the DECK of the boat! Also, thanks for correction of vocab so we are all talking about the same thing.
 
Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
I forgot the nonskid. There are a number of nonskid paints available, like Interlux Interdeck, which is premixed with the grit in a flat paint application (not shiny). You don't want to apply a shiny paint - even if it has grit in it - to a deck as the shiny part, when wet, will still be slippery. So get a paint like Interdeck, Kiwi Grip, or something already mixed, or add a flattening agent to your shiny paint to make it not shiny so it is safe underfoot.
Would one just paint the whole deck with non-skid paint? Or only the textured portions of the deck?
 
Oct 22, 2014
23
Hunter 36 MD
Thanks for all the tips on painting the DECK of the boat! Also, thanks for correction of vocab so we are all talking about the same thing.
Definition from Jamestown distributors: Topside paint refers to the finish applied on a boat's upper hull and deck areas and always above the waterline. Topside painting is done above the waterline to protect your boat from the sea, sun, and sand.
 
Sep 22, 2019
118
Chrysler 26 Pymatuning Lake
Hi everyone. Thank you for your advice. I took some close-up shots of the deck to get more feedback. It looks like the deck was painted with normal marine paint across the whole deck. A nin-skid surface was adhered to the deck and the normal paint was painted over it. Please take a look at the photos. I am still trying to come to a conclusion on how I want to paint the deck in the spring.
 

Attachments

Oct 6, 2018
113
Watkins 25 Seawolf Dunnellon / Crystal River
Unfortunately, that all has to be removed. Sand down to smooth gelcoat and start over. There are many ways to apply new non-skid. Kiwi Grip and Soft Sand are two that come to mind that yield good results.
 
Oct 22, 2014
23
Hunter 36 MD
This is where you begin learning about boats.. :) I did... When you say 'normal marine' paint.. what does that mean?...looks like they used the wrong paint type. Looks like It will have to be removed to do it correctly. I think you'll need to know what paint was used.. looks like 1 part and didn't prep the gel coat correctly. You should consult a professional.. any marine paint manufacture has a technical support line that could help confirm your approach. Also, get/borrow and moisture meter and check the deck.. and whole boat. ..look for soft/spongy spots around your chain-plates and through hulls. As I suggested with the handle of a screw driver and get those repaired. The C-22's are fairly easy to see whats going on the back sides of those mountings when you get inside the boat. There are Lots of youtube video's on this stuff. My first thought is to look into 'Soda blasting'. If you are handy you can do that yourself. It will require setting up an area where you can work. I would not worry about any fine pitting that might cause (if that is a concern) the primers and 2 part paints will fill those in. ALSO, Once again sorry to sound like a broken record... but you'll need to inspect your swing keel and the pivot point.. that's 450+ lbs of dense iron/lead hanging on a hole within 2" of the edge of the keel. If that breaks loose while sailing that will make of a very very VERY bad day. It's no east task to drop that either. Unless you have a friend with a sling and the means to lower and raise a very dense 450+ lb slab of iron/lead it will cost you to raise and drop it. ( maybe $225 a each time) Plus the cost, time to fix it.. you can do it yourself.. I did ..but it took and engine lift, a hydraulic scissor table lift (500 lbs capacity) and I built a jig to hold it.. I have pictures to share when you get to that point.